Overheating

[Mosin]

Okay I just left and went to the Mini-Mart down the road, Engine started running above temp. so I stopped at the C-Store, opened the hood and Coolant was spraying out of the side of my engine. (Where the water pump is located)

Its done this before, but only when the engine got a little above temp. (Usually low coolant)

Then just spews it all over out the water pump area. But doesn't leak when operating at normal temp.

WTF is wrong with this?

Bad Water pump seal?

Bad Thermostat?

Edited July 1, 2008 by solo_x18

[wL<3bass]

Okay I just left and went to the Mini-Mart down the road, Engine started running above temp. so I stopped at the C-Store, opened the hood and Coolant was spraying out of the side of my engine. (Where the water pump is located)

Its done this before, but only when the engine got a little above temp. (Usually low coolant)

Then just spews it all over out the water pump area. But doesn't leak when operating at normal temp.

WTF is wrong with this?

Bad Water pump seal?

Bad Thermostat?

I was gonna say thermostat my car use to leak in the heater core added some stopleak and chanaged the thermostat and no more leak or high temps for me.

[qu1cks1lver56]

try replacing the thermostat and putting a good bead of silicon around your water pump and see if that doesnt stop it

[Mosin]

Alright Ill change the thermostat and probably try a stop leak and hopefully that addresses the problem I have.

[missinglink]

Alright Ill change the thermostat and probably try a stop leak and hopefully that addresses the problem I have.

Stop leak rarely fixes anything, but usually screws up something more expensive. It it has leaked coolant before, you have a leak. It may only leak bad when the engine is hot & coolant pressure is high, but it is still a leak you need to deal with.

What is the year / make / model / engine for the leaking vehicle?

'Link

[Mosin]

Stop leak rarely fixes anything, but usually screws up something more expensive. It it has leaked coolant before, you have a leak. It may only leak bad when the engine is hot & coolant pressure is high, but it is still a leak you need to deal with.

What is the year / make / model / engine for the leaking vehicle?

'Link

1992 Dodge Dynasty 3.0L SOHC AKA the car the 4 15's are going in.

The only thing that sucks is the water pump is connected to the timing belt under one of the motor mounts, so changing that is gonna be a bitch if I have too.

[missinglink]

1992 Dodge Dynasty 3.0L SOHC AKA the car the 4 15's are going in.

The only thing that sucks is the water pump is connected to the timing belt under one of the motor mounts, so changing that is gonna be a bitch if I have too.

That year of Dynasty should have the timing belt replaced every 60,000 miles. You really do not want to break the belt, it usually destroys the engine.

Because the belt is a scheduled replacment item, the job is not too bad. You need to put the car on stands, and pull the right front wheel & inner fender to get at everything. Once you have all of the accesory drives removed, and the acessories out of the way you can jack up the engine a bit & remove the mount.

At that point you can pull the crank pulley & timing belt cover. Watch the bolt lengths on the cover, there are several different bolts. Then you can replace the belt. If you do not change the waterpump while you have the belt out, you are a damn fool. The book labor time is 4.6 hours to do a timing belt & water pump. The water pump part of that is .7 hours - the rest is the belt. You should be able to do it in a day in the driveway.

I would recomend an AllData subscription if you plan to do that job. Worth every penny. Probably a 500 to 600 buck job if you take it someplace.

You say it overheats due to "low coolant". It is probably leaking a little all the time. Because of where the leak is, you don't see a drip - it evaporates or is sprayed off by the belt. That car should go months without a coolant level drop.

How many miles are on the car?

'Link

[Mosin]

That year of Dynasty should have the timing belt replaced every 60,000 miles. You really do not want to break the belt, it usually destroys the engine.

Because the belt is a scheduled replacment item, the job is not too bad. You need to put the car on stands, and pull the right front wheel & inner fender to get at everything. Once you have all of the accesory drives removed, and the acessories out of the way you can jack up the engine a bit & remove the mount.

At that point you can pull the crank pulley & timing belt cover. Watch the bolt lengths on the cover, there are several different bolts. Then you can replace the belt. If you do not change the waterpump while you have the belt out, you are a damn fool. The book labor time is 4.6 hours to do a timing belt & water pump. The water pump part of that is .7 hours - the rest is the belt. You should be able to do it in a day in the driveway.

I would recomend an AllData subscription if you plan to do that job. Worth every penny. Probably a 500 to 600 buck job if you take it someplace.

You say it overheats due to "low coolant". It is probably leaking a little all the time. Because of where the leak is, you don't see a drip - it evaporates or is sprayed off by the belt. That car should go months without a coolant level drop.

How many miles are on the car?

'Link

Just touched 160K

I believe the engine was completely rebuilt at 135K

Would one of the Chiltons Complete Auto Manuals for my car work too?

So when I do this, just change the pump and the timing belt correct?

[missinglink]

Just touched 160K

I believe the engine was completely rebuilt at 135K

Would one of the Chiltons Complete Auto Manuals for my car work too?

So when I do this, just change the pump and the timing belt correct?

The Chilton manual is ok, as long as it covers what you want to fix. They are vague on A/C, but usuallu OK on things like timing belts.

You might want to pick up a waterpump gasket for that car, and study it while looking at where you see the leak when hot. There are a couple of areas on that gasket where the gasket is narrow, and the span between bolts is long.

Given that this is a pain in the ass to get to, you want to make sure you are fixing the actual leak...

If the engine was rebuilt @135k, then you are not due for a timing belt yet. You can go ahead & replace it now if you want to - or do the job again in 35k miles & save 75 bucks for now. Depends on how your finances look, and if you plan to keep the car a long time.

'Link

[Mosin]

The Chilton manual is ok, as long as it covers what you want to fix. They are vague on A/C, but usuallu OK on things like timing belts.

You might want to pick up a waterpump gasket for that car, and study it while looking at where you see the leak when hot. There are a couple of areas on that gasket where the gasket is narrow, and the span between bolts is long.

Given that this is a pain in the ass to get to, you want to make sure you are fixing the actual leak...

If the engine was rebuilt @135k, then you are not due for a timing belt yet. You can go ahead & replace it now if you want to - or do the job again in 35k miles & save 75 bucks for now. Depends on how your finances look, and if you plan to keep the car a long time.

'Link

Alright, I bought the water pump today and it has the gasket with it.

putting a silicone sealant on it with the gasket will cause problems right?

I might as well change the belt now, save time later.

Well, under the motor mount bracket (where the pump is located) is where the leak is coming from, but I can't see exactly where its coming from.

Anyways, when I get started on it tomorrow, change the belt, pump and flush the whole coolant system?