SanDiegoSlapper Posted April 3, 2018 Report Share Posted April 3, 2018 probably another annoying dumb voltage drop question but i honestly thought going to a 220a alt would be enough so im suspecting something else maybe current setup is a Yellow top battery in a 2005 yukon, 220a alt. big 3 in all 1/0 ofc. running a CAB 1600.1 amp on 2 skar zvx 15's at 1ohm. gains set using an o-scope. when at idle i get 13.8-14v and at 2k i get 14.2-14.5. now i know i should be expect atleast some voltage drop, but i cant even get my amp control knob past 35-40% even when im on the freeway. it EASILY dips in to the 10v range. not sure if its normal or not too, but my voltage is MUCH more on 40+ hz notes. if its a pure 30's song i can get my knob to say 50%. i know a second batter would be suggested, and is coming very soon, but im feeling like theres something else going on here. maybe my grounds are bad?. i cant imagine a 220a alternator having troubles pushing a 1600rms watt amp. in yalls opinion, how much do you think a 1/0 ground cable strait from alternator to cabin and a secondary battery really going to help? the weirdest part of all, is ive noticed this issue can be slightly intermittent. some times its just shitty, other times really bad. but the other day i got on the freeway and start getting the knob turned up while keeping my eye on the voltage gauge (i have wired at the amp) as usual, but this time there was MINIMAL voltage drop, got the knob to about 75% while still holding 12.8+ volts. one of the subs is brand new tho so i didnt want to turn it up any more as i want to properly break her in. it stayed the way for pretty much the rest of my 40 min drive. until the next time i drove it and it went back to shitty voltage drop. now before someone says "theres different recorded db levels", this was music i was playing from the same dj i listen to 75% of my time in the car (dj russticals), so just to knock that out of the equation. after this night i was really like "what the fuck" cause i saw the potential of my current electrical system, but something is obviously off here. and i just cant figure it out. thanks in advance to anyone who was willing to read this heap of garbage, and even bigger thanks to anyone willing to help me out XD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bcbrassard Posted April 3, 2018 Report Share Posted April 3, 2018 What is the brand of the ALT? Check grounds? Better Battery or add another battery. It does rated power on the dyno but there not showing current draw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
03 Xtreme Fosgate Posted June 14, 2018 Report Share Posted June 14, 2018 Sounds like a bad ground problem IMO. But also what brand is your alt? As bcbrassard said. BUILD LOG-http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/179004-03-s10-xtreme-ext-cab-rf-build/ PHOTOBUCKET- http://s1354.beta.photobucket.com/user/03XtremeFosgate/library/truck%20audio%20rebuild Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Masterbasser Posted June 14, 2018 Report Share Posted June 14, 2018 check grounds be sure they are secured tightly and sand any paint away from ground connection point, alt brand is important some ebay alts are just garbage. sounds like wiring issue or heavy clipping Kenwood excelon ddx795 3 370 amp CES alternators (audio side only) McLaren dome tweeters Crescendo 6.5 ultra neos NVX JAD800.4 4 PA x4 SPL 18's 4 Digital Designs m5's at .7 ohms each 2 K2 80 ah lithiums 3 group 31 agms Ledglow million color (12 piece) 2007 Yukon xl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Th3pwn3r Posted November 2, 2018 Report Share Posted November 2, 2018 For anyone who comes across this, this was definitely a wiring issue. No way the battery or alternator should both drop down that low in voltage. My alt did something similar when the brushes weren't engaging. I still never got into the 10 volt range. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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