Neo_frog Posted November 5, 2008 Report Posted November 5, 2008 Now maybe this is a dumb question, but because of the 'hot amp' problem I had, I'm wondering if it's legit... Let's say we have two 1-ohm speaker loads and a 1-ohm stable amp... Now the only possible wiring schemes would generally yield .5 and 2-ohm configurations.. If you were to just twist the positive leads together and the same with the negs, wouldn't the setup continue to be 1-ohm? That's what my meter is telling me, but I don't think that can be right. And plus when we did that with a 1-ohm stable amp, it got really hot after a short time. I just wanna ask you guys to make sure I'm not crazy. Need an install? Hit me up.[email protected]Got car audio questions? Check here first!Everything you need to know. =]http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/83029-everything-you-need-to-know/
ptcary Posted November 5, 2008 Report Posted November 5, 2008 Two 1 ohm loads, paralled pos to pos and neg to neg? Wouldn't that be a .5 ohm load on a amp that is only 1 ohm stable?? Did I read your question wrong? PTCary 2003 SMD PT Cruiser 2011 Honda CBR 250R 2010 Mazda 3i Sport MY BUILD LOG
jonathancullen89 Posted November 5, 2008 Report Posted November 5, 2008 all positives together and negatives together will give you a .5 ohm load. wire it to 2 ohms or ur going to fry sum shit. 1992 cavalier build 1992 blazer s10 kenwood cd hifonics hfi2500d 6 soon to be 12 12" hifonics hfi12d4's shit ton-o-wire Blurred Vision Audio Team SMD feedback/refs. clicky!-
ptcary Posted November 5, 2008 Report Posted November 5, 2008 I am not sure, but do you basically have 2 sets of 16 subs 1 ohm per set? Paralleled together, then that is indeed a .5 ohm load and if that test amp you used can only do 1 ohm, then it would get really hot at .5 ohm. If so...wire the two sets of 16 subs in series for a 2 ohm load and test them again. PTCary 2003 SMD PT Cruiser 2011 Honda CBR 250R 2010 Mazda 3i Sport MY BUILD LOG
Neo_frog Posted November 6, 2008 Author Report Posted November 6, 2008 See that's just the thing. First off, I'm sure my wiring is right. I have two leads coming from the box each being a 1-ohm load (per 16 subs). Yet when I tie them together on an amp or not + to + and - to - directly into the amp, they still read 1-ohm... Now the only thing I could think of would be enough resistance across all 32 subs to add around .5 ohms to my reading... I was confused for a while, but I think that's the case. I'll do some more tests. Amps should be in tomorrow for those watching. Need an install? Hit me up.[email protected]Got car audio questions? Check here first!Everything you need to know. =]http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/83029-everything-you-need-to-know/
E a r t h Posted November 6, 2008 Report Posted November 6, 2008 Are the 10s D4 subs? If so I get .5 ohm load for 16 subs with a series/parallel config. Am I right, you have a set of 16 subs on a 4K, and the other 16 subs on the other 4K? .5 ohm nominal on each amp with 16 subs .25 ohm nominal on one amp with 32 subs Both cases with D4 subs in a series/parallel config With all the wire and connections made between them, I can see an increase in resistance with that your meter ''sees'' although DMMs average out what they read
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