AMP for 3 FI Audio X series 10"

[Karkov]

From the site...

The X Series of subwoofers is our all around daily sub. We offer the BP option (a machined compression plug), for increased cooling and higher thermal powerhandling. A multilayer foam surround is attached to a fiber impregnated kraft pulp cone which helps keep things under control in high power applications. A 3″ 4 layer aluminum voice coil yields 20mm of Xmax while keeping the motor force high. The X series will work in most enclosure types (sealed, ported, bandpass). Light weight and versatile, the X Series works in a variety of applications from incredibly detailed sound quality systems, to ground pounding multi sub monsters. It comes standard with a white Fi logo on a rigid pressed kraft cap with the option of our hard dustcap and choice of colored Fi logos.

 

BP: “BP” option which was a machined aluminum compression plug to the pole which helps channel all of the air under the dustcap around the coil for better cooling. To aid with this increased airflow we also added 6 axial cooling channels in the top plate. Along with increased thermal capacity comes the addition of an extra spider and a changed spider pack. All of these features increase power handling from 200-500 Watts depending on the application.

Features

X10 DUAL 2 | DUAL 4 Fs: 32.5 Hz | 32.5 Hz Re: 1.4 Ohms/coil | 2.8 Ohms/coil Qms: 6.01 | 6.01 Qes: .48 | .48 Qts: .44 | .44 Mms: 162g | 162g Cms: 0.00mm/N | 0.00mm/N Sd: 310cm^2 | 310cm^2 Vas: 19.66 l | 19.66 l Spl: 83.3dB 1W/1m | 83.3dB 1W/1m Bl: 14.01 N/A | 19.81 N/A Xmax: 20mm Rms: 750W Sealed box: .2-.4 cuft Ported box: .6-1.2 cuft @ 33Hz Sub OD: 11.000” Cut ID: 9.250” Mounting depth: 6.000” Displacement: 0.07cuft   X Series: 10”, 12”, and 15″ Dual 2 and Dual 4 Ohm Cast basket Wrap around gasket Kraft pulp fiber reinforced cone Single layer wide foam surround Push terminals Extra heavy lead wire FEA optimized motor 3” diameter 4 layer coil Single high grade magnet Triple progressive spiders Optional BP Cooling

[crownvictoria31]

13 hours ago, 06RTCharger said:

Damn thats a lot of trunk lol. I would think firing ur subs and port into that huge empty trunk would kinna diminish some of the bass for the cabin area. Looks super clean tho! 

Unfortunally that's not an option as I have a fiberglass rear deck

 

[crownvictoria31]

16 hours ago, Hellbilly429 said:

If you throw 2250 watts (750 per sub) at those subs in that current box, you will not have enough port area to produce the results you are looking for, and will most likely cause a chuffing noise from the ports. Actually, right now you are on the low side for port area at 1200 watts, which could be causing some of your output issues.

Triticum's Port Area Calculator recommends a minimum port area of 34 square inches with Aero Ports for your current setup with 1200 watts (assuming you are tuned around 35hz) and a  minimum of 47 square inches with Aero Ports for your setup with 2250 watts being pushed to the subs. You are currently running 25.12 square inches of port area. 2 6 inch ports would get you to 56.52 square inches of port area, which would get you closer to optimum port area for that 2250 watts. The problem is that requires a length of 35 inches per port to accomplish 35hz tuning, so it is unrealistic for your box with that much power going to it. Adding a 3rd 4 inch port with your current 1200 watts would get you above the minimum 34 square inches of port area, but the ports would need to be 22 inches long each to be tuned to 35hz.

I get that those subs can handle more power, and we all love and support more power, but I just want you to take into consideration that box modifications would also help improve your performance.

heres another picture of the box

[Hellbilly429]

Ah, those aren't aero ports? If you're not having issues now, maybe get some flared ends to throw on those ports to help allow more air flow and reduce port velocity.

[crownvictoria31]

34 minutes ago, Hellbilly429 said:

Ah, those aren't aero ports? If you're not having issues now, maybe get some flared ends to throw on those ports to help allow more air flow and reduce port velocity.

Im alittle new to this box build part. I dont seem to be having issues but it wont hurt to try the aero ports.  Any recommandations on length of the aero ports?

[Hellbilly429]

Depends on what you want to tune to. If tuned to the 33hz that is recommended, you would need 18.8 inches 

[crownvictoria31]

53 minutes ago, Hellbilly429 said:

Depends on what you want to tune to. If tuned to the 33hz that is recommended, you would need 18.8 inches 

So how do i do this? Remove the pvc pipes and add the aero ports? Any diagram on this or pictures?

 

[Hellbilly429]

Not sure of your dimensions. Check out psp site. Aero ports take into effect the length of the flare into the total length of the port, so the ports are physically like 11" long but actually 17" long as usable port length. You would need an elbow in that box by the looks of it to get to the length you would need. Check out precision port website if you want more info. If you were willing to redo the whole box, you could get away with a single big ass port. Really, it comes down to your personal preference and making sure you watch those subs in action on more power and make sure you shut them down when you smell coils getting too hot (not that that is best practice.) If you want more dbs, make the box more efficient along with the added power, and you will come out with better results.

[crownvictoria31]

So i just purchased a Wolfram Audio C-2400.1. Now i play the wait game. Mean time, i will upgrade my battery with a xs power d6500 under the hood and i should be good to go.