bmwking

per american bass: SPL 1-12 BOX DESIGNS Outer Dimensions 1” MDF Length 30” Height 15” Depth 15” Port Size Wide 2.5” Height 13” Length 24” Port is on the side of the box.

is the xfl you have now a 1222 or 1244?

i have 2 on 2k right now. in a 4.8 cu ft, common chamber, slot ported box. tuned to about 34hz. resonant frequency in my car peaks it around 37. 2.4 sq ft per xfl 12 is optimal. if youre doing independent chambers, you can essentially build a box that has 2 mirrored chambers with the port opening in the center and have a divider wall down the center of the port. that would keep both subs from interacting with each other. set your gains to be distortion free across all your devices (amp, HU), youll have no issues giving them rated power, that db16 puts out less than 2200 rms @ 2 ohms, the subs are rated for 1k rms, believe me when i say they'll shrug at it.

DDZ for me! or a pride ST.

your first diagram will net you the same result yes. you can ring terminal some 8ga and send a lead to one pos of each sub and one neg of each sub, or you can mount a distro block inside the box. if you do a distro block, use 2 of these, one for pos, one for neg. you can do 8 gauge in and 8 gauge out and it'll be fine. dont ever use wire nuts, https://www.parts-express.com/4-8-awg-distribution-block--265-800?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=pla

haha was that your old one Josh?

dang i have a cde-149bt too. mine is clean on the DD-1 to 34. sucks you got a bad one, have you tried doing an RMA with alpine?

mmm homemade lithium! love it! what aH is your cell rated? max discharge rate?

i highly suggest you do, it's so worthwhile. i dont have a ton of experience with super high end desktop/bookshelf speakers but based on the myriad surround sound systems ive had i would easily put these up against a brand name setup that costs at least 2x as much. all in with parts, drivers, and materials i'd say they cost less than $150. plus ykno... satisfaction of doing it yourself and having it come out cool

8ga. or buy some reducers

change common ports walls to 3 for a slot port

If something's wrong with the resistance it should be obvious, the coils should be the same. Granted if your meter is cheap it may have a tolerance range so keep that in mind. Strange that you can hear but not feel mechanical noise in it... hmmm

cool, just making sure one that. sometimes cameras make subs look like they're doing something wrong but they're actually fine. as for the crackle, that definitely sounds like something going wrong. only way to tell if it's a coil really is to meter each coil and see if they match and are within spec. ie a 4 ohm coil on a typical sub will usually read about 3.4. with the system off can you slowly push down on the sub and feel anything rough or hear the crackle? it sounds to me like some sort of manufacturer defect is going on. i'd contact skar about a warranty.

this is an important question that shouldn't go unanswered

If you have a soldering iron/pen, yeah that's a super easy fix. Heat it up, melt the solder then lift. Let it rest and solidify. It'll be a good learning project, cause if it doesn't work you can just buy a replacement for cheap