Dafaseles Posted May 21, 2020 Report Share Posted May 21, 2020 As of right now I'm planning on doing 4 runs of 2/0 welding wire (rated at 300 amps per). My main question is am I going to overboard with my grounds to the frame and runs from the alternator to the battery and the engin block, or am I good? Also, as far as the 2 batteries in the back, should i wire them together that way or would a bus bar(i think that's what they're called) be a better option? Also any other input would be greatly appreciated. I'm still learning as much as I can about the electrical side of things. (I apologize in advance if the drawings are confusing) 2011 Chevy Silverado under construction My build log here. Check it out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSkippyJ Posted May 21, 2020 Report Share Posted May 21, 2020 how much power can your alternator put out? You aren't going to hurt anything running that many wire. But if you are running 4 @300 amps each then you have the capacity for 1200 amps. I feel like with just one alternator that is a LOT of over kill. On the other hand, if you plan on adding extra alternators in the future then go ahead and wire for them now. F150: Stock 2019 Harley Road Glide: Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt Processor: DSR1 Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx Lid (Rear) 6x9s - TMS69 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dafaseles Posted May 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2020 19 minutes ago, MrSkippyJ said: how much power can your alternator put out? You aren't going to hurt anything running that many wire. But if you are running 4 @300 amps each then you have the capacity for 1200 amps. I feel like with just one alternator that is a LOT of over kill. On the other hand, if you plan on adding extra alternators in the future then go ahead and wire for them now. Sorry, I should have put that, I'm running right now a mechman 370 amp alternator and the 3 batteries equal out to about 305 amp hours.... if I did the math correctly. I'm not 100% sure on that. Then at let's just say 13 volts (305×13=) 3,965 amp hours total.... again, if I did the math correctly. With all the amplifiers, it's an estimated draw of 1,008 amps. 3 runs would only get me to 900 amps...... if I did the math correctly. I got the math from a Car Audio Fabrication video on YouTube and a MaxxsonicsUSAinc YouTube video 2011 Chevy Silverado under construction My build log here. Check it out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSkippyJ Posted May 21, 2020 Report Share Posted May 21, 2020 OOOH. I thought the alternator was running to batteries the bed, you still have a battery under the hood. You will be safe only running 2 wires from your alternator but I would keep all the runs going to the bed. You can keep the wires on the alternator too, won't hurt anything. F150: Stock 2019 Harley Road Glide: Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt Processor: DSR1 Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx Lid (Rear) 6x9s - TMS69 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1point21gigawatts Posted May 21, 2020 Report Share Posted May 21, 2020 When an amp says it pulls a certain amount of amps (and doesn’t say music consumption amps) or you see it pull a certain amount of amps that’s just how many amps on an amp dyno it pulls during sine waves. It pulls around half that during music. Why don’t you do 2 runs of 2/0 ofc car audio cable and be done with it? Each 2/0 ofc car audio cable will handle about 500 amps of current. That’s what I’d do. “How can we help you?” “And don’t forget to tell them that the customer isn’t always right.” Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dafaseles Posted May 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2020 15 minutes ago, 1point21gigawatts said: When an amp says it pulls a certain amount of amps (and doesn’t say music consumption amps) or you see it pull a certain amount of amps that’s just how many amps on an amp dyno it pulls during sine waves. It pulls around half that during music. Why don’t you do 2 runs of 2/0 ofc car audio cable and be done with it? Each 2/0 ofc car audio cable will handle about 500 amps of current. That’s what I’d do. Yeah, I know that math is if the amps are pulling all they can (they won't ever) and the only 2/0 car audio cable I could find a rating for was GP Car audio wire and it said it was rated at 400 amps.... not saying you're wrong at all, just explaining my thought process. Plus 300 feet of 2/0 welding cable is still cheaper than 150 feet of 2/0 sky high car audio cable. Again, not saying you're wrong and I'm right, just explaining the thought process behind my choices. If I'm wrong, I want to be corrected👍 2011 Chevy Silverado under construction My build log here. Check it out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dafaseles Posted May 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2020 29 minutes ago, MrSkippyJ said: OOOH. I thought the alternator was running to batteries the bed, you still have a battery under the hood. You will be safe only running 2 wires from your alternator but I would keep all the runs going to the bed. You can keep the wires on the alternator too, won't hurt anything. Yeah, I was worried about maybe the alternator trying to push too much with all those runs, or all those runs to the frame potentially hurting something or what have you. Or, in the opposite side, if there was no point in doing all those runs to the frame because there would be absolutely no benefit 2011 Chevy Silverado under construction My build log here. Check it out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dafaseles Posted May 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2020 36 minutes ago, 1point21gigawatts said: When an amp says it pulls a certain amount of amps (and doesn’t say music consumption amps) or you see it pull a certain amount of amps that’s just how many amps on an amp dyno it pulls during sine waves. It pulls around half that during music. Why don’t you do 2 runs of 2/0 ofc car audio cable and be done with it? Each 2/0 ofc car audio cable will handle about 500 amps of current. That’s what I’d do. To further more on that thought, no wire has been bought yet so things can absolutely change. One huge problem is the runs from the hood to the bed. If for some reason is turns out to not be enough, to get down to the bed and and add more wire, I'd have to move the box. To move the box, I'd have to take the box apart to unbolt it from the bed, running the risk of damaging the box and having to spend whatever amount to rebuild it. So I was planning on a little overkill to be 100% sure it was done right the first time. But if this is too much overkill, the plan can definitely change 2011 Chevy Silverado under construction My build log here. Check it out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1point21gigawatts Posted May 21, 2020 Report Share Posted May 21, 2020 48 minutes ago, Dafaseles said: To further more on that thought, no wire has been bought yet so things can absolutely change. One huge problem is the runs from the hood to the bed. If for some reason is turns out to not be enough, to get down to the bed and and add more wire, I'd have to move the box. To move the box, I'd have to take the box apart to unbolt it from the bed, running the risk of damaging the box and having to spend whatever amount to rebuild it. So I was planning on a little overkill to be 100% sure it was done right the first time. But if this is too much overkill, the plan can definitely change 2 runs of sky high 2/0 will support 1008 amps even if you decide to play sine waves and pull that much current. “How can we help you?” “And don’t forget to tell them that the customer isn’t always right.” Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dafaseles Posted May 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2020 16 minutes ago, 1point21gigawatts said: 2 runs of sky high 2/0 will support 1008 amps even if you decide to play sine waves and pull that much current. Which there will be those occasions when I want to push 20hz. through the subs just to see everything shake lol. But very..... VERY rarely. I'll have to double check the math on price then. I know 300 feet of 2/0 welding cable + o- rings + heat shrink is cheaper than 150 feet of SHCA 2/0 car audio cable + SHCA o- rings + SHCA heat shrink - the 5% coupon you find all over Instagram... but maybe it might be cheaper if I can catch that rare occasion SHCA offers the 15%or the 10%discount🤔 something to think about 2011 Chevy Silverado under construction My build log here. Check it out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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