Jump to content

*NEW BUILD* / *First "bigger" Build* 2009 GMC Sierrra SUB BUILD


Recommended Posts

 

65446778467__24763A15-3FB0-446A-9C64-EDD2F515EC92 (1).HEIC

 

Figured I would do a little build thread as I put together my first bigger system build. I have had a single 12 console for a while now and decided to change it up. Truck is 2009 gmc sierra extended cab.

 

I will be doing 2x skar vxf 15s in a rear seat delete set up. No wall just normal box set up. Amp will be a cab 4500, electrical will be 2x d3400, big 3, and mechman 370 down the road a little. 

 

I currently just started the build, removed the rear seats in the truck pulled up most carpet and sound deadened the floor. Eventually will deaden doors and roof. I am working on this build in my spare time so I dont exactly know how fast I will put it together. Hoping to be close to "finished" after black friday. For the deadener I used kilmat on amazon just cheap and decent quality for my needs, also super easy to with. ~80 mil thickness. 

 

I am waiting on a couple things to get completed, my buddy does custom wood working and getting the rear floor / amp wall dialed for me ( I will post pics ) also need couple input reducers and then I can get mostly everything installed. I have all wiring, smd, distro/ground blocks, and everything needed to install dual batts and main power run to rear except for some 2/0 to 1/0 reducers. I should have the floor in and main wiring done by next weekend or so, I will update. Wiring will be all d4s 2/0, 1/0, and 4ga for mids and highs amp. Dual 2/0 runs from auxillary d3400 battery under hood to rear smd block, dual 1/0 runs from smd block to cab 4500. ( single 4ga to skar rp 1k mids/highs amp ). Under the hood 2/0 runs fused at 450, smd block sub amp slots fused at 200 each run (400 total), 150 fuse for rp 1k

 

Current mids/highs are 4x skar fsx 6.5s, and 2x 3.5 skar tweets on skar rp 1k. Plan is custom doors after sub build. 

 

  • Like (+1 Rep) 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, CMcLane816 said:

 

65446778467__24763A15-3FB0-446A-9C64-EDD2F515EC92 (1).HEIC 2.39 MB · 4 downloads

 

Figured I would do a little build thread as I put together my first bigger system build. I have had a single 12 console for a while now and decided to change it up. Truck is 2009 gmc sierra extended cab.

 

I will be doing 2x skar vxf 15s in a rear seat delete set up. No wall just normal box set up. Amp will be a cab 4500, electrical will be 2x d3400, big 3, and mechman 370 down the road a little. 

 

I currently just started the build, removed the rear seats in the truck pulled up most carpet and sound deadened the floor. Eventually will deaden doors and roof. I am working on this build in my spare time so I dont exactly know how fast I will put it together. Hoping to be close to "finished" after black friday. For the deadener I used kilmat on amazon just cheap and decent quality for my needs, also super easy to with. ~80 mil thickness. 

 

I am waiting on a couple things to get completed, my buddy does custom wood working and getting the rear floor / amp wall dialed for me ( I will post pics ) also need couple input reducers and then I can get mostly everything installed. I have all wiring, smd, distro/ground blocks, and everything needed to install dual batts and main power run to rear except for some 2/0 to 1/0 reducers. I should have the floor in and main wiring done by next weekend or so, I will update. Wiring will be all d4s 2/0, 1/0, and 4ga for mids and highs amp. Dual 2/0 runs from auxillary d3400 battery under hood to rear smd block, dual 1/0 runs from smd block to cab 4500. ( single 4ga to skar rp 1k mids/highs amp ). Under the hood 2/0 runs fused at 450, smd block sub amp slots fused at 200 each run (400 total), 150 fuse for rp 1k

 

Current mids/highs are 4x skar fsx 6.5s, and 2x 3.5 skar tweets on skar rp 1k. Plan is custom doors after sub build. 

 

Excited to hear about it! I am doing my first “bigger” system like you. I’m jumping from one 12 on stock electrical to 2 15s on 6000watts and upgrade alt/lithium battery. Hope our systems knock our socks off!! I’ve been struggling to find time to work on my system too and my 15s have been sittin in my closet for a couple months now. Take your time and do things right tho! It’s worth it

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 minutes ago, CMcLane816 said:

I was curious Defasales, do you know anything about the RVC on our trucks? Is there a special way to big 3, or just big 2 these trucks with a second battery install? Im going to call xs power / mechman im sure they have a resolution. But figured I would ask here also, thanks! 

Yes, I've done too much damn research on them lol. Get ready to read....

So, essentially what it does it decide when to let the alternator do its thing, and when not to, saving fuel in the process. 

Normally, what I've read is, that upon startup, cold, that system can tell the alternator to charge at 15.3v (which can vary a little). Once the system decides that the alternator isn't needed as much, it can drop your volts into the low 13's. It also won't charge your battery up 100%. It'll usually stop around 90-95%. They say this helps in the longevity of your battery. 

As far as the big 3, I've got a little bit of conflicting results, as I'm sure you have as well. Steve has spoken about it lightweight on Instagram once, and in one or 2 of his Cadillac system upgrade videos, that it's more like a big 2 upgrade. You'd upgrade the cable between the negative, through the ring, onto the engine block/ alternator to the biggest you can get through there, then ground everything else straight to the alternator (of I understood him correctly). Nothing directly to the frame. I also came across the same information in a video from some dude in Canada. 

Now, talking to Tony from Mechman, I got a different answer. Upgrade that ground wire through the ring as big as you can, making sure to also keep the stock wire through there a well, but in all other aspects, ground to the frame the same way you would in the big 3/4. Don't ground anything except that specific negative to the alternator, or your get funky electrical results throughout the truck. 

Here's what I've found out about that ring specifically. My cousin has a 2013 (no system, bone stock). He though he was having a problem with his electrical, so he replaced the RVC ring. Just for shits and giggles, he took it apart. It's all plastic except for a metal pad that is connected to the ins and outs of that thing. So we concluded (not tried, but just assuming) that you can grind that ring up pretty good to fit whatever you need through there, as long as you don't damage that metal sensor. 

Here's what I ended up doing. Talking to Tony from Mechman, he linked me to a video on this subject. It doesn't go to far into depth as far as big audio systems, just on how to properly install the upgraded alternator. In that video, he mentions a short of bypass to the system. 

Our trucks, after 2006, is when they started using the RVC and converted to using a 2 pin plug into the alternator. Before 2006, no RVC, and a 4 pin plug. The exciter wire for these alternators just keeps it at a steady 14.4v. GMC hasn't changed their alternator mounting bracket since 1988. So essentially, any year alternator will fit. So I bought a new Mechman 400 amp alt for a 2005 GMC. They also sell a 4 pin plug with exciter wire. So you plug that into the alternator, and connect that wire to a 12v switched source. They also sell a sort of plug that you plug into the stock 2 pin plug that tricks the truck into thinking it's still plugged in, working like normal. Then you just zip tie that sumbitch out of the way.

Now, I'm assuming that since the truck will still think that the RVC is still controlling the charging system, (I will still have an upgrade cable going through the ring) I can ground however I want. Also, with the charging system never going over 14.8v, I won't have to worry about damaging my Limitless Lithium Cyber 12k. LifePo4 lithium banks can't take over 14.8v very well, so if my charging system decides to bump it up to above 15v, I could ruin my battery. (LTO lithium batteries can handle the 15+v). 

Also, if you keep the charging system connected, if you turn on the headlights, it'll usually keep the volts steady around the mid 14v.

2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

My build log here. Check it out! 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

WOW! Thanks for the in depth reply. Yeah, I have done so much damn research on this topic LOL! I spoke with Richard from mechman and I was a little confused on what he was saying but I believe he was saying exactly as you explained. Big 2, keep stock 4ga that runs thru RVC, add 1/0 ga thru the RVC and uprgade the postive alternator to battery. He said if I call him directly to order he would sell me the alternator with that plug I believe the same one you are talking about. Did your run your bigger ground thru the RVC to the block, like the factory one? and one to the alternator? 

 

So from gathering all this information, I think I will go the route you did, when I get my alternator.

 

Does this sound right to you - Add 1/0 ground thru RVC to block and Alternator, while keeping stock one there also. Then upgrading power wire to 1/0 from alt to primary battery. My secondary d3400 + will be paralled to primary battery and I would ground the second battery to frame and chassis but not to the alternator.

 

I plan on getting everything installed and then adding the alternator a little bit down the road. So for the time being I would just add 1/0 ground thru RVC to block, and when I get alternator I will add 1/0 thru RVC to alternator also and install the 2 pin plug deal for the altnerator. 

 

My grounds in the rear of the truck will be 1x 2/0 to frame and 1x 1/0 to inner cab metal. Thank you !

  • Thanks (+1 Rep) 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, CMcLane816 said:

WOW! Thanks for the in depth reply. Yeah, I have done so much damn research on this topic LOL! I spoke with Richard from mechman and I was a little confused on what he was saying but I believe he was saying exactly as you explained. Big 2, keep stock 4ga that runs thru RVC, add 1/0 ga thru the RVC and uprgade the postive alternator to battery. He said if I call him directly to order he would sell me the alternator with that plug I believe the same one you are talking about. Did your run your bigger ground thru the RVC to the block, like the factory one? and one to the alternator? 

 

So from gathering all this information, I think I will go the route you did, when I get my alternator.

 

Does this sound right to you - Add 1/0 ground thru RVC to block and Alternator, while keeping stock one there also. Then upgrading power wire to 1/0 from alt to primary battery. My secondary d3400 + will be paralled to primary battery and I would ground the second battery to frame and chassis but not to the alternator.

 

I plan on getting everything installed and then adding the alternator a little bit down the road. So for the time being I would just add 1/0 ground thru RVC to block, and when I get alternator I will add 1/0 thru RVC to alternator also and install the 2 pin plug deal for the altnerator. 

 

My grounds in the rear of the truck will be 1x 2/0 to frame and 1x 1/0 to inner cab metal. Thank you !

The only problem I see with your plan is (and please, someone correct me if I'm wrong) but the beginning and the end of your electrical circuit is the alternator. So if you're going to ground your amplifiers to the frame, you also need an upgraded cable from the frame, to the block/ alternator. 

Also, your alternator is also grounded through the mounting bolts, so technically, more or less, grounding to the engine block is the same as grounding to your alternator. 

2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

My build log here. Check it out! 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That makes total sense, any build I have seen with the amp to frame ground has alt grounds. I wasnt even thinking lol. I was looking at a couple on instagram, and I believe thats how steve had his caddy but I could be wrong. I just wanna make sure that I have everything properly grounded in the rear. Do you think 2x 1/0 ga grounds to bare metal in the cab will be suffiecient for my amps. Thanks. That would make things easy.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...