Blackedout Posted May 15, 2008 Report Share Posted May 15, 2008 Right Now I'm running 2 12'' cvrs in a sealed box, about 3 Cu Ft After displacement. I want to build a ported box, because I have room in my truck to Make a box ~9'' taller than the existing one. My question is, what frequency should it be tuned to? Port(s) to the side(s), top, bottom, or front (firing into the bench seat). What is the most efficient port design to increase air space, since its limited, a single port or double? Anyone think this is a bad idea? Nobody around here has a ported box in a standard cab truck. I like the way a ported box feels vs. a sealed box. I'm running a kicker 1000.1 amp. Any comments greatly appreciated. Quote Trunk Build Log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reinke Posted May 15, 2008 Report Share Posted May 15, 2008 i have been told that the best sound and air movement for a tuck are the port's should point to the sides. the tuning freq should be what your woofer calls for. just remember for every cubic foot of air space you should have 10 square inches of port. this will still move air and sound amazing. my box is 9.2 cubes with 92 square inches of port, with a 10% port differentil is still hadles the lows amazing and sound even better Quote ----reference's---- meade916 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackedout Posted May 15, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2008 (edited) So the dimensions of my box are Width: 45'' Height: 15'' Bottom Depth: 9'' Top depth: 6'' Subs: 2 12'' Before displacement: 2.04 After: 1.78. I was way off. I don't even have the minimum recommended volume. My subs sound great, and seem to perform well. Heres what I want to do: Width: 47'' Height: 23.5'' Bottom Depth: 9'' Top depth: 4'' Subs: 2 12'' Ports: 2 Port lengths: 10'' Each, Port style: Tube (http://www.amazon.com/Precision-Port-Flared-Tube-Kit/dp/B0002ZPR4W) Port tuning frequency: 34 Hertz Before Displacement: 2.83. After Displacement: 2.46 The subs handle 25- 500HZ. The recommended Airspace is 1.75 Cu ft for each sub. I'm about a cubic ft short. Bad idea or go with it? Thanks for your input, I appreciate it. Edited May 15, 2008 by JDirty96 Quote Trunk Build Log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean 371 Posted May 15, 2008 Report Share Posted May 15, 2008 It wont drop bottom quite like other setups would, but 1.25 cu ft per sub net will work aiiight...I would do one port to either side, drivers or passengers, not both. Quote A couple links to some box builds: Tahoe Box 1, Tahoe Box 2, Nissan Titan, VW GTI, Mini-Bump, Hummer H2, Ford F-150 My own car builds (current setup --- under construction): Overall Thread, Kickpods, Dash, Back Doors Subwoofer Wall Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sully Posted May 15, 2008 Report Share Posted May 15, 2008 use winISD and get the box tuned to as close to 32 hz as you can. If you can run ports out the sides low on the box but keep at least the width of the port distance away from the side wall of the truck if you can't do that fire the ports up. Quote 2003 Ford F-150 Reg Cab layin body on 26's 2003 Tahoe 3/5 drop on 26's with a 408cid Supercharged engine. 2011 Camaro 2SS 2005 VW GTI Stage II ECU, CAI, 3" turbo back exhaust, FMIC, lowered 2" on some plastidipped 18's 2003 Hayabusa lowered, stretched, cams, nitrous and custom paint Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noobtastic14 Posted May 15, 2008 Report Share Posted May 15, 2008 if possible run one woofer in the entire space and use the extra volume for a bigger port. my last experience 1 15 vented was louder than 2 15 sealed. although the power was not the same, experiment to get best results -Drew Quote I am a United States Military Arts and Crafts Professional. Sand it off, Paint it on. uhoh_45 said: dont be a pussy P give the jeep to drew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andym85 Posted May 15, 2008 Report Share Posted May 15, 2008 here is a box i did in a single cab ram....it had similar dimensions as yours. it was for one 12Q with two 4" aeros out the side, tuned to like 30hz....it was like 2.5cubes after all displacement.. Quote i likes me some audio stuff... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackedout Posted May 15, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2008 use winISD and get the box tuned to as close to 32 hz as you can. If you can run ports out the sides low on the box but keep at least the width of the port distance away from the side wall of the truck if you can't do that fire the ports up. I will experiment with one sub and two, make a couple different boxes. Right now, I'm just in it to learn. I can't pull great numbers with such a small truck, so all I can do is work with the equipment I got and build around it to make it sound better/ louder. Thanks again, everything helps. Quote Trunk Build Log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sully Posted May 15, 2008 Report Share Posted May 15, 2008 I've got a reg cab with 8 12's ported so you have plenty of room, it's just in the bed... Quote 2003 Ford F-150 Reg Cab layin body on 26's 2003 Tahoe 3/5 drop on 26's with a 408cid Supercharged engine. 2011 Camaro 2SS 2005 VW GTI Stage II ECU, CAI, 3" turbo back exhaust, FMIC, lowered 2" on some plastidipped 18's 2003 Hayabusa lowered, stretched, cams, nitrous and custom paint Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackedout Posted May 16, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2008 I've got a reg cab with 8 12's ported so you have plenty of room, it's just in the bed... Was thinking about it, but it wouldn't make sense. I'd have to throw down $500 on a tonneau, a $1000 on subs, $200 on dynamat, $1500 in amps, $100- $150 in wire/ connectors, $100 on building the box, $300 for mids....... $3700 in a truck worth $3000.... Btw, your trucks look bad ass. Quote Trunk Build Log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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