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Port: How long is too long?


akuma4u

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25 minutes ago, akuma4u said:

Is a .20 difference really gonna make an audible difference? 

That enclosure you have now probably is 2 cubic feet before subwoofer displacement and about 1.8 afterwards. Even if it is 2 cubes after sub displacement, .2 cubes added and tuning 5-7hz higher will make an audience difference. Not like a big difference, but noticeable. But I’m thinking your enclosure might be a prefab or maybe just a custom enclosure built 2 cubes before sub displacement so that new enclosure is probably .4 cubes bigger.

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8 minutes ago, 1point21gigawatts said:

That enclosure you have now probably is 2 cubic feet before subwoofer displacement and about 1.8 afterwards. Even if it is 2 cubes after sub displacement, .2 cubes added and tuning 5-7hz higher will make an audience difference. Not like a big difference, but noticeable. But I’m thinking your enclosure might be a prefab or maybe just a custom enclosure built 2 cubes before sub displacement so that new enclosure is probably .4 cubes bigger.

Nah man. This enclosure was designed by me and a builder buddy of mine. I used torres and also my builder tweaked it more with winisd i believe. Its not prefab. Its custom. Its 2 cubes after sub, port, double baffle and bracing displacements. It sounds decent. But i think i can tweak it more to adjust the sound to hit a wider band and focus more on the 40 50 60hz u know where most music has its basslines and also to get more spl/output. Ill try your bigger box suggestion and see what happens

 

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This is my current box. One thing that worries me now since triticum told me this bit of info yesterday. The distance between the port wall and the box side wall should be at least 2x the width of the port. So for this box that would be 6.50 inches. This is less than that..

This box is maybe 4 inches... I guess that will mess with the sound in some way. I think he said it messes with the frequency? I forgot

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8 hours ago, akuma4u said:

This is my current box. One thing that worries me now since triticum told me this bit of info yesterday. The distance between the port wall and the box side wall should be at least 2x the width of the port. So for this box that would be 6.50 inches. This is less than that..

This box is maybe 4 inches... I guess that will mess with the sound in some way. I think he said it messes with the frequency? I forgot

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The distance between the enclosures side wall and the port should be at least the same size as the width of the port, not two times bigger. You read wrong dude. He said that if the port is not at least two times the width of the port away from the side wall the it could affect the tuning a little bit. Minimal.

:stupid:“How can we help you?”
:guido:
“And don’t forget to tell them that 
the customer isn’t always right.”

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1 hour ago, 1point21gigawatts said:

The distance between the enclosures side wall and the port should be at least the same size as the width of the port, not two times bigger. You read wrong dude. He said that if the port is not at least two times the width of the port away from the side wall the it could affect the tuning a little bit. Minimal.

No, he didn't read it wrong.  I did say it should be two times the width of the port so as not to affect the tuning frequency.  It has to be at least one port width away to keep from obstructing the airflow.

Think about it this way.  If the end of the port is exactly one port width away, it will extend the effective length of the port.  You can use this to your advantage sometimes to get a longer port.  You need to plan for it though.

 

Here are some pics to show what I'm talking about.
image.png.63b644cafb80ce73bb3bc348feb48f1b.png
In this picture, you want the port to be 35-3/8" long, so that's what you sized your port panels for.  However the port ends exactly one port width away from side panel, this effectively lengthens the port.

Capture.JPG.c325dfbccbe623ff076615fea4a51b9b.JPG

The port length you actually end up with is about 38-1/2".
 

"Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it."
"Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."

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38 minutes ago, Triticum Agricolam said:

No, he didn't read it wrong.  I did say it should be two times the width of the port so as not to affect the tuning frequency.  It has to be at least one port width away to keep from obstructing the airflow.

Think about it this way.  If the end of the port is exactly one port width away, it will extend the effective length of the port.  You can use this to your advantage sometimes to get a longer port.  You need to plan for it though.

 

Here are some pics to show what I'm talking about.
image.png.63b644cafb80ce73bb3bc348feb48f1b.png
In this picture, you want the port to be 35-3/8" long, so that's what you sized your port panels for.  However the port ends exactly one port width away from side panel, this effectively lengthens the port.

spacer.pngCapture.JPG.c325dfbccbe623ff076615fea4a51b9b.JPG

The port length you actually end up with is about 38-1/2".
 

That’s what I said. You said 2x the width of the port away from the side wall to not affect tuning. He’s thinking that it absolutely has to be double the length away to work and it doesn’t have to be. Just like you just said, Joshdashef said and I said.

:stupid:“How can we help you?”
:guido:
“And don’t forget to tell them that 
the customer isn’t always right.”

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On a positive side, I've used triticums port calculator on the last 8-10 boxes and have had GREAT results. Single xfl on 2k absolutely ate my lil blazer and my 3 tnt 15s on a md8k ( rms right about 6k) is a monster, tearing my door panels apart. My 4 hds2.108s on 3k cracked my window and my buddies window when I sold that set up to him. Only down side of that box was the two subs that had port wall behind them, the dust aps dented. I havent tried to design something so high powered that his calculator didn't pan out for me, I guess when ur building a 10k setup you already have an idea of what works and what doesn't tho so u really aren't going to use an online calculator for a build,but just to get some reference numbers to use the knowledge you already have and go from there.

2009 Silverado 1500, 7.5" lift, 37x12.50r17s, Built Gen 4 5.3L ( 4.8l flat pistons, decked 243s, SS2 Cam, Pac 1218 springs, ported intake, 120mm TB, Long tubes, 3" duals HP tuner software tuned by me), 4l80e swapped and 4.56 gears. All done by me. stereo is Pioneer avh 600ex, all stinger rca, jp23 v1.5, skar rp150.4, and hertz hpd4. 2 SHCA 6.5 8ohm, 1 SHCA 3.5", and 1 DS18 tw120pro in each door. The 3.5 mid and 3.5" tweeters are powered by the skar rp150.4, the 6.5s are powered by the hertz bridged @4 ohms. Dual runs   of 3/0 welding cable, 300a alternator, 2 Vmax AGMs up front. current sub is a AB XR 12 ( dual 2 ohm) with bottom spider cut out in 2.25 cubes at 32hz

 

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On 6/14/2020 at 12:17 AM, Triticum Agricolam said:

Anything less than two port widths away has a good chance of affecting the tuning frequency.  Generally this isn't a huge deal, but just something to keep in mind.   Anything less than one port width away will likely impede airflow and at that point it will negatively affect output.  

"Anything LESS than 2 port widths away has a good chance at affecting tuning frequency." Mine is 1 or just a touch above 1 port width away. Hence, its less than 2 port widths away hence its affecting tuning frequency by making the frequency actually lower than what i thought it was. I thought i was tuned to 34 but im probably really tuned to 31 or 32 mmmaybe even 30

Im lucky its not less than 1 port width away..came close..damn close. I will remember that my next boxes clear at least 2x the port width between side wall and port wall entry point to keep tuning on point. 

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4 hours ago, ehall8702 said:

On a positive side, I've used triticums port calculator on the last 8-10 boxes and have had GREAT results. Single xfl on 2k absolutely ate my lil blazer and my 3 tnt 15s on a md8k ( rms right about 6k) is a monster, tearing my door panels apart. My 4 hds2.108s on 3k cracked my window and my buddies window when I sold that set up to him. Only down side of that box was the two subs that had port wall behind them, the dust aps dented. I havent tried to design something so high powered that his calculator didn't pan out for me, I guess when ur building a 10k setup you already have an idea of what works and what doesn't tho so u really aren't going to use an online calculator for a build,but just to get some reference numbers to use the knowledge you already have and go from there.

I never knew it had a 1000 rms per cube limitations or whatever. Other than that, it’s probably dope as fugh. But I tried to use it on a big ass amp on 2 12” subwoofers in an enclosure about 15% bigger than recommended. It was more like 2000 rms per cube, that’s why it didn’t work for me. But triticum hates me now because of that. Lol! Fugh it though. I can’t win everybody over.

:stupid:“How can we help you?”
:guido:
“And don’t forget to tell them that 
the customer isn’t always right.”

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