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Considering A Build, And Want Your Help!


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ROE Ref's-

Pornstar, Peas247, Speedcult, 98Tahoe,

2k1 sdime, 20blackls00, acidboy, t00sh0rt

KICKERASSMAN, TheDukey42, RapidFire89,

bass-aholic, xhilr8n , GavRiley2007, Jalat,

checkmate kstms, kingscratchie, F3RR3T,

Audiobahnfreak, + more...

SMD Ref's-

Chode69, kingsuv, pstone11, *1LOWSUV*, kbreudi, RatBass1998,

Applejack, jonathancullen89, Audioman21, Derrick824,

96saturnsl, Caps, spl explorer, littleitaly1990, tudski, sebXC,

mbdblue, j_black10, tre4chevyryda, zfrerichs...

CAC Ref's-

forceww, alex95sl2, canyouhearmatt, flores210, Anime Freak,

iamtheone, dcmcki, rcpease, jigga jatt, mytyeerinpie...

THAT IS TRUE SUB PORN...got some sexy movement and a squirter spewsmiley.gif
Subs are like titties, They need to come in pairs because ones and threes are just wrong, and larger amounts will always draw a crowd, we all have our favorite sizes, but the bigger ones are more fun to watch move. :D
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now that I look at the spec sheet, it says it requires a "MINIMUM OF TRUE 4AWG WIRE" meaning 1/0 should work nicely :D

and its got a draw of 120A

1997 Pontiac Grand Am SE

Broke stock Head Unit

Stock speakers suck

-if I get a job, it gets 2 SA 8s in a 2.5cube box (roughly 2 cube with the port and woofers in)-

-oh, and a new HU and some speakers that dont suck. and possibly a new muffler and tint job (previous owners tint is smudging in the back, if you know how to get tint off a window without damaging the heating stuff, let me know!!!)-

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Next question directed toward the forum!

BATTERY!!!

Since I know caps will be useless on this system, I need to figure out how im setting this, im also upgrading the Big-3 to 1/0 and the alt to something bigger, so anyway, lets see what we've got to work with,

I want to replace the starter, and I want to add one at the rear, tell me what you think would be best for budget!

1997 Pontiac Grand Am SE

Broke stock Head Unit

Stock speakers suck

-if I get a job, it gets 2 SA 8s in a 2.5cube box (roughly 2 cube with the port and woofers in)-

-oh, and a new HU and some speakers that dont suck. and possibly a new muffler and tint job (previous owners tint is smudging in the back, if you know how to get tint off a window without damaging the heating stuff, let me know!!!)-

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1997 Pontiac Grand Am SE

Broke stock Head Unit

Stock speakers suck

-if I get a job, it gets 2 SA 8s in a 2.5cube box (roughly 2 cube with the port and woofers in)-

-oh, and a new HU and some speakers that dont suck. and possibly a new muffler and tint job (previous owners tint is smudging in the back, if you know how to get tint off a window without damaging the heating stuff, let me know!!!)-

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also, if your wondering, each sheet of v/005 is an ultradense material, it weighs a little over 50LB a sheet. Its got some nice Versicle elastic material epox on it though, it wont come off without 300F of direct heat contact

1997 Pontiac Grand Am SE

Broke stock Head Unit

Stock speakers suck

-if I get a job, it gets 2 SA 8s in a 2.5cube box (roughly 2 cube with the port and woofers in)-

-oh, and a new HU and some speakers that dont suck. and possibly a new muffler and tint job (previous owners tint is smudging in the back, if you know how to get tint off a window without damaging the heating stuff, let me know!!!)-

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now that I look at the spec sheet, it says it requires a "MINIMUM OF TRUE 4AWG WIRE" meaning 1/0 should work nicely :D

and its got a draw of 120A

120A x 14.4v x 80% efficiency (probably less) = 1382w

I suspect an MT will laugh at that much power. Then again you won't be in much risk of blowing it unless you clip it to all hell.

EDIT: Bahaha I love how it imitates the big Rockford amps :P

goodgrammarbc7.gif

10.x volts fo' life!

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im gettin' it for only 200$ :P

I honestly dont care about how much it can push, I just need over 1000W RMS for my wall, i'll get a big RF amp when I have the money to do it

1997 Pontiac Grand Am SE

Broke stock Head Unit

Stock speakers suck

-if I get a job, it gets 2 SA 8s in a 2.5cube box (roughly 2 cube with the port and woofers in)-

-oh, and a new HU and some speakers that dont suck. and possibly a new muffler and tint job (previous owners tint is smudging in the back, if you know how to get tint off a window without damaging the heating stuff, let me know!!!)-

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120A x 14.4v x 80% efficiency (probably less) = 1382w

I suspect an MT will laugh at that much power. Then again you won't be in much risk of blowing it unless you clip it to all hell.

EDIT: Bahaha I love how it imitates the big Rockford amps :P

That what I thought but the efficiency is prolly closer to 65-70.

Vehicle: 1997 S10 Blazer 4dr 4X4

Exterior: Rear End Bagged, Black Grill, Lifted 2"

Amplifiers: Rockford Fosgate T8004 & T10001bd

Batteries: 2 Stinger SPV35, Kinetik HC2400

Electrical: Big 3, DC Power 290amp Alternator w/ MLA at 15.5v

Enclosure: 4.2 ft³ @ 33Hz 84sq.in. of port (20sq.in. per cube)

Headunit: Eclipse CD3200 w/ 80G iPod

Mids/Highs: Rockford T152s (a-pillars), Rockford T162s (doors)

Subwoofers: 1 15" Fi BL Fully Loaded

Wire: All 1/0g Kicker Hyperflex

My YouTube Videos

My Fiberglass A-Pillar Build

My "Seamless" Looking Box Build

My DD1508 T-Line Bandpass Build "Seamless" w/ Acrylic Windows (for '05 TrailBlazer)

My Stealth 8" Fiberglass Build (for '05 TrailBlazer)

My Build For A Friend's '08 Cobalt 15" BL Sealed Off From The Trunk

My feedback/references...

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if you wanna push crap at the amp, then buy me one, its help I need, not your criticism.

and its rated 1200W rms @ 4ohm, I seriously dont care how much it pushes cause my broken t4 doesnt do nothin' and I dont think I could put new guts in it for 200$ or less.. and I know a Lightning Audio b3.200.2 wouldnt tap it... this is why I dont care how high power it is, I just need a powerful amp of 1000W+ RMS,

edit part -- also, its a Class D monoblock :P

1997 Pontiac Grand Am SE

Broke stock Head Unit

Stock speakers suck

-if I get a job, it gets 2 SA 8s in a 2.5cube box (roughly 2 cube with the port and woofers in)-

-oh, and a new HU and some speakers that dont suck. and possibly a new muffler and tint job (previous owners tint is smudging in the back, if you know how to get tint off a window without damaging the heating stuff, let me know!!!)-

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I'm not really laughing at the amp, just pointing out that you're running a MONSTER of a sub, which was originally designed as a competition SPL sub. The suspension (mostly the spiders) is extremely stiff and despite the enormous motor, it takes a solid whack of power to get up and going. I'm talking 2500wrms upwards. The ratings don't mean fish, that amp will probably push no more than 1200wrms @ 1 ohm. So after impedance rise you have like 700w and the MT is just going to sit there. It'll be loud(ish) but it could be so much more.

Oh well, whatever gets it going for now I guess. Just be damn sure that you don't think hmm that's quiet and mash the gain up, cos as soon as you clip that bad boy your coils will be up in smoke. There's no pole vent on those subs so if you're feeding it low power clipping you're not even moving the sub a little bit to keep it cool, you're just roasting it. Word of warning :)

goodgrammarbc7.gif

10.x volts fo' life!

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