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I got the B2 Reference 2-way kit a couple months back. They sound fantastic but the only downside is that they are not loud enough due to the fact that they are for SQ. Now when set them up, I didn't want to much midbass if any at all from the doors because I already have 2 10's handling the lows. So now the 6.5 B2 woofer is pretty much useless and what I'm planning on doing is getting some pro audio 6.5 and keep the B2 tweeters. If I was to get some pro audio 6.5 can I use it with my existing B2 crossover? If so, can I connect both the B2 tweeter and the new 6.5 to the tweeter output on the crossover, leaving the woofer output empty? And if not, what should I do in this situation? I want to keep the B2 tweeters but also want to make my front stage much louder in terms of the highs.  

 

 

Edited by Zori.L83
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Ok so I hit the switch and this system sounds beautiful. From the tweeter being on my sail panel, it faces the dashboard on both sides. Now I just need to figure out how I can make the tweeters face m

A completely random question, but have you double checked your polarity/phase for the B2 components?  30w RMS isn't a lot of power, but in my experience, the higher frequencies (like what the tweets p

So, the high pass crossover sound be set way lower. Like 90 hz, 120 at the most. What we need to find for you is a component set that can handle all those watts! So you have front speakers hooked

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1 hour ago, Zori.L83 said:

I got the B2 Reference 2-way kit a couple months back. They sound fantastic but the only downside is that they are not loud enough due to the fact that they are for SQ. Now when set them up, I didn't want to much midbass if any at all from the doors because I already have 2 10's handling the lows. So now the 6.5 B2 woofer is pretty much useless and what I'm planning on doing is getting some pro audio 6.5 and keep the B2 tweeters. If I was to get some pro audio 6.5 can I use it with my existing B2 crossover? If so, can I connect both the B2 tweeter and the new 6.5 to the tweeter output on the crossover, leaving the woofer output empty? And if not, what should I do in this situation? I want to keep the B2 tweeters but also want to make my front stage much louder in terms of the highs.  

 

 

You want your 6.5's and your tweeters to play on the same crossover? You know the tweeters are crossed over around 2500-3000 hz ish and the mids should be about 90-125 hz through 2000-2500 hz? If you have your mids playing the same frequencies as the tweeters, you'll be losing 3/4's of the music. 

Maybe I'm misunderstanding the question? 

2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

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7 minutes ago, Dafaseles said:

You want your 6.5's and your tweeters to play on the same crossover? You know the tweeters are crossed over around 2500-3000 hz ish and the mids should be about 90-125 hz through 2000-2500 hz? If you have your mids playing the same frequencies as the tweeters, you'll be losing 3/4's of the music. 

Maybe I'm misunderstanding the question? 

Well pretty much I just want my front stage to be louder while keeping the B2 tweeters. What would you recommend I do in this situation? Cause if i get rid of the tweeters, Im pretty much ditching the B2 setup which is a waste. They are pretty pricey and I wouldnt want to throw them to the side cause its a really good set

Edited by Zori.L83
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56 minutes ago, Zori.L83 said:

Im running a Hertz HCP4DK

It does 150 watts x4 at 4 ohms

So, you're absolutely right, they are SQ components. If I'm not mistaken, that tweeter is only rated 30 watts RMS and the passive crossover will protect it. The reason the RMS is so low, is because, if I'm not mistaken, they're made of silk. 

Unfortunately, you're not making those specific tweeters louder. Put more power to them, they'll blow. 

Now, using your 6.5's on the same crossover as the tweeters is also a bad idea. What will happen is called beaming. When the speaker is playing levels within its frequency range, the sound waves travel in a wide cone type pattern, expanding as the sound waves get further from the cone. This makes the speaker multi directional. When the speaker starts to work too hard to hard reproducing tones above its frequency range, that "cone" gets drastically thinner making the speaker very directional. Meaning to hear the sound being reproduced accurately, you'd have to be sitting directly in front of it, and we know that's next to impossible in a car. 

Only solutions I can see are replace the tweeters and go active crossover, or buy another B2 Reference 2 way and double up. Sorry, I know that's not what you wanted to read. 

2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

My build log here. Check it out! 

 

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38 minutes ago, Dafaseles said:

So, you're absolutely right, they are SQ components. If I'm not mistaken, that tweeter is only rated 30 watts RMS and the passive crossover will protect it. The reason the RMS is so low, is because, if I'm not mistaken, they're made of silk. 

Unfortunately, you're not making those specific tweeters louder. Put more power to them, they'll blow. 

Now, using your 6.5's on the same crossover as the tweeters is also a bad idea. What will happen is called beaming. When the speaker is playing levels within its frequency range, the sound waves travel in a wide cone type pattern, expanding as the sound waves get further from the cone. This makes the speaker multi directional. When the speaker starts to work too hard to hard reproducing tones above its frequency range, that "cone" gets drastically thinner making the speaker very directional. Meaning to hear the sound being reproduced accurately, you'd have to be sitting directly in front of it, and we know that's next to impossible in a car. 

Only solutions I can see are replace the tweeters and go active crossover, or buy another B2 Reference 2 way and double up. Sorry, I know that's not what you wanted to read. 

Yeah thats not good lol. It looks like im gonna have to buy another set. Im gonna ditch the B2's then. I dont think i can run active because all channels are taken up on my amp. Im not trying to add another amp or anything like that. Im just going to replace the B2's as a whole. Any recommendations? Another issue is that the tweeter sits in my sail panel and i cannot fit any tweeter that is bigger than that B2 tweeter. So i kind of have to work with the dimensions i have now. Before replacing the B2's, i was thinking of doing something else. So I get rid of the crossover and 6.5. I put a coaxial 6x9 that does roughly 150w and combine that and the B2 tweeter together. In between the coax and the tweeter ill put a resistor or bass blocker and run my front channels on full range. Will that work?

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58 minutes ago, Zori.L83 said:

Yeah thats not good lol. It looks like im gonna have to buy another set. Im gonna ditch the B2's then. I dont think i can run active because all channels are taken up on my amp. Im not trying to add another amp or anything like that. Im just going to replace the B2's as a whole. Any recommendations? Another issue is that the tweeter sits in my sail panel and i cannot fit any tweeter that is bigger than that B2 tweeter. So i kind of have to work with the dimensions i have now. Before replacing the B2's, i was thinking of doing something else. So I get rid of the crossover and 6.5. I put a coaxial 6x9 that does roughly 150w and combine that and the B2 tweeter together. In between the coax and the tweeter ill put a resistor or bass blocker and run my front channels on full range. Will that work?

In theory that would work, the only thing it's you wouldn't be able to control the wattage the B2 tweeter would see and you'll probably end up blowing it. The tweeter and the woofer have such different RMS levels that the passive crossover actually protects the tweeter from being overpowered. 

The best bet I can see is just totally removing the B2 components if you're not happy with them and try to recoup at least some of the money by reselling them. Or keep them and put them in a different ride. That's what I would do anyway. 

As far as recommendations, I don't know how you prefer your music to sound to you. I've never heard the B2's, so I couldn't even tell you if the component sets I've heard would meet your needs better. I've never heard anyone complain about Rockford components. I liked my JL C7 components and I absolutely love my Memphis VIV components, but my listening preferences may differ from yours drastically. I'd hate to make a recommendation that I like, then you spend your hard earned money on, then they sound worse to you than the B2's. 

Maybe another member on the forum will see this and have a good recommendation? 

2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

My build log here. Check it out! 

 

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Posted (edited)
47 minutes ago, Dafaseles said:

In theory that would work, the only thing it's you wouldn't be able to control the wattage the B2 tweeter would see and you'll probably end up blowing it. The tweeter and the woofer have such different RMS levels that the passive crossover actually protects the tweeter from being overpowered. 

The best bet I can see is just totally removing the B2 components if you're not happy with them and try to recoup at least some of the money by reselling them. Or keep them and put them in a different ride. That's what I would do anyway. 

As far as recommendations, I don't know how you prefer your music to sound to you. I've never heard the B2's, so I couldn't even tell you if the component sets I've heard would meet your needs better. I've never heard anyone complain about Rockford components. I liked my JL C7 components and I absolutely love my Memphis VIV components, but my listening preferences may differ from yours drastically. I'd hate to make a recommendation that I like, then you spend your hard earned money on, then they sound worse to you than the B2's. 

Maybe another member on the forum will see this and have a good recommendation? 

Well i mean im kind of looking clarity but louder. My subs overpower the B2's and my subs arent crazy by any means lol. I had Focal ICU690 coaxials before and they were much much louder than these B2's but the quality was no where near the price i paid which is why i returned them and got the B2's. I knew these were SQ components but i didnt think about the lack of power they have. Which is why I wanted to do that B2 tweeter and coax combo. I thought the resistor would have helped with the wattage situation but it looks like i have really no choice but to swap.

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