bmwking

you could always get a 5 channel amp with bluetooth built in. just have to get some nice EQ app for the tablet. just spitballing.

i found some PRV 4" mids that might fit the bill for you. but as far as a 2.5" full range, everything's coming up milhouse and i think you may have the best option. https://www.parts-express.com/prv-audio-4mr60-4-4-full-range-4-ohm--294-2760 as far as 3" 4 ohm drivers, here's what's at Partsexpress: https://www.parts-express.com/cat/midrange-midbass-drivers-full-range-speakers/16?N=21631+4294967118+4294964608+4294965095&Ne=10166&Nrs=collection()%2Frecord[endeca%3Amatches(.%2C"P_PortalID"%2C"1")+and+endeca%3Amatches(.%2C"P_Searchable"%2C"1")]&Ns=P_BestPrice|1&PortalID=1 you can search the 2.5" stuff too but yeah...

set your EQ to flat or zero everything out. you're not doing your equipment any favors using a preset EQ slope. when you've adjusted the phase on the amp, try turning it up to a playable level and then turning up the sub level on the headunit, dont change anything else with the sub unless you can change the frequency to 60+/- hz. if the subs play louder with the sub level on the headunit turned up then we're making progress. but you should really find someone with the proper equipment to tune your amps so you dont cook those nice ass subs. as far as the wiring is concerned, i would add at least 2 good agm batteries (XS, Kinetik, fullriver, etc) to your power reserves, to make at least 3 total. i would also do another run or 2 of 1/0 from the alt back to the secondary battery bank then distribute to the amps. this will help the amps reach their full voltage potential, rather than starving.

phase set at 180 is only ok if the subs are mounted inverted, like with the baskets and magnets visible, cone firing into the box. if this is not the case, set the phase to 0. im pretty sure with your gain set that high that itll be sending a clipped signal to your very expensive subs, so find someone with an oscilloscope or DD1 fast. you subsonic sounds like it should be "ok" for now, if not set a little low. but it's not too high which is ok. your lowpass (and these are approximations, no one actually knows the numbers they're set too without a CC-1 or something similar) is set to about 100hz. that's pretty high but the headunit should be sending it 80hz and below so it;s not too bad.

if they were set up by ear, those are all completely wrong. as far as your deck goes, everything should be flat/off. sub filter at 80 is fine, whats the sub control in the deck set at? sounds like you need a reputable shop with the proper tools to set your gains. or a buddy with a DD1. by having your subsonic at 40%, is that 40% of the full rotation of the dial, or is it at 40hz? if it's 40%, what numbers is it between? same goes for lowpass knob?

if youre using 8s for midbass, why not use a 4" for full range? consider too, the ohm loads of each speaker and how they will get wired in to make sure youre not overpowering them and that they're compatible.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Boss-Audio-12-Inch-1600-Watt-4-Ohm-SVC-Car-Audio-Power-Stereo-Subwoofer-4-Pack/352466190817?epid=24014627482&hash=item52109f41e1:g:5cQAAOSwAN1bpSa8:sc:ShippingMethodExpress!48220!US!-1 all 4 of these on 950rms will sound good. do a 4th order with about 84 cu ft ported and 2.5 cu ft sealed. should get ya rockin. dont forget to upgrade your electrical with multiple runs of 8 gauge OFC. get a couple of battery jump packs to really unleash the farads when you need.

pretty bass packed one in the 50s:

i know literally nothing about the dynamics of 4th orders, but holy shit 24 cubes seems wayyyyy too big for those subs. so i guess im commenting out of curiosity to see what answer you get

if it's a lithium battery, it wont throttle down, it'll just stop. no loss of power, just a full stop. but go grab a 120 grit flapper disk that fits your collar from harbor freight for a couple bucks and come back at it. reconing isnt a job you should rush or do something to "make it work" do it right the first time, no matter how much time it takes, and you wont have to do it over.

if the push terminals are rated for up to 8g, use 10g to connect them together and to run to the amp output/terminal cup. do it right the first time, dont worry about it the next time.

im surprised the wire wheel on an angle grinder didnt do the trick tho.

if youre trying to remove the leftover glue from the bare basket, a flapper disc on an angle grinder works really quickly. it's all about holding it at the right angle and making sure you get in there without the tool yanking out of your hand. dont dig into the metal so have a delicate but steady touch.

8. swap it out for 8 guage.

should do nicely. if youre lucky Joe X or Triticum will chime in with a really good design. I know that i used ABs street pounder style box for 2 12" xfls, but i dont know how generic their single 15 box is and after plugging it in to Torres it gives you 3.53 cu ft net (before sub and bracing displacement which i can find nothing on the line about the sub displacement for an xfl), and tuned to 42hz. for me that's simply too high. im a mid 30s guy. you wanting 32hz is gonna require someone with more knowledge than me to chime in