Wannabe Posted December 31, 2016 Report Share Posted December 31, 2016 When I get ready to solder my terminals should I crimp them first then do the soldering? i have a hammer crimper I can just give it a good whack? the wires I'm planning on doing this with are for big 3 this is my first build, i have been waiting 4-5 years to have this done 95 chevy 2 door tahoe 5.7 Xs power d3400 Singer 275amp alternator Big 3 - all Knukonceptz Kolossus Fleks 0ga/ knu Fuses an holders Sundown SAE-1500d Mbquart onyx OA800.4 Stinger 4400 series RCAs and stinger volt meter Fi Q NEO 18, 7.5 cubes tuned 32hz Pioneer MVH-X690BS H/U Kicker CSS 6.5 comp sets in front doors Kicker KSC 4x10 coaxials in rear GTMAT and FAT MAT deadner Xenon 10k Blue HIDs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldsoundguy Posted December 31, 2016 Report Share Posted December 31, 2016 From the videos I have watched guys put a little flux in the lug and on the end of the wire. Insert it into the lug and hammer crimp it. Then they heat it up and drop some solder into it. That is going to be the way I do my new lugs when I swap out my 4 gauge for a run of 1/0 to my new rear battery. 80prs Arc Audio Xdi 1200.6 (using active crossovers) Freaking awesome amplifier Incriminator IA 10.1 Focal PS 130v 5.25 (doors) 4" Faital pro Neo (kick panels) 3" Faital pro Neo and focal tweets( dash) DC Audio level 3 12" custom box designed by joex built by me AGM front, XS 750SE batteries rear DC 180 alt 99 Toyota Tacoma extra cab http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/179476-my-small-build-turned-into-the-ongoing-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wannabe Posted December 31, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2016 Ok that is what I was thinking cause I didn't think they don't crimp at all I already ordered my torch and a vice and I already have a crimper this is my first build, i have been waiting 4-5 years to have this done 95 chevy 2 door tahoe 5.7 Xs power d3400 Singer 275amp alternator Big 3 - all Knukonceptz Kolossus Fleks 0ga/ knu Fuses an holders Sundown SAE-1500d Mbquart onyx OA800.4 Stinger 4400 series RCAs and stinger volt meter Fi Q NEO 18, 7.5 cubes tuned 32hz Pioneer MVH-X690BS H/U Kicker CSS 6.5 comp sets in front doors Kicker KSC 4x10 coaxials in rear GTMAT and FAT MAT deadner Xenon 10k Blue HIDs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShadeTreeMechanic Posted December 31, 2016 Report Share Posted December 31, 2016 I used to solider my lugs. Then I bought a $40 hydraulic crimper on ebay and its all I use now. Makes quick work if you have a bunch to do. I use adhesive lined heat shrink too. 91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco) 250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon) G65 AGM Up Front / Two G31 AGM in Back Pioneer 80PRS CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon) Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skullz Posted December 31, 2016 Report Share Posted December 31, 2016 I always crimp the terminal first then solder to tin and fill it, as i use the open face terminals 01 Ford focus ZX3 Pioneer AVH-X491BHS PPI PC 4800.2 Morel Maximo 6.5" x2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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