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the btls are true power..

not some bs bloated rating.

true 2000 watts rms aint no joke. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/public/style_emoticons/default/hairtrick.gif

yea i know... r there any wit 2500-3000 true rms?

caus if there were i'd do one 15-18 inch compared to 2 12s of the btls or hdc3s

Ride: 2001 BMW325ci

Headunit: Alpine ida-x305

High/mid: stock harmon/kardon everything: 6 tweets, 1 set of 6.5" and 1 set of 6x9, 500rms total

Sub: (1) 15" DC Audio Level 5 D2 ohm

Amp for sub: MTX 4001d

Box: custom built 3.5 cuft ported

Power: 220amp alt from ohio gen, 2 kinetik 2400s in back

(Armoredhaulin @ May 29 2009, 08:34 AM)

Why waste your time with this tool? His system sucks, that's all there really is to it. My toilet puts out more low end and flex than that thing!

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A better choice to go with a 14-volt setup and to address how much you stock alternator is producing. Ask your local atuo parts store if they can test your charging system in your car and while you are there ask what a replacement alternator would cost when they look up a factor alternator it will indicate what the amperage is for that unit installed. Now you have your actual voltage supply and your cars amp rating for the alternator. Bad news is you may find out your alternator is only going to produce mid 13-volts not 14-volts, good news is you will see the current condition of your charging system.

With your stock system how are you or how did you connect you subs into the system. What did you use for a crossover is it built into your amp?

With you current system if you want it louder inside the car then try and remove your rear speakers if they are mounted on your rear package shelf. Allow for more pressure from you trunk into your car, something to try.

Rear firing setup as for subs go this is when your sub enclosure is mounted behind your rear seat in your trunk and the subs and ports are facing the rear of your car.

More research is in store for you before you proceed on you system upgrade. Spend some time learning about speaker impendence and wiring of your subs to produce different loads that will be connected to your amp, very important that you get this part down so you don’t blow any of your amps up before you get to enjoy them. Put a wrong or too low of a load (impendence) on a amp and you are going to say bye bye to that one can I have another please. If you can pick up a DMM (Digital multi-meter) will come in handy during your install and for future troubleshooting.

Still my .02 on your next step should be to upgrade your wiring, upgrade your HU and front speakers add a 50-100 watt per channel amp for your mids/highs. Leave out your rear speakers if they are mounted on the rear shelf for pathway for your subs into your car. And build a ported box for your existing speakers with the subs and ports facing the rear of your car.

Tried not to get to long winded on this one.

k i will get my alt checked out, u think itd cost much? and do u hav any idea how much a alt upgrade would be? or does it depend.. and how big of one i'd need to fully power 4400rms?

im pretty sure the crossover is built in. but im not sure wat that is. my friend helped with the install. i know we ran a wire from the amp to the deck, which is attached to the stock system and stock amp.

how would takein out the rear speakers make it louder? those bigger speakers put out alot themselves..

so for the rear firing i'd want the face of the subs and the ports facing away from the interior of the car. how would it make a difference if they subs pointed up? towards the interior?

so impedance is the minimal load it can handle? yea i need to find out alot more info b4 install, but my friends also hav more experience and r helpn me.

yea i am gettin a new deck for all this now and i plan on soon gettin a couple 4 channels for all the speakers (6 tweeters, 2 5x5, 2 6x8?) but for now i hav plenty of treble.

for my box now, could i just make some ports in the existing box for the time being? becaus i dont want to build a whole new box for them when im guna take them out soon

thanks for all the help

Ride: 2001 BMW325ci

Headunit: Alpine ida-x305

High/mid: stock harmon/kardon everything: 6 tweets, 1 set of 6.5" and 1 set of 6x9, 500rms total

Sub: (1) 15" DC Audio Level 5 D2 ohm

Amp for sub: MTX 4001d

Box: custom built 3.5 cuft ported

Power: 220amp alt from ohio gen, 2 kinetik 2400s in back

(Armoredhaulin @ May 29 2009, 08:34 AM)

Why waste your time with this tool? His system sucks, that's all there really is to it. My toilet puts out more low end and flex than that thing!

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yea i know... r there any wit 2500-3000 true rms?

caus if there were i'd do one 15-18 inch compared to 2 12s of the btls or hdc3s

5000WRMS

http://www.audiopulse.com/products/subwoof...ivers/lms-ultra

but wayyyyyy over priced

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2007 Chevy HHR LT

UNDER CONSTRUCTION

1st Place Loud N Low 2010 MWSPL Finals

3rd Place Xtreme 3 2010 MWSPL Finals

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holy shit, $2000 for one 18. but at 5000rms thats sick

Ride: 2001 BMW325ci

Headunit: Alpine ida-x305

High/mid: stock harmon/kardon everything: 6 tweets, 1 set of 6.5" and 1 set of 6x9, 500rms total

Sub: (1) 15" DC Audio Level 5 D2 ohm

Amp for sub: MTX 4001d

Box: custom built 3.5 cuft ported

Power: 220amp alt from ohio gen, 2 kinetik 2400s in back

(Armoredhaulin @ May 29 2009, 08:34 AM)

Why waste your time with this tool? His system sucks, that's all there really is to it. My toilet puts out more low end and flex than that thing!

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This thread went from ppl trying to help you to you not thinking a BTL is gonna be enough for you....a single 12" btl would prolly make you crap your pants.

Vehicle: 1997 S10 Blazer 4dr 4X4

Exterior: Rear End Bagged, Black Grill, Lifted 2"

Amplifiers: Rockford Fosgate T8004 & T10001bd

Batteries: 2 Stinger SPV35, Kinetik HC2400

Electrical: Big 3, DC Power 290amp Alternator w/ MLA at 15.5v

Enclosure: 4.2 ft³ @ 33Hz 84sq.in. of port (20sq.in. per cube)

Headunit: Eclipse CD3200 w/ 80G iPod

Mids/Highs: Rockford T152s (a-pillars), Rockford T162s (doors)

Subwoofers: 1 15" Fi BL Fully Loaded

Wire: All 1/0g Kicker Hyperflex

My YouTube Videos

My Fiberglass A-Pillar Build

My "Seamless" Looking Box Build

My DD1508 T-Line Bandpass Build "Seamless" w/ Acrylic Windows (for '05 TrailBlazer)

My Stealth 8" Fiberglass Build (for '05 TrailBlazer)

My Build For A Friend's '08 Cobalt 15" BL Sealed Off From The Trunk

My feedback/references...

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are soundstream xxx amps and subs expensive?

Ride: 2001 BMW325ci

Headunit: Alpine ida-x305

High/mid: stock harmon/kardon everything: 6 tweets, 1 set of 6.5" and 1 set of 6x9, 500rms total

Sub: (1) 15" DC Audio Level 5 D2 ohm

Amp for sub: MTX 4001d

Box: custom built 3.5 cuft ported

Power: 220amp alt from ohio gen, 2 kinetik 2400s in back

(Armoredhaulin @ May 29 2009, 08:34 AM)

Why waste your time with this tool? His system sucks, that's all there really is to it. My toilet puts out more low end and flex than that thing!

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that audiopulse is meh for 2k for 1k yea id look at it but for 2k no thanks way to many subs out there that i can get the same results with for a fraction of the cost

wat other subs hav 5000rms?

wats louder - 18" audiopulse lms or 2 12' btls/hdc3s

Ride: 2001 BMW325ci

Headunit: Alpine ida-x305

High/mid: stock harmon/kardon everything: 6 tweets, 1 set of 6.5" and 1 set of 6x9, 500rms total

Sub: (1) 15" DC Audio Level 5 D2 ohm

Amp for sub: MTX 4001d

Box: custom built 3.5 cuft ported

Power: 220amp alt from ohio gen, 2 kinetik 2400s in back

(Armoredhaulin @ May 29 2009, 08:34 AM)

Why waste your time with this tool? His system sucks, that's all there really is to it. My toilet puts out more low end and flex than that thing!

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This thread went from ppl trying to help you to you not thinking a BTL is gonna be enough for you....a single 12" btl would prolly make you crap your pants.

i was thinkin 2 12" btls or hdc3s. but now the idea of one 18" isnt bad either. i just wana find one with enough handling

Ride: 2001 BMW325ci

Headunit: Alpine ida-x305

High/mid: stock harmon/kardon everything: 6 tweets, 1 set of 6.5" and 1 set of 6x9, 500rms total

Sub: (1) 15" DC Audio Level 5 D2 ohm

Amp for sub: MTX 4001d

Box: custom built 3.5 cuft ported

Power: 220amp alt from ohio gen, 2 kinetik 2400s in back

(Armoredhaulin @ May 29 2009, 08:34 AM)

Why waste your time with this tool? His system sucks, that's all there really is to it. My toilet puts out more low end and flex than that thing!

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Share on other sites

that audiopulse is meh for 2k for 1k yea id look at it but for 2k no thanks way to many subs out there that i can get the same results with for a fraction of the cost

in ur pic wat amp is that? 6500?

Ride: 2001 BMW325ci

Headunit: Alpine ida-x305

High/mid: stock harmon/kardon everything: 6 tweets, 1 set of 6.5" and 1 set of 6x9, 500rms total

Sub: (1) 15" DC Audio Level 5 D2 ohm

Amp for sub: MTX 4001d

Box: custom built 3.5 cuft ported

Power: 220amp alt from ohio gen, 2 kinetik 2400s in back

(Armoredhaulin @ May 29 2009, 08:34 AM)

Why waste your time with this tool? His system sucks, that's all there really is to it. My toilet puts out more low end and flex than that thing!

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