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Everything posted by Dragonsyph

  1. Hmmm my 1080 ti sli has worked in all most all games iv tried, and most of the time I get 50-90% scaling.
  2. Was a bad ass audiobahn 1200 watt amp that had chrome flames in the out side with 2 fans and a voltage meter right in the amp, was pretty awesome amp in terms of looks. Looked like this, I can’t remember what model I had. And the one I had had cobalt blue illumination. Was truly beautiful.
  3. Aww ok, not sure what it could be. I have had two amps go out and before they did they were sending a dirty signal that made the sub sound like it was rattling at low volume. Hope you figure it out because that shit is annoying.
  4. Put old alt in and the problem went away, so it has to be the Mechman alt. It even idles smoother. Gonna be sending it in here soon. If it was the battery's it would do it with any alt right?
  5. Ill try that out then, Mechman said i can send it and and they will take a look at it because it wont even put out rated voltage of 14.9, it barly can keep it at 14.5......... Ill try it with the d3100 then try it with the d3400 and see if theres a differance. ANd im gonna swap to stock alt and see if it stops too.
  6. Ya i put a brand new belt and it still does it, iv sent mechman messages and they dont respond.
  7. It’s all good I’m thankful for all the input.
  8. Wondering why though it’s only out putting 14.5 instead of 14.8. I can also see if I rev it up then let the Rpms drop back to idle I can see a voltage drop into the 13s for a second.
  9. Grounds are good, I might try a new belt and see if that helps, at this point I’m lost.
  10. My head lights, dash lights, instrument cluster lights all flicker at idle and my voltage read out only hits 14.5 now instead of 14.8. it only does this at idle, no amp in the car so no stereo playing while it’s happening. voltage gauge I dash goes up and down also with the flickering. is the alternator going bad?? it didn’t do this for the first 5 months or so I had it. 370 elite in an 05 tahoe and it has 1 wire that goes to acc power.
  11. Just make sure if you change any setting in ur deck and I mean any setting to recheck rca out distortion. I had all mine set and unhooked the battery’s to work on wiring upgrades and for some reason it reset all my setting in my deck which has never happened before. I ended up blowing a coil because time alignment got turned in by default and caused me to clip at volume 32 and I had it set to 40 going full blast. So 8 past clipping lol. 250 dollar mistake I will never do again, I almost cried when it happened. Now at any high volume it makes a loud ping sound, and if you push down on the dust cap you can hear it rubbing on something. Glade a drop in kit for an NSV4 is only 250 when the sub cost 1150 dollars.
  12. Shredder has been helping me out a ton through emails, was just easier that way then to come on here. He’s also the one who designed my bad ass box.
  13. For sure, and a nice 4 channel and set of speakers don’t cost to much. Def my next thing to buy, maybe some more dyno matting.
  14. Can you use the dd1 in music and get a good reading of distortion? Or is music not valid for the dd1 , like if it says track 1 on cd don’t distort tell 40 but playing a music cd I’ll get distortion readings low as 30 from dd1. Are those readings valid??
  15. Using the dd1 through rca and through amp speaker out puts with gain at 0 using track 1 it shows no distortion light all the way up to max volume which is 40. If i play music at anything above 35 though you hear extreme distortion in all the door speakers. Is there something I’m doing wrong or are speaker outnputs and rca out puts different?!
  16. It should work with any signal, but I’m no expert on the device.
  17. have you already made up your mind then? If you love the lows then id suggests a Sundown NSV4.
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