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Tradeoffs With Enclosures ?


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Hey Boon, and aznboi, yes, I understand about Hoffman's Law.... I mean, I think I understood / knew most of this before, anyway. But just because you mentioned it, I found this; http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/home/in...ffmans-iron-law

.....and read it again.

However, like I said, space is not an issue for me. I can make my enclosure as big as it needs to be, and this would help me get deep, and loud.......

But I'm also asking about "tightness", and I don't see any correlation with this, and Hoffman's law.... In fact, if I had to take a wild guess, I'd say that while a bigger box would be louder (more efficient) and deeper, that it might also be sloppier (not as tight).

Hmmmm,

Fish

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Hey Emporor

Really ? I knew that sealed enclosures make 'tight' bass..... but I had also heard that they didn't get down as low., as a large ported box, with low tuning......

Also (and I'm not doubting what your saying.... but rather, I just don't know what to believe) I recently read this little thing, where these audio pros "are even saying" that ported and tuned boxes can be as tight as sealed ??? Doesn't sound logical to me, but.....

Do you agree with any of this stuff Emporor ?

Hmmmm,

Fish

sorta not really...

However, a well designed vented box may have considerably lower distortion and higher dynamics than a sealed box because of the added SPL gained from the port without increasing the active driver displacement requirements true if you keep the volume low but once you turn it up this goes out the window. You dont have a sealed box and say oh i want a lil more volume throw a ported in there and it be the same. They are 2 different animals

J. Jsig_253411.jpgMy CardomainFINISHED COBALT SS/SC DUAL ALTERNATOR PICS icon_nuts.gif

theres no such thing as too expensive when it comes to upgrades like that, because imo if you are gonna spend to upgrade then do it correctly rather then be a cheap ass ricer
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If you are running 12"s...even ported, you will have tight bass. I noticed a difference in dropping from 15"s sealed to 12"s ported, and the 8" midbasses will help you even more.

If you go ported, try a compromise of ~35hz tune, that will give you decent depth and will still work with rock music too. I wanted a 35 hz tune, but 'settled' for 38 hz due to airspace limitations. Mine really shines on '80s and rock music, and lacks the ultra lows, seems to be loudest right at 40hz.

its mainly all in the box.... but the speaker properties also determine how it sounds. no such thing as saying no matter what you do a 12 will be "tighter" then a 15. Ive had a direct comparison. my 2 RE XXX 15's sealed vs 12 W7 ported in a double baffle box built exact to JL recommendations tuned to 28. My 15s are hella punchier then the W7 was

J. Jsig_253411.jpgMy CardomainFINISHED COBALT SS/SC DUAL ALTERNATOR PICS icon_nuts.gif

theres no such thing as too expensive when it comes to upgrades like that, because imo if you are gonna spend to upgrade then do it correctly rather then be a cheap ass ricer
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Hey Fish...This is my view. I went from a lot of 10" drivers slot-ported to a single 12" sealed(with almost 800 watts less power), to a single 12" in a t-line... the t-line plays almost as loud as the 8 10"s but tighter than the sealed, and it gets super low!!! A t-line is the way to go. I did t-line for a single mtx 4500 8" with 100 watts, tuned it to 39Hz, its doing a 134.9 dB and it can get super low for a bottom end 8". Please try it you will not be disappointed. Use the driver specs and do not over power the driver, t-lines ar very very very efficcient.

Edited by jhmeg2

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////Alpine, Eclipse, Load Boss, Pheonix Gold, MB Quart,Digital Desings, Memphis, Stinger, Periphial, MTX, Visualogic

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bandpass would be the farthest thing from what he would want to do

J. Jsig_253411.jpgMy CardomainFINISHED COBALT SS/SC DUAL ALTERNATOR PICS icon_nuts.gif

theres no such thing as too expensive when it comes to upgrades like that, because imo if you are gonna spend to upgrade then do it correctly rather then be a cheap ass ricer
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bandpass would be the farthest thing from what he would want to do

right... a bandpass will get loud, it that freq range, but it will be somwhat muddy, and unless tuned low, it wont get there. band pass is out

OiRYFHf.png

////Alpine, Eclipse, Load Boss, Pheonix Gold, MB Quart,Digital Desings, Memphis, Stinger, Periphial, MTX, Visualogic

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If you want tight, snappy bass then what you care about is the Q of the whole system (qts)

I think 0.9 is supposed to be the ideal for ultimate cone control without sacrificing efficiency.

Efficiency indeed is only a measure of power/watt, it has nothing really to do with the response of the driver, ie with fast transients etc.

goodgrammarbc7.gif

10.x volts fo' life!

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Wow !

I really appreciate all of the great advice guys.

Hey Jhmeg2, I would totally consider a t-line setup. Where can I find more info, on how to design a t-line for my two 12"s ?

In fact, I reasearched them a bit, a few years ago, for home audio.... but never built one, as I could not have really enjoyed it, while renting a room. Anyway, one t-line I saw, used like 4 18"s, and a 24" X 14 foot sono tube :-) They said it filled a large warehouse with earthquaking bass.... and not that much power required either. Great for raves :-)

Hey Boon, I'm going to do some more in-depth study of Qts, and also, just for kicks, I'm going to see what the Qts of my pair of 12"s in the factory recommended box would be. I'd be thrilled if it turned out to be .9 :-)

Much thanks again guys,

Fish

PS, How freaking cool would Internet forums be, if all posts were just straight up, interesting, positive discussions like this one, rather than a bunch of worthless crap slinging ?

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