Factory Radio To Amp

[BassJunkie]

Wow, do you know how to use your eyes? Do you not see that picture of a SUBWOOFER AND AMPLIFIER in my sig? I own those.

I make around 1k a month, I have a problem with saving cash.

I also don't have a driver's license so I'm not too worried about buying a car right away if it's gonna do nothing but sit in my mom's driveway.

You just don't know when to stop do you?

[audiofanaticz]

Ok, i'm assuming your doing this in the trunk of your car. I got in my trunk and pulled some of the extra wire in the rear deck speakers out and took a razor knife and cut out a section of the insulation twisted the high output converter wire to it, black taped it and repeated for both positive and negative.

This works, but I find to use scotch locks are much easier to use, and less time consuming and offer a tight connection that wont untwist of come lose. Plus you wont have to electrical tape the wires up after words. Youll be cutting at least 15+ minutes off your installation time.

Line output converters are a breeze to wire up.

Most line output coverters have 5 wires, and 2 rca jack outputs, which go from the converter to the aftermarket amp.

2 wires are for the left channel, 2 wires are for the right channel, and the single black wire is a ground.

There is usally 2 white wires and 2 gray wires. The wires with the black strip down them are negative speaker wires, while the solid color wire is the speaker positive wire. The white set of wires get wired up to the left (driver side) speaker, the gray wires get wired up to the right (passenger side) speaker.

If using the scotchlok's to connect the wires, it should take you around 10-15 minutes tops install time for a first timer, otherwise around 30 minutes if you have to strip the rubber insulation off the speaker wires, then wire it up, then tape it.

There maybe 2 gain style looking knobs on the converter, these are just that, gains. Id first have them turned all the way down upon first install/use and slowly turn them up while you have your radio at your normal max listening level. once you hear any sort of distortion turn the knobs back a hair. One knob is for the left channel, and the other for the right channel.

Also a side not:

If you are running a aftermarket headunit, Id really suggest getting a better quality line output converter.

The ones sold at walmart are fine for stock radios because they dont have very strong built in amplifiers, but an aftermarket cd player puts out 20watts rms up to 60 watts peak depending on the unit.

Most these line output converters have a rms and peak wattage rating. Ive seen cheap ones fail before from having to much power being pushed through the unit.

You can find better quality units for the same price if not cheaper at a local audio shop or online if you can wait for shipping.

I know Pac and Peripheral are 2 better brand units, they are the mostly used intergration kits by audio shops, I do find Peripheral to be a bit better quality then Pac, but both will walk all over a Schoshe product any day!

Here is a 10-30 watt Pac converter $13

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_5264_PAC+SNI-15.html

Here is a 2-40 watt Pac converter $13

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_5265_PAC+SNI-35.html

Here is a 2-80 watt pac converter, it has 2 more additional wires (12v constant, remote, ground. It wires up like an amp) $20

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_5285_PAC+TRUNK-LOC.html#

Hopefully that will send you in the right direction a little bit more then sending you off to google.

Cheers!

[97maxima]

def get the auto-sense for your remote lead or you can use a jumper wire from you 12v+on your amp to your remote terminal,save a couple bucks that way,but thats just a idea

[Chode69]

you guys need to calm down (yes i know im a few days late haha)

but its a legit question. LOCs. yes there could have been a lil research done by him but still no need to jump on him like that.

[majorpayne]

At the shop we always put the loc behind the radio, takes a little longer but then you dont have to re run the rca's if you decide to switch to a aftermarket headunit...

And my honest opinion is not to use scotch locks...they suck..will come loose after time or break the wire...T-taps are much easier and more reliable, if you zip-tie the two wires together then they will not come loose...

[raytard]

Ive used a bunch of DEI part # 55000 and 55020, one is the line out put converter (high to low) and the other is a voltage sensing 12v remote turn on(we call it the icecube, it senses when the speaker is playing and turns your amp on, and turns it off when the speaker is off)

as far as wiring, if it's for subs, usually just twist the grey/white with stripe together, the grey/white without stripe together, tap it into the speaker line, and the ground isnt really necessary, but just connect it to metal somewhere. you dont need stereo, and if you have a shared chamber box with a non-mono amp, this keeps funky stuff from happening.