Audiohz Posted May 25 Report Share Posted May 25 I have two kicker Comp q class 12’s D4’s . Would the D’Amore E1500.1 be a good choice? The subs have an rms of 850 per. Thanks. Currently using a kicker CXA 1800.1 just not impressed with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crispy_chick3n Posted May 25 Report Share Posted May 25 that cxa 1800.1 should get the job done with those subs. what kind of box are they in? what vehicle? what kind of electrical upgrades do you have done to the vehicle? Quote This page is crispy_chick3n approved. © crispy_chick3n inc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Audiohz Posted May 25 Author Report Share Posted May 25 39 minutes ago, crispy_chick3n said: that cxa 1800.1 should get the job done with those subs. what kind of box are they in? what vehicle? what kind of electrical upgrades do you have done to the vehicle? Ported enclosure 3.5 cubic total 32hz tune. 40ah lithium. 99 eclipse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Audiohz Posted May 25 Author Report Share Posted May 25 43 minutes ago, crispy_chick3n said: that cxa 1800.1 should get the job done with those subs. what kind of box are they in? what vehicle? what kind of electrical upgrades do you have done to the vehicle? The biggest turn off is I am getting a turn off thud via the amp to the subs when I shut the system off that I have never had with any amp in this car . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe X Posted May 26 Report Share Posted May 26 (edited) Your box is in the small side and I don't know how you connect your D4 subs since the cxa amp you have is only 2 ohm stable. On the E1500.1 it is a sound quality amp, you only have some daily subs, so probably it's abilities won't benefit you at all, to me you need more power, for example a skar rp-2000.1d which is only about $220 will move those subs like you want. Edited May 26 by Joe X Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Audiohz Posted May 26 Author Report Share Posted May 26 8 hours ago, Joe X said: Your box is in the small side and I don't know how you connect your D4 subs since the cxa amp you have is only 2 ohm stable. On the E1500.1 it is a sound quality amp, you only have some daily subs, so probably it's abilities won't benefit you at all, to me you need more power, for example a skar rp-2000.1d which is only about $220 will move those subs like you want. I have the newest model 46CXA1800.1T it’s 1ohm stable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Will11690 Posted May 28 Report Share Posted May 28 (edited) On 5/25/2024 at 4:17 PM, Audiohz said: The biggest turn off is I am getting a turn off thud via the amp to the subs when I shut the system off that I have never had with any amp in this car . I'm using an audio control LC6i in my ford fusion that has had the "thump"/speaker pop issue on shut off since I installed it. Typically I think the LOC(if one is being used) is the culprit here. I'm using its GTO feature to turn the LOC on which turns the system on which is where my problem comes from. If memory serves what causes it would be the head unit turning off before the amp. I didn't have much luck fixing it so I decided to live with it. If you are having a similar issue, you could try wiring in a physical shut off switch to the REM wire on your amp then try shutting it off first before you turn the car/head unit off and see if the issue still persists. From there I'm not sure what to do since, like I said, I could not figure out how to fix this issue myself. Knowing your full setup, such as factory or after market head unit, LOC(if there is one) and such would help as well. Edited May 28 by Will11690 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe X Posted May 28 Report Share Posted May 28 Ok, that amps puts out nearly 2K at 1 or 2 ohm, it has been tested with the SMD AD-1 and is in the power range of your subs, Only if you have thoroughly checked your electrical, wiring, box design, gain settings to be perfect then you can look for another amp to see if your amp is under performing for some reason. To me your box is in the smaller side 2.25 to 2.5 net with 35 square inches per driver is what you should have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Audiohz Posted May 29 Author Report Share Posted May 29 The kicker amp sounds great overall, not really looking for more on output just higher quality I guess in the line miss the Si, ZR , ZX KX lines . Been running kicker since mid 90’s just been fight to find away to stop and turn off and on pop. I have tried everything I can find . I took another amp different brand and used an old HU wired directly to my rear battery and would still get the same on and off pop. I guess I’m being way to ocd about this but I feel like this could be solved. The last thing I changed was I had two runs of 1/0 going to rear UGP 40ah and I made one into a ground. I still have a AGM xs power upfront underground told me to leave it . And not to use an isolator. Mornings my front Vm will go almost instantly to 14.5 but the Vm on the lithium slowly over about a minute will get to 14.5. During testing I even eliminated the lithium and still get the on off pop so I’m just ranting now lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe X Posted May 30 Report Share Posted May 30 If your only complaint is the tun on/off thumps that's 100% solvable and it hasn't anything to do with your wire gauge or your batteries, those problems are generally solved by at least two means: 1) delay the turn on signal going to the amp or amps. 2) delay the amplifier connection to the speakers/subs by means of the use of a relay. There are already commercial devices available to do the above fixes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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