Jump to content

Upgrading from 8's to 10's


Champion31337
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hey guys I'm about to do an upgrade and would like to ask for some pro advice.

 

I currently have 4 DC audio M3 8 D2's wired to 1 ohm off a DC 3.5k they sound incredible and for 8's they get what I find to be pretty dang loud however I hear 3 10's would be even louder.

 

My 2 options I'm considering are DC level 3 D2's and DC level 4 D2's.  I've spoke with DC directly a few times and they are pushing the level 4 as they say they have a  more power motor.

 

The problem I have is that both options will be wired to 1.33 ohms.  The level 4's are 1,400 watt rms a piece and the level 3's are 1,000.  Wired to 1.33 the level 4's are going to be significantly under their rms rating and the level 3's will be almost spot on.

 

Let me hear from you guys which I should get!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Most importantly, do you have the air space for 3 level 4's or level 3's? Cram 3 subwoofers in a space that isn't enough for those subs, it'll sound like crap regardless of what you do. 

Other than that, I would either get D4's, and run them off that 3.5k at .6 ohm, provided your electrical support can handle it (after impedance rise, I'd be surprised if that amp ever saw less than 1 ohm regardless), or I would look into upgrading your electrical to be able to run a more powerful amplifier. Just simply upgrading to 3 10's in a new box isn't going to make HUGE gains in your output. Yes, it will probably be a little louder, but not twice as loud or anything like that. 

Edited by Dafaseles

2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

My build log here. Check it out! 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 hours ago, Dafaseles said:

Most importantly, do you have the air space for 3 level 4's or level 3's? Cram 3 subwoofers in a space that isn't enough for those subs, it'll sound like crap regardless of what you do. 

Other than that, I would either get D4's, and run them off that 3.5k at .6 ohm, provided your electrical support can handle it (after impedance rise, I'd be surprised if that amp ever saw less than 1 ohm regardless), or I would look into upgrading your electrical to be able to run a more powerful amplifier. Just simply upgrading to 3 10's in a new box isn't going to make HUGE gains in your output. Yes, it will probably be a little louder, but not twice as loud or anything like that. 

My box is 3.4 cubic feet total and almost dead on 3.0 after sub and port displacement.  Each of these subs are rated for 1.0 cubic feet.  I have big three all 0 gauge, xs power under hood and I bed.  F150 2017 V8 5.0 stock alternator.  Box tuned to 34hz.

 

Surprisingly I don't see voltage drops unless I really crank up the door speakers as well.  I have 8 mids and 8 tweeters all mids/highs on 3 amps 400 watt, 800 watt and a 2000 watt.

 

If upgrading to 3 10's on same 3500 watt amp doesn't make a huge difference then I say forget it but I've been told I'll be hitting nearly 150db with the 3 10's and I'm hitting 134db with 8's right now.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, Champion31337 said:

My box is 3.4 cubic feet total and almost dead on 3.0 after sub and port displacement.  Each of these subs are rated for 1.0 cubic feet.  I have big three all 0 gauge, xs power under hood and I bed.  F150 2017 V8 5.0 stock alternator.  Box tuned to 34hz.

 

Surprisingly I don't see voltage drops unless I really crank up the door speakers as well.  I have 8 mids and 8 tweeters all mids/highs on 3 amps 400 watt, 800 watt and a 2000 watt.

 

If upgrading to 3 10's on same 3500 watt amp doesn't make a huge difference then I say forget it but I've been told I'll be hitting nearly 150db with the 3 10's and I'm hitting 134db with 8's right now.

The main thing you're upgrading is cone area. 

With 4 8's, you have about 201 in² of cone area. With 3 10's, you'll have about 235 in². That's a pretty decent jump in area. Yeah, the subs have more motor force and can handle more wattage and all that also, but on the same amount of power, all that is minimal. 

The human ear considers a 10 or 11 decibel increase to be "twice as loud". Unless you're enclosure is perfect, 16 decibels is asking a lot. And as you get higher in the decibel range, the gains get harder and harder. 

I was just talking to a guy that upgraded from 2 15's to 3 15's on 6k. Because he went from wired to 1 ohm, to wired to 1.3, after the impedance rise of the 3 subwoofers rather than 2, he was actually quieter on the meter. Not much at all. Really it was just maybe 0.2 decibels or something like that. 

With the bigger subs, you will hit lower notes with more authority. That being said, there's a guy on another forum with 4 American Bass 8's on a SIA 3.5k hitting 147 db at 32 hz. 

I guess, what I'm trying to say is, cone area and power play a big role in your output, but the enclosure plays the biggest. By far! 

Here's what I would do. I don't know your situation, so I'm just thinking of it where me. I would save up for a high output alternator, the rest of your electrical seems really good. I would get the level 4's. I would have a box designer (or if you know how to design enclosures and have the computer software to do so) design my box to maximize the output of those subs (manufacturer specs are fine in a pinch, but 9 times out of 10, are never optimal and tuned higher than need be). Then, I either run that 3.5k at .6 ohm, or I save up for a 5k. I'd probably just run that amp at .6. Those DC amps are solid! And at .6, those level 4's will be a little underpowered, but they are a superior subwoofer to the level 3 in build quality. I've talked to plenty of people who have said the level 4 just over all sounds better and performs better than any of the other levels (excluding the big boys). 

Edited by Dafaseles

2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

My build log here. Check it out! 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'd stick with the 4 8's and go with a new box. I'm surprised you're only getting 134 db. I was running 2 8's in a hatchback and I was getting 139's at 38/39 hz. There are also a few guys with 2 8's getting 139/140 at about 32-34 hz in truck builds. 

 

One thing to remember. Are you chasing numbers or do you want to be happy with your set up? If you're chasing numbers, it's never ending. Even if you're not chasing numbers you will be always changing things but it may not be as drastic. 

  • Like (+1 Rep) 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, pnutz37 said:

I'd stick with the 4 8's and go with a new box. I'm surprised you're only getting 134 db. I was running 2 8's in a hatchback and I was getting 139's at 38/39 hz. There are also a few guys with 2 8's getting 139/140 at about 32-34 hz in truck builds. 

 

One thing to remember. Are you chasing numbers or do you want to be happy with your set up? If you're chasing numbers, it's never ending. Even if you're not chasing numbers you will be always changing things but it may not be as drastic. 

Well to be fair I have to admit, I was metered and will be at Slamology Indianapolis on a skar rp3500.  Ever since I got this DC3.5K it is NOT a placebo effect this amp shakes shit harder then the skar EVER did.  So with that said I'd like to be metered again lol.  I also had to replace my kenwood HU as it started resetting constantly.  I installed a new one 1 (alpine ilx-407 not that it matters) and everything fine.  The box is exactly 3.0 cubic feet after displacement of subs and port.  I use a round port made by "precision ports" if that matters.  Each 8 is rated for .75 cubic feet.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Man I seriously can't tell you guys how much I appreciate your help.  I really can't.  This has been a 3 year going on 4 year project with very little to no help.  I've had to research as much as I can.  It's been difficult to say the least.  I have questions on how to do things even formulas I can't find answers on to save my life.

  • Like (+1 Rep) 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 minutes ago, Champion31337 said:

Man I seriously can't tell you guys how much I appreciate your help.  I really can't.  This has been a 3 year going on 4 year project with very little to no help.  I've had to research as much as I can.  It's been difficult to say the least.  I have questions on how to do things even formulas I can't find answers on to save my life.

First off, let me start by saying I am extremely jealous of those who get to go to Slamology. I hope you stub your toe lol. (Just kidding) 

Car audio is almost like a drug dude. Once you start, it's hard to stop. It's an expensive hobby that really only stops when your broke, or you've run out of extra space in your vehicle (until you get a new vehicle). 

Any help you need, we are here to help as much as we can, with whatever. So don't hesitate.

2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

My build log here. Check it out! 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

35 minutes ago, Champion31337 said:

Well to be fair I have to admit, I was metered and will be at Slamology Indianapolis on a skar rp3500.  Ever since I got this DC3.5K it is NOT a placebo effect this amp shakes shit harder then the skar EVER did.  So with that said I'd like to be metered again lol.  I also had to replace my kenwood HU as it started resetting constantly.  I installed a new one 1 (alpine ilx-407 not that it matters) and everything fine.  The box is exactly 3.0 cubic feet after displacement of subs and port.  I use a round port made by "precision ports" if that matters.  Each 8 is rated for .75 cubic feet.

 

I dont know that PSP manufactures 8" ports which is what would be needed here. If you are doing a single 6" port your port airspeed would be some 52 m/s or basically choked. If that's the case that's costing you some serious output.

  • Like (+1 Rep) 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Joe X said:

 

I dont know that PSP manufactures 8" ports which is what would be needed here. If you are doing a single 6" port your port airspeed would be some 52 m/s or basically choked. If that's the case that's costing you some serious output.

Their calculator tells me 4 inch diameter by 7 inches length.  This port goes from front to back of box at dead center of box.  It's limited but per their specs it fits perfect.  Not saying their specs are correct but I did what they said.  I will tell ya it moves air so harsh it will swirl the whole cab at heavy low notes.  All subs share air space.  It is all 1 chamber.  Last box I had i split into 2 chambers and had 1 ports coming off each side.  I thought it was suffocating them so I made this and it did improve the low end.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 111 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
×
×
  • Create New...