dmanson Posted August 19, 2008 Report Posted August 19, 2008 1000 RMS might be a little much for them as there only rated 500 RMS. Maybe 2 40001BDs. Series/Parallel each set of 4 (DVC 4 ohms) for a load of 2 ohms, then connect 2 sets of 4 in parallel for 1 ohm, if that makes any sense lol what the hell am i thinking ... they are 500rms apiece. well two of the T40001bds will do but he already has his heart set on his amps he has now. can't wait to see what this thread produces. 2-DC 15XLM2 D.7s 1-DC 5K amp (1) XS Power D6500(UNDERHOOD) and (1) XS3000(REAR) 3 runs 1/0ga for power and 2 runs of 1/0ga for negative. (2)-RFT165s components, ...... 4 separate 1 inch tweetersRF T600-2(fronts) Punch 450.4(rear) Audiocontrol 3.1. DC power 260amp alternator w/MLA Module
Dozier Posted August 19, 2008 Author Report Posted August 19, 2008 The last box I built I did not completely finish on the sides due to the bass not being what I wanted. I will finish this one this time to the sides of the truck sealing off the rear from the front. www.AlabamaDrift.com04 Silverado in the works
IH8PunkRok Posted August 19, 2008 Report Posted August 19, 2008 im gonna be watchin this build fo sho man -Matt2005 Dodge Magnum RTJVC KD-AVX1 2 PPI S580.2 Obsidian Audio ST1 Horn Tweeters PRV 8MB450s Audio Legion 3500.1D 2 RE MT 18s 360 ah LiFePO4 BatterySHCA 2/0 155.2 @ 29 hzKicker CVR 15's buildDD 3512e buildMini T-Line Build(6) 8s BuildNightshade 15s Wall BuildMagnum AB XFL 12s BuildNewest Magnum Build
EricR Posted August 19, 2008 Report Posted August 19, 2008 the bass you wanted to hear was not because of the subs though, it was the box. i was thinking leave the 12 sitting in the box in the hole and duck tape from the bottom of the sub to the bottom of the baffle so the sub doesnt free air. would that work?
Dale Posted August 19, 2008 Report Posted August 19, 2008 Dozier, do you think that the setup of the 12s will out-wang the 18s?
01xtreme Posted August 19, 2008 Report Posted August 19, 2008 Dozier, do you think that the setup of the 12s will out-wang the 18s? he is going to have substantially more cone area, but it is probably going to be sealed (i would imagine). I am going to go with yes, but im not 100%. however I am positive that it will beat like a mother. My System: Pioneer AVH-P3200BT 4-Dayton 7 inch reference series (front doors) 8-Onkyo 3/4 inch tweeters (dash) 1-Sundown Audio 100.4D (mids/highs) 2-18" BTL's (for now) Crescendo 3kwp (for sale) Complete rebuild coming soon...
assman Posted August 20, 2008 Report Posted August 20, 2008 Dozier, do you think that the setup of the 12s will out-wang the 18s? he is going to have substantially more cone area, but it is probably going to be sealed (i would imagine). I am going to go with yes, but im not 100%. however I am positive that it will beat like a mother. I was thinking the same thing.I am louder with my 30-10's sealed with 20,000 watts then i was with the 6 18s ported and 24,000 watts. Assman IdustriesFear The DuckTeam Notoriously Loud Mafia
Dale Posted August 20, 2008 Report Posted August 20, 2008 I was thinking the same thing.I am louder with my 30-10's sealed with 20,000 watts then i was with the 6 18s ported and 24,000 watts. Yes Randy, I did notice that your ASS-tro (lol) got substantially louder with the 10s. I guess cone area > power
assman Posted August 20, 2008 Report Posted August 20, 2008 Yes Randy, I did notice that your ASS-tro (lol) got substantially louder with the 10s. I guess cone area > power yeah cone area and the right sized box.The box for my 6-18's was all wrong and i didnt feel like rebuilding the whole thing. Assman IdustriesFear The DuckTeam Notoriously Loud Mafia
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