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Dragonsyph

Sound deadener that won’t break the bank.

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On 2/23/2019 at 8:47 AM, Dragonsyph said:

 

I also read you need to tape all the seams or the butyl can ooze out?? Any tape work or so I need special stuff?

 

The products that ooze are asphalt and tar filled products (and at least 70% of the brands fall under this category).....real butyl does not ooze, melt, peel off, or fail. 


Whether you are restoring a classic muscle car, building an audio system monster, or trying to give yourself a bit of silent luxury on your daily commute, we have a product or combination of products that will help you achieve your goals while saving money and save time. Look around our site, educate yourself and make the choice that is right for you.

Over built to over perform - because user error, bad batch, and faulty install are excuses that other companies use!

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On 2/23/2019 at 2:43 PM, Dragonsyph said:

Ok cool, thanks again everyone.  I’ll def save up to get the better stuff.  And some alumni tape, and one of this rollers. 

 

Anyone have any input on where the best spot is to start putting this stuff?  Head liner above sub? Back door,  floor below box?

Outer door skins are a great place to start depending on they are constructed. but it depends on your build goals as to where to use it. If you have subs in the trunk, then the trunk will be a great place to start. 60% coverage on large flimsy metal and 40% coverage on bent/welded metals will get you great results. 

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Whether you are restoring a classic muscle car, building an audio system monster, or trying to give yourself a bit of silent luxury on your daily commute, we have a product or combination of products that will help you achieve your goals while saving money and save time. Look around our site, educate yourself and make the choice that is right for you.

Over built to over perform - because user error, bad batch, and faulty install are excuses that other companies use!

Second_Skin_Tri_Color__65247.1490223215.

secondskin_468x60.gif

 

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Thanks, guys, I really love all the help and tips.  Start where it rattles is a good idea but I wanted to do the matting before I even put the sub box in the back.

I'll just get the 36sq for now and start from back to front and see where it gets me. 

 

This is why I like this site over all others, I always get good and speedy responses from a lot of people who love to help.

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Sundown NSV4 18"  +  Orion 5000.1dV2

MechMan Elite 370a  +  XS3100 - XP3000

SHCA 1/0 OFC(blue+  SMD Fuse Holders(blue)

Pioneer AVH-2440NEX  SHCA Pro RCA 

 

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Give yourself plenty of time to do it right the first time by....

Removing all interior

Cleaning & prepping for deadening

Deadening and rolling out properly so the best bond happens and the product gets its max efficiency intended.

Maybe gloves if you have girly hands.

Good luck  deadening can be hard work, cramped up in a trunk, in a weird spot. Hours of it at a time. I love it, totally get into it. You just get into zone, it such an important step when building a system that it's exciting. Knowing your killing from the start. Lots of people have equipment how many have total systems and designing.in there vehicles down to the metal and acoustical control. 

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SINGER 200 amp HO ALT

Big 5 0 AWG-RF Wiring

Optima Blue top-under hood

Kenetic HC 600 under hood

2 Kenetic HC1800 in trunk

Stinger VM

DEH-80PRS HU

RF P3 8" mid-bass in custom kick Panels

RF T265 comps x2 in custom door panels

RF T165 comps in Rear Doors

2 SQ HDS310snin a JOE X designed box

RF T400-4 ( x 2 )

RF T400-2

RF Power T1500bdcp.

All RF & SHCA OFC  0,4,8,12 wiring.

Fuse's from SMD & RF.

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