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What's a good amp for a Zvx v2 12" subwoofer


BassHeadBlakeYo
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So I think it's time that I say my good byes to Taramps. But On the same note, will not give them a bad name!

I'm currently using a Taramps HD3000 2 ohm model, it sounded fine on my last build( had a triple stack audiopipe 12" ) But now that I have upgraded my subwoofer and built a custom box, The once almighty Hd3000, is under powering and feeding dirty signal to the new Zvx 12 I have.
Been looking into buying a 2nd hand sae-2000 from sundown, locally. Kinda was thinking just stuffing a rp2000 in my car but I feel like it would not be "good enough" for this new subwoofer I have. 

What's your guys opinion on a good match for this new subwoofer I have

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Did you happen to measure each voice coil separately to ensure they read the same? 

Even if, that's not too far from 2 ohms. It shouldn't be an issue. 

Any amplifier that is rated around 2000 watts at 2 ohm from a reputable company should do you fine. Taramps does put out what they claim, but I have heard people complain about the noise floor of full bridge amplifiers, but most of the time, people can't hear it. 

How did you set your gains? 

Edited by Dafaseles

2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

My build log here. Check it out! 

 

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1 hour ago, Dafaseles said:

Did you happen to measure each voice coil separately to ensure they read the same? 

Even if, that's not too far from 2 ohms. It shouldn't be an issue. 

Any amplifier that is rated around 2000 watts at 2 ohm from a reputable company should do you fine. Taramps does put out what they claim, but I have heard people complain about the noise floor of full bridge amplifiers, but most of the time, people can't hear it. 

How did you set your gains? 

just by ear

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I would buy a cheap oscilloscope, and retune that taramps before you spend hundreds of dollars on a new amp, unless you really want a new amp. Too much distortion from your head unit, or if your gain is set too high, can cause static. 

I don't think you're underpowering you're sub at all with that HD3000 at 2 ohm. That's a 1500 watt RMS sub and at 2 ohm that amp is putting out over 3000 watts. So actually, maybe instead of the oscilloscope, set your gains using a DMM so you can dial in the power at 2000 watts at 2 ohm, instead of just by ear (there are tons of YouTube videos on how to accomplish this). 

That all being said, the static very well could just be the amp. This isn't the first time I've read people complaining about the noise floor of the full bridge amplifiers. I was just trying to throw out cheaper options you could try first, if you wanted to. 

As far as if you really want to upgrade the amp, I would recommend 

The B2 Rage 2500.1

https://skyhighcaraudio.com/b2-rage-2500-1-v2/

The incriminator Audio IA-30.1

http://incriminatoraudio.com/index.php/products/amplifiers/ia30-1

The Skar SKV2 3500.1D

https://www.skaraudio.com/collections/skv2-car-audio-amplifiers/products/skv2-3500-1d-monoblock-subwoofer-car-amplifier

The Sundown SALT 2 (it says it's rated 1000 watts at 2 ohm, but it dynoed over 1500 watts at 2 ohm).

https://sundownaudio.com/lv/sa/amplifiers/salt-series/salt-2/

Our the Sundown SIA 1750 (yeah, is another full bridge amp, but I've heard nothing but good this about the SIA series) 

https://caraudiobargain.com/sundown-audio-sia-1750-watt-car-amplifier/

Like I said, you want the amplifier to get around 2000 watts at 2 ohm, not much more, because you're wiring your dual one in series. Those amplifiers you listed in your first post won't exactly work because they are rated at 1 ohm. So you would end up underpowering your sub by quite a bit. 

 

Edited by Dafaseles
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2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

My build log here. Check it out! 

 

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1 hour ago, Dafaseles said:

I would buy a cheap oscilloscope, and retune that taramps before you spend hundreds of dollars on a new amp, unless you really want a new amp. Too much distortion from your head unit, or if your gain is set too high, can cause static. 

I don't think you're underpowering you're sub at all with that HD3000 at 2 ohm. That's a 1500 watt RMS sub and at 2 ohm that amp is putting out over 3000 watts. So actually, maybe instead of the oscilloscope, set your gains using a DMM so you can dial in the power at 2000 watts at 2 ohm, instead of just by ear (there are tons of YouTube videos on how to accomplish this). 

That all being said, the static very well could just be the amp. This isn't the first time I've read people complaining about the noise floor of the full bridge amplifiers. I was just trying to throw out cheaper options you could try first, if you wanted to. 

As far as if you really want to upgrade the amp, I would recommend 

The B2 Rage 2500.1

https://skyhighcaraudio.com/b2-rage-2500-1-v2/

The incriminator Audio IA-30.1

http://incriminatoraudio.com/index.php/products/amplifiers/ia30-1

The Skar SKV2 3500.1D

https://www.skaraudio.com/collections/skv2-car-audio-amplifiers/products/skv2-3500-1d-monoblock-subwoofer-car-amplifier

The Sundown SALT 2 (it says it's rated 1000 watts at 2 ohm, but it dynoed over 1500 watts at 2 ohm).

https://sundownaudio.com/lv/sa/amplifiers/salt-series/salt-2/

Our the Sundown SIA 1750 (yeah, is another full bridge amp, but I've heard nothing but good this about the SIA series) 

https://caraudiobargain.com/sundown-audio-sia-1750-watt-car-amplifier/

Like I said, you want the amplifier to get around 2000 watts at 2 ohm, not much more, because you're wiring your dual one in series. Those amplifiers you listed in your first post won't exactly work because they are rated at 1 ohm. So you would end up underpowering your sub by quite a bit. 

 

Thanks for the list, I like each one! tbh.
but a buddy just pretty much talked me into upgrading my electrical first, before hunting down a new amp. And the cherry on top will be a oscilloscope!

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1 hour ago, BassHeadBlakeYo said:

Thanks for the list, I like each one! tbh.
but a buddy just pretty much talked me into upgrading my electrical first, before hunting down a new amp. And the cherry on top will be a oscilloscope!

100% the FIRST thing you should do is upgrade your electrical to handle your power. 

2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

My build log here. Check it out! 

 

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4 hours ago, Dafaseles said:

100% the FIRST thing you should do is upgrade your electrical to handle your power. 

Right, figure a big 3 and a 2nd battery is going to be the biggest help here.
I was offered a older xs power battery (3100d). I could get it for $100, is that a good price? and what do I need to look out for buying something like this battery?
I have a oem battery under the hood, like a liquid filled one, can I just add this to the back of my system with no problems? Do liquid filled battery's and agms play well with each other? 

Bat.jpg

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