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Dual Battery System for my Bronco


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I also saw a guy in a video that had a terminal adapter, it was a set of 3, one for power, blue wire, and ground.  It basically increased the size cable you could run right to the amp from 4 gauge up to 0 gauge.

I have been looking for it, but maybe I dont know what to look for or what its called. or a brand to look for.  I looked on the Stinger website and I didnt see anything but singles.

 

SPT521.jpg

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91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco)

250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon)

G65 AGM Up Front  / Two G31 AGM in Back

Pioneer 80PRS

CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage

CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill

FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon)

Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon)

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Taking all of the suggestions so far into consideration, I have come up with this new plan.  It is more streamlined, less expensive, has fewer connections, shorter cable runs and provides more power to the rear Distribution Block.  I am choosing NOT to move the battery to the rear of the vehicle at this time, other than that, I think this may be alot better than my initial design.

Dual%20Battery%20Parallel.jpg

 

So looking at this, Im running the charging circuit to the top posts and the Aux Power circuit to the Side posts.  I dont think it makes any real difference, but It makes the wiring neater and allows me to retain my #1 AWG Battery cables I already have made which should be fine for the charging circuit.

I will go with 1/0 from the side posts all the way to the rear amps.  Im still a bit cloudy on fuse sizing, but I will get there at some point.

Does this look better?

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Its a 4x4, at some point im going to add a few lights, maybe a winch.  So I wanted to be able to switch the batteries in case one gets too low to start the vehicle.  the other added thing is the switch has a key lock, so when I park it for a while and its un-used i can turn it to OFF and lock it out to prevent theft.  Of course I will wire my alarm directly to the battery so it will still be on all the time even though the rest of the truck will be locked out of power.   

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If you are going to do that for security, I would only lock the starter out, or at least find a way to keep constant power to the headunit. Are you planning on using the winch and lights without running the engine? 

 

F150:

Stock :(

 

2019 Harley Road Glide:

Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt

Processor: DSR1

Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx

Lid (Rear) 6x9s -  TMS69

 

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How are you going to switch from one battery to the other when they are in parallel?

91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco)

250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon)

G65 AGM Up Front  / Two G31 AGM in Back

Pioneer 80PRS

CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage

CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill

FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon)

Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon)

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