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yes get a bigger alt. Not only do you have to worry about your stereo but you also have to worry about all the other accesories that run in your car: lights a/c engine yada yada yada. Better batteries are just going to hide the real problem for a while until your alt cant handle the extra abuse the stereo is going to put on it.

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thanks for all of the input. i'm kinda confused now haha. so then I can just upgrade my alt to a 205 alt and get 1 yellowtop and we will be fine with my setup? what's the deal on the alt not having enough power to charge up the 2 yellowtops?

you only have to worry about the alt overworking if you play your stereo with the car off for a long time. once you drain the bat in the back the alt is now trying to fully charge both bats to my understanding. i have two bats in my benz, upgraded wiring, running off the stock alt and have no dimming at all. but i am running just over half of what you'll be running. and my stock alt is only 55a!!! unless your planning on competing or sitting in a parking lot blasting all day, i wouldn't stress over a new alt just yet.

Edited by benz280se
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adding batteries is only a band-aid- it will just take longer to depleat the batteries, because the alternator is not putting back in, what the system is taking out.

Most vehicles use 40-60 just to run the stock systems on the vehicle: headlights, AC, ignition, fans, fuel pump, etc.. You have to add the amperage that your Amplifiers consume to 40-60 amps to arrive at the vehicles total amperage consumption "worse case". (meaning with the system cranked, headlights and AC on)

Also, you have to remember that all alternators are rated at cruising speed. For example, a stock 105 amp GM alternator only puts out about 70 amps at idle. A 205 amp "overwound" small case alternator will only put out about 50 amps at idle. It is easy to see how fast you run out of amperage, especially at idle.

Our 250 amp StreeBeater large case alternators put out 150 amps at idle, and you would easily use all 150 amps with your setup. Upgrading the alternator will keep your voltage higher, and save you headaches down the road, no matter how many batteries you choose to run.

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oh really? thanks for the info. Since I am planning to keep this setup for a while, it would be safest to just upgrade my alt (when my setup changes, it will just be more power, not less)?

Now, a couple more questions :)

How do I know what the amperage is while idling when I research different alts to buy?

Other than powermaster, what other brands/models are recommended? I have a 2001 grand prix gt 3.8L.

-Preferably something that gives me a high ouput at idle

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oh really? thanks for the info. Since I am planning to keep this setup for a while, it would be safest to just upgrade my alt (when my setup changes, it will just be more power, not less)?

Now, a couple more questions :)

How do I know what the amperage is while idling when I research different alts to buy?

Other than powermaster, what other brands/models are recommended? I have a 2001 grand prix gt 3.8L.

-Preferably something that gives me a high ouput at idle

normally the maker(company) would state the idle amperage. or you can have it tested somewhere.

look into Dominick alternators, excessive amperage, stinger

2-DC 15XLM2 D.7s

1-DC 5K amp

(1) XS Power D6500(UNDERHOOD) and (1) XS3000(REAR)

3 runs 1/0ga for power and 2 runs of 1/0ga for negative.

(2)-RFT165s components, ...... 4 separate 1 inch tweetersRF T600-2(fronts) Punch 450.4(rear)

Audiocontrol 3.1.

DC power 260amp alternator w/MLA Module

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oh really? thanks for the info. Since I am planning to keep this setup for a while, it would be safest to just upgrade my alt (when my setup changes, it will just be more power, not less)?

Now, a couple more questions :)

How do I know what the amperage is while idling when I research different alts to buy?

Other than powermaster, what other brands/models are recommended? I have a 2001 grand prix gt 3.8L.

-Preferably something that gives me a high ouput at idle

To my knowledge, we are the only alternator company that includes a dyno-graph print-out showing the entire output curve of the alternator. Each one is hand tested and initialed before it gets put into it's shipping container. Our 250 amp units do a minimum of 150 amps at idle, or otherwise they don't pass inspection.

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