1point21gigawatts Posted April 22, 2020 Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 Me drawing a diagram is a last resort. I don’t want to though. So it’s a last resort lol! But do you understand what I’m explaining without making me have to draw it out? “How can we help you?” “And don’t forget to tell them that the customer isn’t always right.” Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bismofunyuns Posted April 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 2 minutes ago, 1.21gigawatts said: Me drawing a diagram is a last resort. I don’t want to though. So it’s a last resort lol! But do you understand what I’m explaining without making me have to draw it out? im not sure lol if my second drawing doesnt look right then i guess im lost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bismofunyuns Posted April 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 11 hours ago, 1.21gigawatts said: The way I explained how to do it when I thought you had a from battery. Do it the same way just for the imaginary front battery posts have battery terminals to connect everything like there was a battery there and mount the battery terminals to some wood where the front battery is suppose to go. Thus “deleting the front battery”. why couldnt i just skip a distro block and run these wires straight from the alternator instead? sounds like i had everything correct besides running the wires to a post before running to the back Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AaronT Posted April 22, 2020 Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 Run your 3 from alt to battery, that's a longer run than the battery to amp. Plus the 3 runs from alt to battery leave much upgrade options open for future. I don't know why he assumes they should be equal , makes no sense. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1point21gigawatts Posted April 22, 2020 Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 20 minutes ago, AaronT said: Run your 3 from alt to battery, that's a longer run than the battery to amp. Plus the 3 runs from alt to battery leave much upgrade options open for future. I don't know why he assumes they should be equal , makes no sense. Because 3 runs is pointless right now when he can just do 2 runs of bigger 0 gauge than 1/0 if he upgrades past the 700 amps 2 1/0 can produce or he can add a 3rd wire if he ever upgrades. I would personally just run bigger 0 gauge if I upgraded. And with the set up he is running, which isn’t a 20,000 watt system then why take up the space and have to spend more money when he isn’t going to be pulling 1050 amps. “How can we help you?” “And don’t forget to tell them that the customer isn’t always right.” Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1point21gigawatts Posted April 22, 2020 Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 9 hours ago, bismofunyuns said: why couldnt i just skip a distro block and run these wires straight from the alternator instead? sounds like i had everything correct besides running the wires to a post before running to the back For the most part, yes. Just need to double up on your grounds and I’d do the delete instead of running your alternator grounds all the way to the back where the battery is at. The shorter the grounds, the better. That’s the main gripe I had about your diagram. So that’s why I said just do the front battery delete so the alternator is grounded hard to the frame as the end product of the runs and the runs will be way shorter making the ground stronger. “How can we help you?” “And don’t forget to tell them that the customer isn’t always right.” Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bismofunyuns Posted April 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 25 minutes ago, 1point21gigawatts said: For the most part, yes. Just need to double up on your grounds and I’d do the delete instead of running your alternator grounds all the way to the back where the battery is at. The shorter the grounds, the better. That’s the main gripe I had about your diagram. So that’s why I said just do the front battery delete so the alternator is grounded hard to the frame as the end product of the runs and the runs will be way shorter making the ground stronger. Maybe my diagram is bad, let me put it into text. positive runs - two from alternator to rear lithium battery - two runs from lithium battery to both power inputs in amp (assuming amp as 2 power and 2 ground) negative runs - two cables ran from alt post to metal frame under the hood, sanded and bare metal etc - two cables ran from alt post to negative terminal on lithium battery - two cables ran from lithium negative to bare metal chassis ground in the rear - two cables ran from lithium negative to both ground inputs in amp lets not forget there’s no battery under the hood, the lithium battery is in the back near the amp etc. hopefully this clears up any confusion Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1point21gigawatts Posted April 22, 2020 Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 Personally I wouldn’t run 2 negatives from the alternator ground to the battery post. To far of a ground for my taste. Ground the alternator to the frame with 2 runs. And ground the battery to the frame with 2 runs. Shorter grounds, same concept. “How can we help you?” “And don’t forget to tell them that the customer isn’t always right.” Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bismofunyuns Posted April 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 Just now, 1point21gigawatts said: Personally I wouldn’t run 2 negatives from the alternator ground to the battery post. To far of a ground for my taste. Ground the alternator to the frame with 2 runs. And ground the battery to the frame with 2 runs. Shorter grounds, same concept. I see. From the reading I’ve done, it seems like adding grounds coming from the front also helps as well. Normally these grounds would come from the negative on the front battery but since I won’t have a front battery, it would just come from the alt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bismofunyuns Posted April 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2020 7 minutes ago, 1point21gigawatts said: Personally I wouldn’t run 2 negatives from the alternator ground to the battery post. To far of a ground for my taste. Ground the alternator to the frame with 2 runs. And ground the battery to the frame with 2 runs. Shorter grounds, same concept. As far as running two grounds for each, it should be okay to connect both ring terminals / wires with one bolt in one location right? Or should I drill out separate holes to bolt each wire? this is probably a stupid question, just wanting to make sure I get the most out of my runs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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