ehall8702 Posted January 21, 2019 Report Share Posted January 21, 2019 been looking for software or a calculator to design 6th order fro my xfl. this is what I found, http://dbdynamixaudio.com/on-axis-6th-order-parallel-bandpass-enclosure-calculator/ I know the re calculator is flawed, anyone know anything about this one? I'm not even sure what I'm supposed to be inputting besides driver specs and external dimensions. I don't even see a place to enter woofer diameter! 2009 Silverado 1500, 7.5" lift, 37x12.50r17s, Built Gen 4 5.3L ( 4.8l flat pistons, decked 243s, SS2 Cam, Pac 1218 springs, ported intake, 120mm TB, Long tubes, 3" duals HP tuner software tuned by me), 4l80e swapped and 4.56 gears. All done by me. stereo is Pioneer avh 600ex, all stinger rca, jp23 v1.5, skar rp150.4, and hertz hpd4. 2 SHCA 6.5 8ohm, 1 SHCA 3.5", and 1 DS18 tw120pro in each door. The 3.5 mid and 3.5" tweeters are powered by the skar rp150.4, the 6.5s are powered by the hertz bridged @4 ohms. Dual runs of 3/0 welding cable, 300a alternator, 2 Vmax AGMs up front. current sub is a AB XR 12 ( dual 2 ohm) with bottom spider cut out in 2.25 cubes at 32hz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triticum Agricolam Posted January 21, 2019 Report Share Posted January 21, 2019 WinISD can model parallel-tuned 6th orders, BassBoxPro and HornResp can model parallel-tuned and series-tuned 6th orders. What is you reason for wanting a 6th order in the first place? "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehall8702 Posted January 21, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2019 Something different for one, can have two peaks so maybe a 60-70hz and a lower peak like 30ish maybe. Figured id get more output out of a single sub that way also. I like my slot ports but its something everyone has ya know? Any reason i shouldnt attempt a 6th order? Should i be after a 4th or just sticking to my slot port? Id love to try a t-line bur am totally lost on that front. All input or advice is considered, i just wanna do something different with as much output as possible. 2009 Silverado 1500, 7.5" lift, 37x12.50r17s, Built Gen 4 5.3L ( 4.8l flat pistons, decked 243s, SS2 Cam, Pac 1218 springs, ported intake, 120mm TB, Long tubes, 3" duals HP tuner software tuned by me), 4l80e swapped and 4.56 gears. All done by me. stereo is Pioneer avh 600ex, all stinger rca, jp23 v1.5, skar rp150.4, and hertz hpd4. 2 SHCA 6.5 8ohm, 1 SHCA 3.5", and 1 DS18 tw120pro in each door. The 3.5 mid and 3.5" tweeters are powered by the skar rp150.4, the 6.5s are powered by the hertz bridged @4 ohms. Dual runs of 3/0 welding cable, 300a alternator, 2 Vmax AGMs up front. current sub is a AB XR 12 ( dual 2 ohm) with bottom spider cut out in 2.25 cubes at 32hz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe X Posted January 21, 2019 Report Share Posted January 21, 2019 Well bandpass boxes are way less error tolerant than ported or sealed that be on the design or building phase so it's rather easy to get bad results, the other thing is that bandpass boxes will not provide meaningful output above the range for what they are designed for so usually 60-90Hz they have low output, this forces you to have a good mid-bass stage, with ported you are only limited by your LPF setting and that's way easier. Bandpass boxes can work if you don't mind the troubles along the way, for new users or if you are not needing the specific benefits they can offer I just wouldn't recommend them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehall8702 Posted January 21, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2019 I have a strong mid stage and will have my 6.5" subs that should pick up the 70-120hz hole i may end up with. I definantly need a design thats going to work though and be better than a slot port or it wont be worth it. My buddy is a lifetime finish carpenter so contruction is aleays flawless IF the plans are correct lol. In the end is it worth even bothering with a 6th order? Will there be significant output gains? Will it be able to keep clean output while im double my subs rms wattage? I CAN dial my amp back but who ever wants to do that. Then the question is am i still gaining output that way? 2009 Silverado 1500, 7.5" lift, 37x12.50r17s, Built Gen 4 5.3L ( 4.8l flat pistons, decked 243s, SS2 Cam, Pac 1218 springs, ported intake, 120mm TB, Long tubes, 3" duals HP tuner software tuned by me), 4l80e swapped and 4.56 gears. All done by me. stereo is Pioneer avh 600ex, all stinger rca, jp23 v1.5, skar rp150.4, and hertz hpd4. 2 SHCA 6.5 8ohm, 1 SHCA 3.5", and 1 DS18 tw120pro in each door. The 3.5 mid and 3.5" tweeters are powered by the skar rp150.4, the 6.5s are powered by the hertz bridged @4 ohms. Dual runs of 3/0 welding cable, 300a alternator, 2 Vmax AGMs up front. current sub is a AB XR 12 ( dual 2 ohm) with bottom spider cut out in 2.25 cubes at 32hz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe X Posted January 22, 2019 Report Share Posted January 22, 2019 A very efficient ported box can be very efficient around tuning, a very efficient 6th order box can be efficient over a wider range of frequencies and you can control to some extent what those frequencies will be, but it's not like a bandpass can be twice as loud or 10 times as loud as a ported box just because it's a bandpass box. The simplest way to get loud is cone area, a single 12" for a blazer is a little thing to have, a single 15 won''t take a single extra watt and will be about 2-3 dB louder than the 12". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehall8702 Posted January 22, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2019 Already saving for a 15, either an xfl or a hd just dont have the cash yet. Migrating the 12 to my girls yukon when i do get a 15 tho. Thanx for the clarification joe x, not really worth my efforts with the 12, just keep what i got till i get a new sub. 2009 Silverado 1500, 7.5" lift, 37x12.50r17s, Built Gen 4 5.3L ( 4.8l flat pistons, decked 243s, SS2 Cam, Pac 1218 springs, ported intake, 120mm TB, Long tubes, 3" duals HP tuner software tuned by me), 4l80e swapped and 4.56 gears. All done by me. stereo is Pioneer avh 600ex, all stinger rca, jp23 v1.5, skar rp150.4, and hertz hpd4. 2 SHCA 6.5 8ohm, 1 SHCA 3.5", and 1 DS18 tw120pro in each door. The 3.5 mid and 3.5" tweeters are powered by the skar rp150.4, the 6.5s are powered by the hertz bridged @4 ohms. Dual runs of 3/0 welding cable, 300a alternator, 2 Vmax AGMs up front. current sub is a AB XR 12 ( dual 2 ohm) with bottom spider cut out in 2.25 cubes at 32hz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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