bmwking

yeah, use something like this: https://xplicitaudio.com/shop/ill-customz-4ga-to-8ga-reducers/ fwiw i've had a great personal experience with ill customz stuff so far

not sure on specs, but i think i found your subs. and this should settle the smd vs xfire dispute. http://www.caraudioclassifieds.org/forum/18-subwoofers/171746-2-18-crossfire-supergauss.html

ok, hear me out, because i've just started getting into the world of tiny subs. in your space, if you can swing an extra inch or so in height (and lose about half your width which would free up more room in that teeny trunk), you could use a 6.5" sub ported. Just for gits and shiggles, look at the massive audio hippoXL64. They're very highly recommended in the tiny sub world. and at $100 it's perfect budget wise. https://www.amazon.com/Massive-Audio-HippoXL64-6-Competition-Individually/dp/B073RP7LVY they're dual 4, so you can wire to 2 ohm. they're rated 300 rms conservatively. as long as you tune for clean power i dont think youll have any issue with your amp. plus the manufacturer recommended box specs are 12"H x 10"D x 10"W with a 3" round port 7" long. if you use they're spec it'll be tuned to about 70hz according to torres (one of the other box gurus may be able to chime in with a better design for you too) however if you use you're original 20" width and do 10" height and depth, that'll be a hair over 1 cubif ft and with the same 3" round 7" long port, tune your box to about 46hz. a much more usable tune with your music tastes. Personally I've used 4 6.5" subs to great result so far. I even used a CT Sounds meso6.5 in a smaller than recommended sealed box in the hatch of an 03 cooper s. on 300 watts that little fucker shook the rearview mirror! you have tons of options in your price range as far as 6.5s go too, even a sundown SA series 6.5". food for thought

I'd like to nominate @Triticum Agricolam @Joe X and @WalledSonic Triticum for his amazing help with not only my coffee table sub build from last year but for him answering any enclosure questions i toss his way even when I'm just spit balling. The definition of invaluable. The coffee table: My computer sub: Joe X for his constant and consistent enclosure designs that he whips up for almost anyone who asks for help. I'm sure he's the reason a lot of n00bs join, just in the hopes that he drops a box design in reply to their one and only thread. He personally came up with the wall design I'll eventually use. The design: Walled because of the stellar help he gave me with lithium batteries and trying to find an economic solution. His brain is huge and is talent is vast. Truly a 5 star man. The battery I use because of him (that, working my 270a singer, keeps my voltage from dropping below 13.9 with 3k at full tilt):

i run a 4790k stock clock, 16gb ddr3, msi rx580 8g, 512gb nvme m.2 ssd, and a bunch of storage. win 10 my computer does a cold start boot in 13 seconds. from completely off to waiting for my input at the desktop have zero complaints about the 4790k.

i agree with phuck. you wont notice the extra couple hundred watts being split between 2 compared to noticing the difference with more cone area on slightly less power. plus, if you decide to upgrade the amp in the future, you have subs that can take more power

this is a solid recommendation! they have specific bulbs made for the reflector housing which makes me think they've put in the R&D https://www.theretrofitsource.com/2014-silverado-morimoto-elite.html

ah you must have the reflector housings then. if it wasnt $300 to upgrade to the ltz projector style housing i'd say go for both. but spending nearly ~$400 just to fix headlight dimming may not be your thing

might not be black friday/cyber monday anymore but was just out with the wife at TJ maxx and they randomly had an xbox one x sitting on a table with a bunch of shitty bluetooth speakers. brand new, for $379. the video game resale shop right next door had used ones for $429 lol. I snatched that bitch up. thanks santa!

1- Because headlight bulbs are designed to run at full lumen output at ~14.4v. When your audio system is drawing more current than the electrical system can provide, it lowers the delivered voltage to the headlights (and other accessories) thus lowering the output of the lights. 2- a few solutions. adding a higher output alternator(s) to boost the available output to the electrical system. upgrade/add batteries into the system to provide more reserve for when demand presents itself. upgrade to HID/LED headlights, HID lights store voltage in a ballast to provide a constant higher power to the HID bulb. LED bulbs use less power to create the same or better output, thus presenting less of a load and operating at lower voltages puts it below the lowest voltage that you're pulling to.

want your headlights to stop dimming? go led. https://www.amazon.com/OPT7-Headlight-Bulbs-Clear-Arc-Beam/dp/B00VNBDWPK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458508907&sr=8-1&keywords=OPT7+H11 probably time for an upgrade on the old yellow lights anyway

got a couple of ct meso 6.5" subs for half off. a bunch of shit for american girl dolls (for my nieces). a shinesty xmas suit. some luggage. a smart thermostat. some smart plugs for alexa. oddly i held off on buying any computer parts, mainly because i asked for some stuff from santa and didnt want to double up if he got it for me.

bruh, with wheels like that, just get some cheap steel rims and swap the tires from em. put your nice wheels in storage for the winter. you can get steelies for less than $200

an upgraded agm up front will work out fine (XS, FullRiver, etc. deep cycle and good aH) as for runs, figure at peak youll be pulling ~1000 amps. that said, at least 4 runs of 1/0 should work out ok. OFC is preferred to CCA for less voltage drop

3 subs in series is a ~1 ohm load yes. if you took each group of 3 subs, and wired each group in series, it should present ~3 ohms at the amp. depending on the rms of each sub, you could likely find a stout 2 ohm stable amp that makes good power at 4 ohms and figure you'd land somewhere between there getting delivered to your subs if you took each group of 3 subs @ 1 ohm and wired the 3 groups in parallel you'd end up with ~0.3 ohm (which after rise and beefy ass electrical, could work out for a solid 0.5 ohm stable amp) that's gonna be a nightmare of wiring. what subs have a 0.35 SVC? personally? to make it easier on my brain, i'd ditch one of the subs. wire each bank of 4 subs in series for 1.4 ohms per bank, then wire the 2 banks together in parallel for a final load of 0.7 ohm. which is way more reasonable to ask of most well built, 1 ohm stable amps. dont make this too tough on yourself, chances are you wont gain anything by adding that 9th sub. but you will make it harder on your amp, electrical, vehicle by wiring to 0.3, and (depending on the rms rating of the subs) it may be tough to find a strong enough amp to push them at 3 ohms. just my $0.02, you do you booboo