Final check list, 15k electrical

[markcrnll]

Hi guys! I’m looking for opinions and input from people with previous experience in hooking up along with running a 15k+ system daily. This is my first system over 3k, and the more and more research I do, most of the knowledge from experience information I’m reading from others is for setups around 5k. I have spent a very long time dreaming of this build and quite a long time saving up for it. Coming from someone who has experienced a small engine compartment electrical fire in the past (too much current, not enough wire), it is imperative I get this right the first time, the right way.. I’m making the FINAL purchases for my electrical this week and had some questions. This is being built and installed into a 2008 Toyota Yaris Hatchback. This is what I got. Already purchased: 4x Soundqubed HDX3 12 d2, 2x Taramps md8000 (each wired at .5 ohm), ATOTO A6 double din android car navig radio, 4 Alpine type r 6.5” door speakers running on a Soundqubed s4.100, 250a CES alt charging at 14.8 and 2 80 aH JY lithium banks (green ones) bussed in parallel for 160ah total. My intention is to not get a second alternator at this time(opinions on 1 alt).

I use my stereo for 15-45 min on average daily, not always at full tilt but I do like it loud. I have no intentions of demoing at idle rpms for more then 30 sec or so, ever. So as I do my final ordering for electrical these are my thoughts:

-5 runs of 1/0 from front battery to back battery bank with 2x 300 amp fuses inline on each run. One up by the front battery, one by the bank in the bank. Is 5 runs about right yeah?

-Lithium bank grounded to chassis or multiple grounds ran from bank in the back straight to battery up front. This is where I’m on the fence. All the research I can find on where to ground power source in back points to chassis be more then adequate, even being better in cases of 5k rms and under. I have a unibody frame on my Yaris, I am leaning toward grounding to chassis. What do you think? and should I use more then 5 grounds to chassis being I only used 5 runs of positive from front to back?

- 2 runs of both positive and negative running to each amplifier. Even though there is only 1 input on each amp I am running dual input 1/0 both pos and neg from bank to each amp, it only makes sense... Should I fuse between bank and amplifier also? If so, what size? I do know for a fact these are capable of 700+ amps though it will not see that much very often if at all. I was considering not fusing in that spot being I have a 1 year warranty on these amps😂😂😂 and I see my buddies not fusing in this spot when running their md8000.1s at .5. 
-obviously the big 3 with plenty of ground to the alt and engine block.

 

Things left to order:

-100’ of 1/0 basic welding cable (positive)

-50’ of 1/0 basic welding cable (neg)

-2x 5spot anl fuse block (both blocks for my 5 runs of 1/0 from front battery to back bank)

-Some type of 8 spot distribution block for my positive battery terminal post on my front battery.

-3/8 1/0 copper terminal rings

 

What do you guys think? What did I miss? Anything overkill? Not enough? Are grommets highly recommended?(first time running wire under vehicle) Is heat shrink for my terminal lugs always highly recommended?

[1point21gigawatts]

1/0 awg can support up to 350 amps of current. It really depends on if you’re gonna be playing some sine waves for competition or are you just gonna use the system for daily music play? And be prepared to have to fix or buy new amps in the future. Because even with a good electrical and exterior inline fans cooling the amps, Brazilian boards don’t do well at 0.5ohm. So give give out sooner, some later. But all will give out. Korean boards are WAY better when running at 0.5ohm. But even Korean boards give out at 0.5ohn eventually. Sundown makes a solid Korean built amp and even Jacob will tell you after 5 years or so at 0.5ohm that their amps will give out. Most people just run 0.5ohm for competition set ups that don’t see too much play time. Not daily set ups. But some do. I thought about it for daily and even bought an in-line fane and a google switch and was gonna run a sundown saz amp at 0.45ohm and finally decided not to and switched a dual 1 ohm subwoofer for a dual 2 ohm subwoofer and run at about 0.8ohm. Why don’t you just run at 0.8ohm on some md12000.1’s and save yourself the future stress if it’s gonna be a daily driver set up? Crescendo are in my opinion the best for 0.5ohm because they offer an extra warranty for running their amps at 0.5ohm. 

[bmwking]

get a 300A+ alt instead of a 250 if you can, get the highest amperage alt you can if you're only going to run a single alt and try to get the most out of your lithium banks and amps.

 

You can simplify your build if you switch over to 2/0 ofc, less runs and less complication. 

 

fusing twice per front to back run is redundant, but if it makes you feel better go for it.  it isn't necessary tho.

 

fuse once for each front to back run, then fuse between lithium bank and amps, figure out MAX total system current draw and divide that number by the runs of front to back wire and use that amperage fuse per run (1600A total max current draw/4 runs of welding 2/0 =400A fuse per run).

 

 use appropriate sized fuses for the amps ie. doing double power runs to each positive input will mean instead of a 700A fuse, use 2 350A fuses.  fuse for max amperage draw.

 

1 ground for every positive.  doesnt make sense to fill a bucket wit ha fire hose and try to empty it with a garden hose.

 

1/0 welding cable is comparable in wire size to car audio ofc 4ga.  welding 2/0 is comparable to car audio ofc 1/0 and so on.  car audio wire is typically oversized when buying from a reputable seller/manufacturer.

 

grounding the lithium banks to the chassis in the rear is fine and done frequently, no need for negative runs up front.

 

if running through any body opening not already grommeted, definitely use grommets.  

 

look at the smd XL fuse holders and ground/distribution blocks, they should serve your build nicely. also if you don't have one already, get a hydraulic crimper, usually like 50ish bucks on amazon and will crimp perfectly every time without murdering your hands or your wire.

 

 

 

And just a heads up, you're going to hate that headunit if you've used a normal double din from the name brand manufacturers (pioneer, etc).  I had one for about a month and it doesnt get loud enough even at max volume, also the touch interface is flaky af