looking to buy Looking for two budget. Powerful 15s that will be capable of 1ohm

[jgi420]

Well I sort of tuned the amp today the system sounds better I set the subsonic filter to around 25 hz and it seems like the system got louder maybe some more decimals I'm not sure 100% but I can tell by ear it sounds a little better now that I set the subsonic filter correctly. 

 

The amp clips at about the same amount of gain as on the previous subs It actually seems like I cannot go as high on the volume. 

 

I had clipping with the gain turned up about 75% and the volume on the head unit around 24 now it seems like when I set the gain level from halfway back to 75% I could only turn my head unit up to around 21 volume and I noticed the clip light come on.

 

Seems like pretty close to around the same amount of volume as before and you get clip. 

 

Now overall the new subs and the box sound different cleaner, tighter, low end  bass it seems like can't really tell If cutting the piece of carpet out of the middle of the trunk deck improved the sound of the vehicle because now I'm using the new box and the new speakers did not try the old subs in the old box before I got rid of them also I had them facing upward I got the new box facing the back of the trunk which people say will improve the sound.

 

From what I can tell, it seems like once I adjusted the subsonic filter on the amp I noticed the most improvement.

 

What I am trying to determine currently is how high of volume you can play the head unit without distortion seems like the volume maxes out at 34 or 5 I believe. 

 

Seems like with this amp and the head unit I can turn the volume up to around 21 or 22 with the gain on the amp at halfway and I get no clipping.

 

I was planning to get a newer amp closer to the RMS of the subs eventually hopefully the box wouldn't blow apart one person on YouTube said 2000 watts at most for this type of box and another person said they had two 2500 w subs running with no problems. 

 

 

The set up sounds okay all in all not much louder but cleaner lower bass. 

 

 I was hoping to get a bigger amp but it doesn't sound like it's possible to run these subs at RMS power. I only have a 240 amp alternator and I probably need 100 amp for the vehicle I am probably close to the limit. So far no fuses are blowing or anything. 

 

 

Edited January 14 by jgi420

[Kyblack76]

Whats the rating of the fuse, you are saying you arent blowning???

" So far no fuses are blowing or anything. "

And, you arent gonna "blow" any box apart. Ever. Whoever your talking to, or reading from on "youtube". Dont pay any attention to them. 

 

Blow a box apart, jesus christ. 

[jgi420]

17 hours ago, Kyblack76 said:

Whats the rating of the fuse, you are saying you arent blowning???

" So far no fuses are blowing or anything. "

And, you arent gonna "blow" any box apart. Ever. Whoever your talking to, or reading from on "youtube". Dont pay any attention to them. 

 

Blow a box apart, jesus christ. 

Well I mean on almost any enclosure. There's a chance that it will leak air the last MDF enclosure I had well the last three of them the screws all came loose from the subs. I had to turn them facing upward because they wanted to fall out of the box after a short period of time and I pre-drilled pilot holes. Even before I installed the subs I even had to move them around to three different places in almost every box I had.

 

So there is a general concern that even a Birchwood cabinet can still rattle loose or leak air If you put too much power through it. 

 

Either way, I'm not running the full amount of RMS the speakers can handle.

 

And the subwoofer amp only has an 80 amp fuse and it has not blown yet I thought that a 1500 watt amp would draw at least 85 amps so I find that a little odd.

 

 

[Joe X]

What is your amp brand name and model? What are the specs of your wiring and electrical (battery,alternator)?, do you have a big 3 upgrade?

 

 

Edited January 16 by Joe X

[Kyblack76]

On 1/15/2024 at 1:01 AM, jgi420 said:

Well I mean on almost any enclosure. There's a chance that it will leak air the last MDF enclosure I had well the last three of them the screws all came loose from the subs. I had to turn them facing upward because they wanted to fall out of the box after a short period of time and I pre-drilled pilot holes. Even before I installed the subs I even had to move them around to three different places in almost every box I had.

 

So there is a general concern that even a Birchwood cabinet can still rattle loose or leak air If you put too much power through it. 

 

Either way, I'm not running the full amount of RMS the speakers can handle.

 

And the subwoofer amp only has an 80 amp fuse and it has not blown yet I thought that a 1500 watt amp would draw at least 85 amps so I find that a little odd.

 

 

Cool. None of my enclosures even have screws. Never had a "leak" or anything break apart. Odd. 

80 amp, and not blowing the fuse. You are no where near, peak power. Not even half. Sooooo, your good. No breaking shit,.. from power anyway. 

Edit- maybe just a really poorly built enclosure.  I've never, in my decades of audio, had the privilege of seeing anyone "blow" their box apart,, unless it was a pile of wood just hucked together, or a prefab. Even then, it wasnt from "power".  But good luck to your goal mate. 

Edited January 16 by Kyblack76

[jgi420]

On 1/16/2024 at 11:45 AM, Kyblack76 said:

Cool. None of my enclosures even have screws. Never had a "leak" or anything break apart. Odd. 

80 amp, and not blowing the fuse. You are no where near, peak power. Not even half. Sooooo, your good. No breaking shit,.. from power anyway. 

Edit- maybe just a really poorly built enclosure.  I've never, in my decades of audio, had the privilege of seeing anyone "blow" their box apart,, unless it was a pile of wood just hucked together, or a prefab. Even then, it wasnt from "power".  But good luck to your goal mate. 

What my goal was is to be able to hopefully get a 3000 watt monoblock amp and be able to push these woofers at the RMS power. 

 

I double checked my fuse and it's blue. It's a 60 amp fuse so I got a 60 amp fuse running to my amp and it doesn't have any problems, so it seems kind of odd that the amp that I'm running would be putting out 1,500 watts. If my system isn't even pulling 60 amps out of the subwoofer amplifier then I don't see any reason why I couldn't buy a 3000 watt version of the same amp and get it to run. 

 

I have seen a few videos and stuff and ransom numbers but the math doesn't really compute. That's what's confusing. I mean maybe when you're using the SMD meters and stuff that's going by raw power and not actual music power musical power is different I would assume.

 

I don't see how in one of these videos a guy is claiming he's pulling 165 amps out yet. I don't seem to be pulling anywhere near that.  

 

Not trying to sound stupid here or drag the topic out but it would seem like I should be able to upgrade my amplifier and my electrical would be capable of producing enough power safely to run the vehicle and a new amp.  

 

All in all, I don't seem to notice any problems with the enclosure. It's put together well. The d4s is a pretty good enclosure for the money I don't think I'll have any problems in the future I put it together myself and I made sure, it was solid.  I think the kits they sell are pretty good

Edited January 18 by jgi420

[jgi420]

So I put the clamp meter on Cranked the volume up Got it to around 21 volume before the clip light started to go on and off  Just barely kicking on seemed like the amount of amps being pulled was maybe 26 or 28 at most.

 

That doesn't seem like a lot of power for a 1,500 watt amp also checked the resistance seems like it's wired correctly I wired it to one ohm I am seeing one ohm coming out of the box when I check the wires.

 

 

I guess everything is fairly normal this amp is doing what it's supposed to do on these speakers. Not pulling anywhere near 60 amps so I don't have to go any bigger on the fuse.  

 

Everything seems to be working in harmony I don't know why a lot of people over inflate power requirements on things.

 

 

 

Edited January 19 by jgi420

[Joe X]

The Skar Audio RP 1500.1D 1500W RMS amp which has been tested to do rated power requires a 120A fuse.

 

So your amp simply does not do rated power at all just looking at the fuse it uses.

 

And the fact that your 60A fuse in the power line never blows just gives you an idea how little power you are actually running

 

looking at the math  Power = 120A x 13V  =  1560W or just above the power rating.

 

For 60A fuse:            Power = 60A  x 13V   =  780W which never blows so you not even that (you don't even need electrical upgrades at this power).

 

Factoring in amplifier efficiency at 60A you would be delivering about 300W to each driver but again not even that.

 

I am going to guess you are actually delivering 200W to each 1250W driver or barely moving.

 

If you are comfortable at that level you could just leave it like that but what needs to be done to get those subs moving is a new amp and an electrical to match, a cheap amp that does 2500W RMS is the D4S JP23 1.5 which is 299 and is ideal for systems with light electrical upgrades.

 

 

 

 

[jgi420]

 

1 hour ago, Joe X said:

The Skar Audio RP 1500.1D 1500W RMS amp which has been tested to do rated power requires a 120A fuse.

 

So your amp simply does not do rated power at all just looking at the fuse it uses.

 

And the fact that your 60A fuse in the power line never blows just gives you an idea how little power you are actually running

 

looking at the math  Power = 120A x 13V  =  1560W or just above the power rating.

 

For 60A fuse:            Power = 60A  x 13V   =  780W which never blows so you not even that (you don't even need electrical upgrades at this power).

 

Factoring in amplifier efficiency at 60A you would be delivering about 300W to each driver but again not even that.

 

I am going to guess you are actually delivering 200W to each 1250W driver or barely moving.

 

If you are comfortable at that level you could just leave it like that but what needs to be done to get those subs moving is a new amp and an electrical to match, a cheap amp that does 2500W RMS is the D4S JP23 1.5 which is 299 and is ideal for systems with light electrical upgrades.

 

 

 

 

Correct. That seems kind of odd. It seems like the power acoustik 2500D that I had before from Walmart was putting out just as much power as the amp that I have now which doesn't seem to make sense.

 

I had the NVX XAD 11 before which was supposed to be 700w I was probably getting a lot less with that amplifier. I figured when I upgraded to the XAD12 I'd be putting out a lot more power. 

 

I guess in the car audio game it's pretty easy to be misled if you're not careful I saw some of the reviews they make it look like it's doing the amount of watts that it says that it's doing but it doesn't seem like it I see you in a couple video reviews on YouTube. Of course what I was seeing was probably not music being played through the system probably raw peak power on the bench which is different than musical amperage I get that.

 

I kind of figured something was up when I didn't really need to upgrade my fuse from the last amplifier everything seemed to play fine.

 

I guess I'll have to look into getting a different amp I guess you really have to pay attention when you're reading reviews or watching them on YouTube most people don't play the music through the system and then clamp them so you can actually see what the musical power is. 

 

 

Edited January 19 by jgi420

[Kyblack76]

Also,. google impedance (not box/enclosure) rise.  Google, read, and take some of that in.  I dont know if your going strickly for numbers in the lane, at one frequency, or if your want a daily ground pounder (sound like you want a ground pounder system) but, just looking at "this amplifier does this number at this load" is pretty useless in a daily driven audio rig. That said, it will help explain why your not seeing even remotely close to the power you think you are, or should be. Not to mention, that board/maker, most likely embellished the numbers. I do wish you the best of luck. Hell, just coming in and asking questions, and wanting to know and learn, ... you are already well ahead of most, and the curve. Cheers and best of luck. 

 

edit- also, remember, if your are looking for "large-ish" numbers. It takes power, to make power. No board on the planet can "make"  power on its own. 

Also,.. please. Please be very very carful, of who you are taking info in from please.  There is a TON of nonsense, and welp, straight bullshit out there. Do your own reading and learning mate. Sure take others info in, but be very very carful on what is out there. 

Edited January 19 by Kyblack76