As loud as possible subwoofer system recommendations (Audi A4 B5 Sedan)

[Periculum]

Sorry for posting this as I can tell it gets posted a lot. I currently have no equipment, aka no case, amp or subs. I have a Audi A4 B5

Number of subs preferred: No clue, however many required to make the most amount of noise.

Size preferred (if configuration allows): Whatever is best, here is a picture of the trunk size of the car.

https://i.imgur.com/eX1Usj4.png

Budget: 2000$ ish

Space available (take measurements, do not guess): Refer to trunk size image

Goals: Shake as much as possible within the car, and preferably outside the car. Hair tricks would also be really great.

Listening habits:  Anything that shakes

Preferred brands/subs/whatever: I like the look of ground zero subs, but I would rather have a better sub that looks worse.

[Dafaseles]

Is that $2000 for everything? Or just subwoofers and amp's? 

[Arthur79]

Hair tricks on a $2k budget will be hard (probably not impossible, but hard)  To add on to Dafaseles's question - does that budget and/or do your plans include upgrading the front stage as well or are you just looking for max bass on top of your factory system?

[Periculum]

5 hours ago, Arthur79 said:

Hair tricks on a $2k budget will be hard (probably not impossible, but hard)  To add on to Dafaseles's question - does that budget and/or do your plans include upgrading the front stage as well or are you just looking for max bass on top of your factory system?

  

6 hours ago, Dafaseles said:

Is that $2000 for everything? Or just subwoofers and amp's? 

 

 

I am thinking 2k for everything, I guess it is flexible though.

[stingray72]

im doing an fi sp4 18 v 2.1 with a taramps smart 3k .....599 for the sub with cooling option and 265 for the taramp smart 3k

[Dafaseles]

So let's start at the beginning. Head unit. For a decent aftermarket head unit, let's say $400. Our if you want to keep the stock head unit, $200 for a quality line out converter that won't give you a bunch of headaches and will make your stock eq flat. You'll need an RCA to go from the head unit to the amp, $30. You'll need about $100-$200 of cable (depending on if the amplifier needs 1/0 or 4 awg) for your big 3 upgrade and to go from the battery to the amplifier, then the ground (which you want to keep as short as possible). A fuse and a fuse holder, $40. And a remote wire for the amp, $20. 2 ring terminals for your cable, $10. So let's say $700 for the particulars. 

That leaves quite a bit for the subwoofer and enclosure. Sounds good right? Well, the problem is, you buy a big amp, now you have to power that amp. You have to upgrade your alternator which can run you up to $600-$700 for a quality alt, then $500 for a quality AGM or lithium. If you run AGM, you run the risk of needing 2, lithium you'd only need one (and in some cases, you wouldn't even need to upgrade the alt using lithium, though you can't put lithium under the hood and you'd have to do a battery delete under the hood). Now that puts you at around $1900. Not a lot for the sub, amp, and enclosure. 

That being said. Let's just focus on the sub and amp. To make sure you'd be able to easily get the enclosure in the trunk, I personally would go 2 12"s. 800 watts a piece. Usually, people who are in a budget go with Skar Audio. A pair of SVR's will do you nice. $140 a piece. Or, in my personal opinion, the Resilient Sounds Gold subs are built a little better. $290 a piece though. Although, any company with a decent name and reputation behind them would do well. Ground zero definitely being among them. If just keep the RMS around 800. Max power handling means nothing. Just go with the RMS power. 

Amplifier, my personal pick on a budget would be the Sundown Audio SIA-1750 for $280. Quality equipment and the customer service and warrantee backing of a big, established company. Can't beat that. 

Then either have a box designed for your specific application and build it yourself, or have a good, reputable shop build it for you. The enclosure is the second most important part of your install. Electrical being number 1.

Even with just that, I would recommend at least a high AH AGM for under the hood. A second in the trunk would be better, but you should be able to squeak by with 1 good battery. 80AH or more if possible. 

Sorry dude, you're not doing any hair tricks unless you take the back seat out and wall a bunch of subs. That is difficult from the trunk. Not to mention expensive! I've spent over $10k and I'm not hair tricking either.... unless I put up a wall lol. 

After you upgrade the subs, here's the thing, you'll then have a problem hearing your mids and highs. Depending on how good your stock speakers are, those 2 12's and that SIA-1750 might not drown out your mids enough to be annoying, but it's a possibility. So eventuality you'll want to upgrade your mids and highs. Good sounding components up front, decent coaxils in the back, and a 400.4 or 600.4 amplifier. That could possibly run you another $800-$1000. Car audio isn't cheap unfortunately. To be done right anyway. 

Sorry for all the reading, but there's a lot to think about with all this lol

[Periculum]

4 hours ago, Dafaseles said:

So let's start at the beginning. Head unit. For a decent aftermarket head unit, let's say $400. Our if you want to keep the stock head unit, $200 for a quality line out converter that won't give you a bunch of headaches and will make your stock eq flat. You'll need an RCA to go from the head unit to the amp, $30. You'll need about $100-$200 of cable (depending on if the amplifier needs 1/0 or 4 awg) for your big 3 upgrade and to go from the battery to the amplifier, then the ground (which you want to keep as short as possible). A fuse and a fuse holder, $40. And a remote wire for the amp, $20. 2 ring terminals for your cable, $10. So let's say $700 for the particulars. 

That leaves quite a bit for the subwoofer and enclosure. Sounds good right? Well, the problem is, you buy a big amp, now you have to power that amp. You have to upgrade your alternator which can run you up to $600-$700 for a quality alt, then $500 for a quality AGM or lithium. If you run AGM, you run the risk of needing 2, lithium you'd only need one (and in some cases, you wouldn't even need to upgrade the alt using lithium, though you can't put lithium under the hood and you'd have to do a battery delete under the hood). Now that puts you at around $1900. Not a lot for the sub, amp, and enclosure. 

That being said. Let's just focus on the sub and amp. To make sure you'd be able to easily get the enclosure in the trunk, I personally would go 2 12"s. 800 watts a piece. Usually, people who are in a budget go with Skar Audio. A pair of SVR's will do you nice. $140 a piece. Or, in my personal opinion, the Resilient Sounds Gold subs are built a little better. $290 a piece though. Although, any company with a decent name and reputation behind them would do well. Ground zero definitely being among them. If just keep the RMS around 800. Max power handling means nothing. Just go with the RMS power. 

Amplifier, my personal pick on a budget would be the Sundown Audio SIA-1750 for $280. Quality equipment and the customer service and warrantee backing of a big, established company. Can't beat that. 

Then either have a box designed for your specific application and build it yourself, or have a good, reputable shop build it for you. The enclosure is the second most important part of your install. Electrical being number 1.

Even with just that, I would recommend at least a high AH AGM for under the hood. A second in the trunk would be better, but you should be able to squeak by with 1 good battery. 80AH or more if possible. 

Sorry dude, you're not doing any hair tricks unless you take the back seat out and wall a bunch of subs. That is difficult from the trunk. Not to mention expensive! I've spent over $10k and I'm not hair tricking either.... unless I put up a wall lol. 

After you upgrade the subs, here's the thing, you'll then have a problem hearing your mids and highs. Depending on how good your stock speakers are, those 2 12's and that SIA-1750 might not drown out your mids enough to be annoying, but it's a possibility. So eventuality you'll want to upgrade your mids and highs. Good sounding components up front, decent coaxils in the back, and a 400.4 or 600.4 amplifier. That could possibly run you another $800-$1000. Car audio isn't cheap unfortunately. To be done right anyway. 

Sorry for all the reading, but there's a lot to think about with all this lol

Yikes, that's a lot of stuff. I contacted a subwoofer shop here in Norway and they recommended me this:

 

Enclosure: BB BOX 112 - B86

Sub: Ground Zero GZNW 30SPL-D2

AMP: SoundQubed U1-3000

Cables: 4CONNECT 35mm2 kabelsett

 

They told me that I would need an extra battery but alternator was apprently alright. I think the head unit is pretty decent (Might be after market, it's a kenwood I believe).

 

Total price of that system is just under 1800$

[Dafaseles]

Not a bad start. The only things I see about that are I assume they're going to tune down your amplifier so your sub doesn't see the most watts out of that amp. Which is fine. The difference probably won't even be that noticeable. And also, the D2 allows you to run that amp at 1 ohm like it was designed for, but if you save up enough for more electrical and want to keep going with your system, you'll either have to buy 2 new subs (D4's), a new amp that either can run at .5 ohms, or push 6000 watts at 2 ohm (I wouldn't be afraid to run those subs at 3000 a piece), or another U1-3000, which isn't a big deal. That's what I would do. Buy another D2 and run 2 amps. 

Anyway... to get to that shake your neighbors cupboards lose off the wall sound you're looking for. That will be a decent start until you can save up more for your electrical

[Periculum]

15 minutes ago, Dafaseles said:

Not a bad start. The only things I see about that are I assume they're going to tune down your amplifier so your sub doesn't see the most watts out of that amp. Which is fine. The difference probably won't even be that noticeable. And also, the D2 allows you to run that amp at 1 ohm like it was designed for, but if you save up enough for more electrical and want to keep going with your system, you'll either have to buy 2 new subs (D4's), a new amp that either can run at .5 ohms, or push 6000 watts at 2 ohm (I wouldn't be afraid to run those subs at 3000 a piece), or another U1-3000, which isn't a big deal. That's what I would do. Buy another D2 and run 2 amps. 

Anyway... to get to that shake your neighbors cupboards lose off the wall sound you're looking for. That will be a decent start until you can save up more for your electrical

Cool, my friend also said that I could run the current sub I have (jbl p1224) with a 3000w AMP, seems like the peak power of it is 1200w but apparently that is fine?

[Dafaseles]

7 minutes ago, Periculum said:

Cool, my friend also said that I could run the current sub I have (jbl p1224) with a 3000w AMP, seems like the peak power of it is 1200w but apparently that is fine?

I wouldn't. 

I mean, technically you can if you dial the gain way back, but then why buy a big amp?