Casparado Posted September 19, 2019 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2019 originally they came with inline capacitors that high passed at 10k. Now they are on 2nd order (12db slope) L/R @ 5k Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToNasty Posted September 19, 2019 Report Share Posted September 19, 2019 I think running them that high might be causing some issue. ***Super Sellers List***http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/25829-super-sellers-buyers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casparado Posted September 19, 2019 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2019 Please elaborate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToNasty Posted September 19, 2019 Report Share Posted September 19, 2019 In my opinion you're making the midrange do to much work and the tweeter not enough. How theyre aimed may also be affecting everything There are small things you can do to improve what you have. Just will take a little work ***Super Sellers List***http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/25829-super-sellers-buyers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casparado Posted September 19, 2019 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2019 I wish I could change the aiming of the mids. They're stuck in the stock door location. The tweets are in the A-pillar The whole reason I changed the crossover point was because I felt there was some beaming happening from the mids being full range (and in a shitty location) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casparado Posted September 19, 2019 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2019 But back to the original question... since the 5 1/4" mids just aren't designed to play below 100hz at all (according to the Focal technician), and I'm asking them to do so much work already.... wouldn't it make sense to send the mid bass frequencies to a new driver? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToNasty Posted September 19, 2019 Report Share Posted September 19, 2019 They beam the higher they play. So you crossing them that high is making them beam faster ***Super Sellers List***http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/25829-super-sellers-buyers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casparado Posted September 19, 2019 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2019 3 minutes ago, ToNasty said: They beam the higher they play. So you crossing them that high is making them beam faster Sorry but I'm not following. I thought taking them from full range down to only 5k and below would reduce beaming. Let me be clear. 1" Tweets in A-pillars are playing 5k-20k. 5 1/4" Mids in doors are playing 100-5k. 12" Sub is playing 20-100hz. The mid bass region is lacking since I went from sealed to ported. That's what I'm trying to fix. Originally (from the factory when I bought them) the tweets were playing 10k-20k, and the mids were full range. Sorry just trying to make sure there's no confusion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White Lightning Posted September 19, 2019 Report Share Posted September 19, 2019 Sub bass drivers are designed completely different from mid bass drivers in most cases. If you want a mid bass upgrade, buy a pair of mid drivers. installing a mid bass driver in the center console will not work in just about any car audio application. Reason is car audio depends on left and right channel separation just like the mid range and high range. On every head unit made, the only mono channel used today is a dedicated center channel or sub bass. And no, you can not substitute center channel for your mid bass application in question. Knowing more about your vehicle can help us help you with your application. This a single cab or an extended cab ??? My personal suggestion on this would be to upgrade the 5.25" drivers to 6.5" drivers (Modification behind the door panels of course) and retune. Kenwood / HELIX / Linear Power (For The Love Of Music) / Brutal Sounds / OverKill Electric Co Questions About Sound Quality ?? Try Here ... Sound Quality, What does it REALLY mean ?? SMD SOTM Winner "White Lightning" 1997 GMT400 Chevy Silverado "The Green Dickle" 1994 GMT400 Chevy "Phantom Dually" Randal's 2007 Chevy Avalanche (we haven't named this one yet) Dylan's "Brutal" 17 Chevy Cruze RS Hatch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casparado Posted September 19, 2019 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2019 It's a 2 door extended cab. I removed the rear "seats" (tiny little fold down things), and filled the area with a 29x14x17(ish) subwoofer box and an amp rack. Modifying the door panels is what I'm trying to stay away from. It would be easy for me to build a center console box from scratch, and I could fit two 6.5" speakers in there (But at least one would have to face upwards) in order to get around the stereo signal issue. (Thanks for reminding me about that.... that would have sucked losing a whole channel of sound.) At what frequency can our ears detect stereo separation? I know it's not a stead fast frequency but a slope, but if I have them only playing from 70-150... will it be that obvious that they're in the center playing upwards instead of in the doors playing on either side? IOW, if I cross them over at 150 instead of 250, will it be less obvious that they're not on the left/right sides of the vehicle? And thank you for your help guys, I really do appreciate it, and I am willing to think outside of the box and hear all ideas. If I gotta modify the doors then that's it... I would just prefer not to. But I'm open to all ideas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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