Jump to content
Second Skin Audio

The right amp for my subs p3d4-12


Recommended Posts

Hi, I’m about to buy an amp for my subs but i don’t know if the one I’m looking for will be a good match.

My system : Kenwood excelon kmm-503 (5v rca output), amp - KAC 9106D on 4 gauge and a single p3d4-12 rockford fosgate wired at 2 ohm. Honda Fit 2008 with a 90 amp alternator.

i want to buy a second p3d4-12 and wired them at 1 ohm. So, I was interested by the rockford fosgate prime 1200.1D to replace my KAC 9106D. I’m on the stock electrical system and my headlight are dimming with a single 12, but I’m planning to do the big 3 on 1/0 gauge and wired the amp on 1/0 too, (even if it needs 4 gauge)

I’m wondering if i will have enough CLEAN power to max my p3. they can take 1200 peak and the prime will produce just enough power so there’s might be clipping since ill max its output. And do i need a HighOutput alternator to not starve the amp? Is this a good amp for my need. Do you have suggestion that can do a better job for my need? Thanks!

PS : I don’t want to put too much money if not needed to upgrade electrical system.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, Simon Landry said:

Hi, I’m about to buy an amp for my subs but i don’t know if the one I’m looking for will be a good match.

My system : Kenwood excelon kmm-503 (5v rca output), amp - KAC 9106D on 4 gauge and a single p3d4-12 rockford fosgate wired at 2 ohm. Honda Fit 2008 with a 90 amp alternator.

i want to buy a second p3d4-12 and wired them at 1 ohm. So, I was interested by the rockford fosgate prime 1200.1D to replace my KAC 9106D. I’m on the stock electrical system and my headlight are dimming with a single 12, but I’m planning to do the big 3 on 1/0 gauge and wired the amp on 1/0 too, (even if it needs 4 gauge)

I’m wondering if i will have enough CLEAN power to max my p3. they can take 1200 peak and the prime will produce just enough power so there’s might be clipping since ill max its output. And do i need a HighOutput alternator to not starve the amp? Is this a good amp for my need. Do you have suggestion that can do a better job for my need? Thanks!

PS : I don’t want to put too much money if not needed to upgrade electrical system.

they can take 1200 RMS***

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I ran those subs basically in the same order as you. I ran a single p3d4 12 on a RF Prime 500 then two on a Prime 750 then the same two on a DC 2k.... Switched to SA 12s and they handled the power better than the P3s.

The 1200 Prime should be a good fit for two P3 12s just put them in a good box with decent port area and you will be happy. A dd-1 or oscilloscope will let you adjust gains to avoid any distortion/clipping 

7 minutes ago, Simon Landry said:

they can take 1200 RMS***

When it comes to subs, most can take an additional 25-50% power because when it starts moving it creates resistance that lowers the amps output to the sub anyways. Just use clean power 

 

As far as dimming head lights. Buy LED headlights to pretty much eliminate this problem. From my understanding, LED headlights eliminate the problem because they 1. use less power than standard bulbs 2. have a higher refresh rate so dimming is invisible to the naked eye. 

 

A High output alternator is always a big upgrade and imo the best if you plan to have the car for a couple years, seeing as we always upgrade our systems inevitably... If you don't want to invest 500$ in a HO Alt the next best thing would be to make sure you have a decent under hood AGM then the biggest AGM you can fit in the back (plan out space to fit a second one for any future upgrades). You want to get around 150-200 ah of AGM for minimal voltage drop. I'd say 100 ah of AGM bare minimum with some voltage drop. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Also with these prime amps the power/ground/remote inputs are all slanted downwards instead of straight, so keep that in mind when you are running your wire. They also make 1/0 to 4 gauge reducers at plenty of online stores to make it easier to fit 1/0 into a 4 gauge hole. Same design, different amp: 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you’re gonna get wire gauge reducers then make sure they are cooper cause anything short of cooper and silver will reduce conductivity. So the best and easiest and same result fix is to just cut like half of the strands of the 1/0awg off at the ends that go into the amp so the ends are like 4 gauge. Reduce it like that instead of spending $20 on copper reducers or wasting you money on aluminum ones that will take away from conductivity, thus reduce rms output. 

:stupid:“How can we help you?”
:guido:
“And don’t forget to tell them that 
the customer isn’t always right.”

Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 minutes ago, Simon Landry said:

so with your dc 2k, you probably maxed the output that these subs can handle. Did they hit hard ? i want too feel the bass on my chest. My single p3 play loud in his sealed box, but is not chest pouding.

 

You don't max the output. You set the gains with a tool that lets you give the subs clean power. Sealed boxs can still get down but ported are usually easier to get louder for cheaper... 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

And to be honest with you. You only need 4 gauge for the big 3 and to your amp because 4 gauge can support 150 amps of current and you that’s what you will be pulling, but a little less. Don’t go by amp dyno reading on amperage pull that isn’t on music, it’s on some waves that pull almost double the current than music. Your alternator is only 90 amps and your amp will not be pulling 150 amps, so why get 350 amp wiring (1/0awg)?

:stupid:“How can we help you?”
:guido:
“And don’t forget to tell them that 
the customer isn’t always right.”

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if

1 minute ago, 121gigawatts said:

And to be honest with you. You only need 4 gauge for the big 3 and to your amp because 4 gauge can support 150 amps of current and you that’s what you will be pulling, but a little less. Don’t go by amp dyno reading on amperage pull that isn’t on music, it’s on some waves that pull almost double the current than music. Your alternator is only 90 amps and your amp will not be pulling 150 amps, so why get 350 amp wiring (1/0awg)?

because i already have the wire at home, and for the reducer, i just bought nickel silver reducer..

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, Joshdashef said:

You don't max the output. You set the gains with a tool that lets you give the subs clean power. Sealed boxs can still get down but ported are usually easier to get louder for cheaper... 

The new prime r2 amps have a clip reader on them that secrecy’s distortion. No tools needed for that amp. I’m surprised they put something like that on their entry level amps, but kudos to Rockford.

:stupid:“How can we help you?”
:guido:
“And don’t forget to tell them that 
the customer isn’t always right.”

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 722 Guests (See full list)

×
×
  • Create New...