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WOW!

the btls are just plain wow!

on the video's the dc's sound ok but not nearly as good as the btls!

i do believe my decision is really really leaning towards FI!!!!

ppl around here dont even have shit that shake / flex like that!!!!!!!!!!!!!

DAMN!

keep in mind for btl's to get them to play to full potential you need atleast 2500 watts..so if you decide to go with them for some good choices on amps is kicker zx2500.1 around $650 alot of people like crunch ground pounders model for around $450..so if you go with 2 btl's and 2 kickers right there you looking at $2200 right figuring each btl is around $450 depending on size..if you go with the crunch amps your looking at $1800...maybe just do 1 18'' btl?
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Nah man its cool. Everybody starts off in your shoes. We cant knock on you for having questions. We all once started out like yourself and are still continuing to learn here.

Ohms are the resistance the wiring will take. The lower the ohm, the more power and heat will run through your amplifier. At 4 ohms you will not put out barely anything a nice amplifier will do. But at 1ohm (the standard for wiring amplifiers) you pass through some heat but its not that hateful.

RMS is the thermal power handling of the subwoofer. Its basically the manufactures recommended power use for the subwoofer. Many companies will use that as their warranty reference. Say if a sub is 1000Watts RMS and you take it to 1500-2000w rms and burn up the voice coils, they will say, "well the damage was user error because you sent too much power" etc etc.

The BTL is standard at 2,000RMS watts. Now who really pushes them with 2,000 watts RMS im not sure. The standard for the BTL is more on the lines of 3-4000 rms

You may be better off with going with the FI BLs because they will need an amp that will pull A LOT of power.

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The price of subs and amp is $2400, that leaves $600 for H/U, speakers, 4-channel, and alternator.

Right... :rolleyes:

the 3000d's can run @ .5 ohm?

Yes, but that'll void the warranty.

I forgot to say in my 1st reply here, that it'd be two Level 4 15"s with lvl5 coils (D1) which would be able to wire up to 1ohm at the amp.

2015 Honda Civic LX 4dr | 24k miles

Stock H/U and mids/highs

Power Acoustik GW3-12" D2 Sub

HiFonics BXX1200.1D @ 1ohm

Random 2.5^3' dual ported box

NVX LOC

Stinger wiring throughout 

 

1977 Chevy SWB

Cammed 350

Dual exhaust

Cheap Wish stereo

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thanks alot ramen :D

and i know for a fact i gotta have more than 2500 watts....anything less just isnt enough!!!

How many watts is the kicker amp your talking about?

btw this is what its going in lol...owner b4 me had 2 l7 12's in it thats why u read kicker & nah 18 is outta the question

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(2) FI BTL 15's

(2) Sundow Audio SAZ-3000D

(1) Sundown Audio SAX-100.4

(1) Alpine iDA-X200

(3) Power Master D3100 B82REZ

(4) Boston Pro 60's Speakers

--> Knowing i'll soon hit harder than anybody within 4 countys :) Priceless

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the system in my signature wasn't more than $2400 (not counting the head unit) ...check it out.... I highly recommend the subs and rockford amps... Also E/A alts. The Infinity Kappa perfects sound fantastic but are a little lacking in mid-bass. Just look for good deals and don't buy msrp

A vitrolic, megalomaniacal sadistic psychopath.

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the system in my signature wasn't more than $2400 (not counting the head unit) ...check it out.... I highly recommend the subs and rockford amps... Also E/A alts. The Infinity Kappa perfects sound fantastic but are a little lacking in mid-bass. Just look for good deals and don't buy msrp

QUestion for you, what makes the rf amp stand out from the rest?

(2) FI BTL 15's

(2) Sundow Audio SAZ-3000D

(1) Sundown Audio SAX-100.4

(1) Alpine iDA-X200

(3) Power Master D3100 B82REZ

(4) Boston Pro 60's Speakers

--> Knowing i'll soon hit harder than anybody within 4 countys :) Priceless

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