SuzukiGS750EZ Posted June 24, 2025 Report Posted June 24, 2025 Hey guys. I have a 2014 Nissan Altima SV. Just put a Deka AGM battery in (had an optima yellowtop, they're garbage now!). Stock alternator. No big 3, yet. I run a MMATS 1400w amp and two procast 12's at 1 ohm. Knu conceptz 4ga wiring. Haven't had an issue with it. Switched headlights to LED to lighten the load on the system. I also have a singer voltage boost mod harness. I'd like to add a Skar 4 channel 100.4 800w amp for my speakers as well. Wondering what wiring configuration you all would recommend. Do i need a new/secondary battery, alternator, etc? My front and rear speakers are 3 ohm, rears are 100W RMS and fronts are 120w RMS component.
EricM9104 Posted June 26, 2025 Report Posted June 26, 2025 Swap the 4ga wiring to 1/0 and use a fused distribution block in the back to power two amps. 2015 Honda Civic LX 4dr | 110k miles | Stock 1996 GMC Yukon SLT 4dr 4wd | 260k miles | JVC Head-unit
revoracing247 Posted June 26, 2025 Report Posted June 26, 2025 Add in doing the big 3 while you're at it too. Easy and can only help If you don't already, get a fast acting volt meter and monitor it. will help immensely to see if things are playing well together for how you use it. ~ If it was easy, everybody would be doing it ~
SuzukiGS750EZ Posted June 26, 2025 Author Report Posted June 26, 2025 You mean watching the voltage dip and recover on a DMM or? I have a voltage/amperage display i've been meaning to put in. What are the odds on stock wiring i'll need a larger alternator and battery/second battery?
revoracing247 Posted June 26, 2025 Report Posted June 26, 2025 it just can depend wildly. how much voltage drop you're okay with, and the performance level you're looking for, and budget, and acceptance level of hardware breaking can make the answer you're looking for vary widely. In my experience, with what you have and if it was me. I'd look to do the big 3, try to run a second battery at the back near the amps. and then monitor voltage with how you typically use your system and be okay with needing to look for a bigger alternator. then go from there. 1500w-2000w is usually when stock electrical just doesn't cut it IMO. but my standards might be high. mind you, it'll still work just slapping a plain Jane wiring kit in, but it'll be hard on things and not perform to the equipment's full potential. But most people can't even hear that or care. So is there specifics concerns you're worried about when you ask if you "need" more electrical? I'm running 800W currently and have already done 1/0 big three, and i am planning on an alternator and converting to LTO's before i move to 1500+ watts. I don't really have any voltage drop atm. but looking back at previous builds, i kind of want to keep it that way so it's rock solid and okay doing demo's for any amount of time. if you just want short demo's every now and then for friends, but typically you're playing half volume. then you can probably get away with stock electrical. So it all just depends. Wish it was clearer cut. Hard numbers say definitely, real world use will say it'll still "work" without. (for now haha) ~ If it was easy, everybody would be doing it ~
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