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33 minutes ago, reedal said:

Sometimes when you don't have a ground that connects back to the same point the source is grounded, you can get a turn-on/off pop. Having all chassis grounds provides all the same ground location (even if different locations on the chassis), and the chassis is a much better ground than the body due to its thickness.

Its a unibody, there is no chassis.

I still agree that you should choose a better grounding point though.

Preferably a run straight to the battery, 

Doing so still may not remedy your turn on pop but its a good starting point.

That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals.

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1 hour ago, Broke_Audio_Addict said:

Its a unibody, there is no chassis.

I still agree that you should choose a better grounding point though.

Preferably a run straight to the battery, 

Doing so still may not remedy your turn on pop but its a good starting point.

I've only ever had chassis vehicles. I always forget not everyone has it

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10 hours ago, reedal said:

I've only ever had chassis vehicles. I always forget not everyone has it

So basically I just have to mess with my grounds. Ground the amp to a better place, which where you'd you guys suggest since it is a unibody, and second trace the radio ground and ground it to wherever I ground my amp. 

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23 hours ago, NathanH said:

So basically I just have to mess with my grounds. Ground the amp to a better place, which where you'd you guys suggest since it is a unibody, and second trace the radio ground and ground it to wherever I ground my amp. 

You can run a ground straight from amp to battery, or from battery to distribution block to amp, or you can look through the forum to see where other people have grounded with the same car. Best bet is going to be one of the first two I said though. My recommendation would be the distribution block, in case you get a hankering to add more equipment requiring grounds, in which case I'd make the run from battery to distribution block 1/0 or larger

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On 7/4/2017 at 9:40 AM, reedal said:

You can run a ground straight from amp to battery, or from battery to distribution block to amp, or you can look through the forum to see where other people have grounded with the same car. Best bet is going to be one of the first two I said though. My recommendation would be the distribution block, in case you get a hankering to add more equipment requiring grounds, in which case I'd make the run from battery to distribution block 1/0 or larger

When I get some money I'll buy some 1/0 and do that but for now I made it less noticeable somehow or it might just be me. Anyway the guy to who owned it before my had a thousand watt bass amp in there and when he sold it to me he took all the wires except the ground wire, so I took it soldered some more onto it so it wiould reach my amp so now I have to grounds. Also I added another wire, 6 gauge, from my battery to the body and cleaned the original connection. I mean Honda attached it to a painted surface on the fender. Somewhere in there it seemed to make it quieter/ a little less noticeable.  Thank you man for being so helpful. I really appreciate it. 

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