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I just read the thread for the first time hehe. Im glad you guys like my truck it really means a lot considering the history of the truck and how far its come. Back on subject.

The good

Its an 84

bagged

body dropped

shaved

B&M shifter

the bad

no rims

Its an 84

bagged

body dropped

shaved

B&M shifter

Ricer steering wheel

Pan Hard bar

Ok i really would hesitate on this one. Whys he selling it? Is he selling it cuss he got in over his head? What kind of craftsmanship went into the build. He states theres a pan hard bar so theres probably a cast iron stock rear end. Thats not going to work for a v8 so your gonna have to put a new rear end in it and ditch the panhard bar. how much bondo is in the shave job? theres no interior. Is that because its a traditional body drop so now you have to fab up the interior. If so how much did he cut into the floor. Did he cut to much and now big people wont fit in it with out hitting there heads. If its stock floor did he use the proper steel to reinforce the frame. the bag jobs only 25% done. Are all the parts there to finish it? it says its ready for a v8. does it come with v8 motor mounts. what size is the radiator. Is the radiator for a 2 liter inline 4 if so you need a new one. did they cut the floor and make room for a 700 r4. Is the shifter for a 700 r4? did they cut the bed? has it been wrecked is it a salvage title. weres the gas tank. has the gas tank been moved. if so was it done right. is all the glass there. did they weld on and grind on the truck pitting the shit out of the glass? what size are the 4 link bars. were and how was the bags mounted what brand and size bags did they use. Whats with the ricer steering wheel?

that should get you started :) just copy and paist that in a email and see what the guy says.

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I just read the thread for the first time hehe. Im glad you guys like my truck it really means a lot considering the history of the truck and how far its come. Back on subject.

The good

Its an 84

bagged

body dropped

shaved

B&M shifter

the bad

no rims

Its an 84

bagged

body dropped

shaved

B&M shifter

Ricer steering wheel

Pan Hard bar

Ok i really would hesitate on this one. Whys he selling it? Is he selling it cuss he got in over his head? What kind of craftsmanship went into the build. He states theres a pan hard bar so theres probably a cast iron stock rear end. Thats not going to work for a v8 so your gonna have to put a new rear end in it and ditch the panhard bar. how much bondo is in the shave job? theres no interior. Is that because its a traditional body drop so now you have to fab up the interior. If so how much did he cut into the floor. Did he cut to much and now big people wont fit in it with out hitting there heads. If its stock floor did he use the proper steel to reinforce the frame. the bag jobs only 25% done. Are all the parts there to finish it? it says its ready for a v8. does it come with v8 motor mounts. what size is the radiator. Is the radiator for a 2 liter inline 4 if so you need a new one. did they cut the floor and make room for a 700 r4. Is the shifter for a 700 r4? did they cut the bed? has it been wrecked is it a salvage title. weres the gas tank. has the gas tank been moved. if so was it done right. is all the glass there. did they weld on and grind on the truck pitting the shit out of the glass? what size are the 4 link bars. were and how was the bags mounted what brand and size bags did they use. Whats with the ricer steering wheel?

that should get you started :) just copy and paist that in a email and see what the guy says.

you missed the part about it has a 4link AND a panhard bar, haa haa ha !!! now is it a ''4 '' link, cause even a parralell ''4link '' is a actual 2 link , so you never know what some one has done to their shit ............... :unknw:

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well i have decided against this truck from what all of u say its basicly worth less so im looking at a 88 tomarrow and if all goes as planed ill have a project s10 oh and i copy and pasted that then got his email and sent it to him and he said whats with all the Qs??? so he is defenitly hiding somethin

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i myself personally WOULD NOT !! , there aint much left of that truck , he says its has a 4link AND a panhard bar , you use a panhard bar for a 2link, so it sounds like he doesn't know what he is talkin about on his own truck !!! you would have to put a pretty good amount of money to get it driveable, so my suggestion is to buy a complete truck and bodydrop it yourself and get new air suspension parts , 7 out of 10 times with a truck in that shape ,your buying someone elses nightmare, thats why they didn't finish it . you never know but if you price it all out , the difference between that one and one you can pick up for real cheap but running and functional, i am pretty sure you will see it would better to let that one go and get something like i mentioned !!! think long about it before you fork your cash over............. good luck

It could have a parallel 4 link that would still necessitate a panhard but you'd still be better off with a watts link, but that's besides the point.

Good call on not getting it. I bought a full running and driving 91 s-10 with the 2.8L v6 for $500. Like it's been stated, you'd be MUCH better off doing it your way.

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you missed the part about it has a 4link AND a panhard bar, haa haa ha !!! now is it a ''4 '' link, cause even a parralell ''4link '' is a actual 2 link , so you never know what some one has done to their shit ............... :unknw:
He states theres a pan hard bar so theres probably a cast iron stock rear end. Thats not going to work for a v8 so your gonna have to put a new rear end in it and ditch the panhard bar.

I havnt seen to many s10s with parallel 4 links cuss theres to much stuff in the way. I just assumed he couldn't get the 4 link triangulated correctly because of the cast iron pumpkin. Im haveing kind of the same issue I have to much flex in my bushings causing the rear end to flex side to side. Im going to add some jonny joints if that doesnt work im adding a watts link.

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Jonny joints are the shizzzz. I had a wishbone link in my fullsize that utilized 1 jonny joint and 2 urethane bushings. Granted, I sold it before I had it on the road, but pushing on it I got no side to side movement.

PM me some pics of your setup BigP. I'm not on here a lot, more so ROE, but it's been retarded lately... :roll:

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well i have decided against this truck from what all of u say its basicly worth less so im looking at a 88 tomarrow and if all goes as planed ill have a project s10 oh and i copy and pasted that then got his email and sent it to him and he said whats with all the Qs??? so he is defenitly hiding somethin

you know damn well you would of been stupid to buy that wreck , i hope you find something alot better for around the same price , just be patient .....

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I havnt seen to many s10s with parallel 4 links cuss theres to much stuff in the way. I just assumed he couldn't get the 4 link triangulated correctly because of the cast iron pumpkin. Im haveing kind of the same issue I have to much flex in my bushings causing the rear end to flex side to side. Im going to add some jonny joints if that doesnt work im adding a watts link.

instead of going out from the pumpkin with your upper bars , put the tabs closer to the wheels and go in to a crossmember ( |/\| ), i know you like that key board sketch !!!! , what im saying is triangle them in , like suicide doors wishbone 4link kit , that way you dont have to f-ck with the pumpkin. i hear you cant get much lift with a watts link , i was thinking of that but im pretty sure if your doing bags on bar setups , your lift is limited, the watts link works best for bags on axle setups. all the ones i see dont seem like they get more than 8-10'' of lift before the bars are pulling on each other, kind of the same princable as a 50/50 setup, yeah , i know , i got one on the toy... :sorry: tell me what you guys think of the watts link..........

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I havnt seen to many s10s with parallel 4 links cuss theres to much stuff in the way. I just assumed he couldn't get the 4 link triangulated correctly because of the cast iron pumpkin. Im haveing kind of the same issue I have to much flex in my bushings causing the rear end to flex side to side. Im going to add some jonny joints if that doesnt work im adding a watts link.

johnny joints are super pivot joints ( suicide doors ) mega-flex joints (fbi ) , you really think those joints are gonna stop the flex ? you must have ALOT of play between your bushing ends and your tabs . are your trianglated bars at enough of an angle to cease all side-to-side movement. ( at least 30 degrees ) it just sounds to me like there is more factors than your bushings to be making your axle move side-to-side , unless you are talkin 1'' or less.. correct me if im wrong P.

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