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Blew My Highs & Mids I Guess...


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Well first off let me say thanks for taking the time to read my thread I really need some advice... Anyways I'll tell you my current audio setup. I have an Eclipse CD5000 head unit, Kicker 07 SS56.2 SS-Series 5 ¼" components in the front, Kicker DS693 6x9 in the rear deck all hooked up to the older version of the Kicker KX350.4 4-Channel Amp. As for the bass I have two 2008 Kicker Solo Barics L7 12" in a 212SQSPB ProBox which has 2.75 cu. ft. per side and its all hooked up to a Rockford Fosgate T10001bd Mono Amp on a 1ohm load.

Anyways I had my car in the body shop.. I went there a couple times and they was block sanding the car with the freakin' windows down and their was paint/bondo dust all over the inside of my car. The inside of my car looked like a powdered donut, no lie.. SO ... I finally get my car back and I'm driving around and notice a scratching sound coming from the front right tweeter. I go to turn up the volume and the speakers start freakin'' out. They play 1 tone very loudly and tuning the volume down doesn't help nor did cutting the power to the head unit. All of a sudden I smell a rubber smell so I hop out the car and pop the trunk and pull out the remote wire to the mids/highs amp. I then took the door panels off the fronts and I see that one of the crossovers had been broken, one of the coils is broken off the board and laying in the pocket of the door. Next I check the rears where I smelled rubber, one of the 6x9s surround seal vibrated loose .. wtf... anyways...

Im pretty sure it wasn't a wiring issue because it check all the wiring and it looks good. I have 1 run of 2 guage from the battery leading back to the truck where plugs into a dist block and slits from 2 gauge to the subs amp and 4 gauge to the mids/highs amp. The ground wire is set up basicly the same way but the ground anchor is mounted in the trunk. It all worked fine before I had it at the body shop so I'm kinda at a loss. Did they crap out cuz of the broken crossover? Am I powering them too much or not enough?? IDK but they need replacing and this will make my 3 set of SS56.2 SS-Series if I decide to get another set.. and them things ain't cheap... Although price really isn't a factor. Maybe I should upgrade to something new? IDK , I know about subs but when it comes to mids and highs idk... Plus it doesn't help that I'm a bit noob at audio.. Anyways.. What do you guys think? Any suggestions? Should I upgrade, if so to what?

Thanks in advance,

Kurk

* Eclipse CD3200 with PAC SWI-CAN2 and SW-ECL2 Steering Wheel Controls Interface
* Pioneer D-Series Mids and Highs ( Fronts: TS-D1702C; Rears; TS-D1702R and Dash; TS-D1002R )
* Rockford Fosgate PBR300X4 ( Mids and Highs Amp )
* DC 3.5k with Dual Inputs; Custom Plexiglass Backing ( Sub Amp )
* Rockford Fosgate Balanced Line Driver

* One FULLY LOADED ~ 10" DC m2 XL
* Custom Built Carpeted Ported Box Tuned to 32hz. Single Chamber With Volume of 1.44618³ ft ; 1.13216³ ft After Displacement
* Custom Built Carpeted Trunk Wall with Added Fans for Amplifier Cooling
* MechMan 240a High Output Alternator

* KnuKonceptz Krystal Kable RCA Cables
* Upgraded Electrical With 1/0 KnuKonceptz Kolossus Fleks Kable and 1/0 Sky High Car Audio Cable
* Five Exide Orbital ORB34M Marine 12 Volt Batteries
* PowerMaster XS D3100 12 Volt Battery

My 2008 Chrysler 300 Limited - SuperCharged 3.5L V6 - UBL

My Old 2005 Ford Taurus - CarDomain - Vehicle Was Sold

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the 6x9s are like a stock replacement so they may have been blown form power being put to them.

id recommend testing each speaker outside of the care, either with a tone generator or an outside source, use a dmm to be sure coil is still good. also check amps to be sure somethign hasnt changed setting wise or that the amp isnt messing up

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Yeah 6x9's are blown as well as one of the components... I think im just upgrade and switch brands... What do you thing about ... 2 sets of RF P162S 6.5" Components for fronts/rears powered by a RF T400-4? I'm looking at some right now and they come with a 3 year warrenty.. Also they're about 1/2 the price of the kickers and come with 4 tweeters per set. Interesting...... thoughts?

* Eclipse CD3200 with PAC SWI-CAN2 and SW-ECL2 Steering Wheel Controls Interface
* Pioneer D-Series Mids and Highs ( Fronts: TS-D1702C; Rears; TS-D1702R and Dash; TS-D1002R )
* Rockford Fosgate PBR300X4 ( Mids and Highs Amp )
* DC 3.5k with Dual Inputs; Custom Plexiglass Backing ( Sub Amp )
* Rockford Fosgate Balanced Line Driver

* One FULLY LOADED ~ 10" DC m2 XL
* Custom Built Carpeted Ported Box Tuned to 32hz. Single Chamber With Volume of 1.44618³ ft ; 1.13216³ ft After Displacement
* Custom Built Carpeted Trunk Wall with Added Fans for Amplifier Cooling
* MechMan 240a High Output Alternator

* KnuKonceptz Krystal Kable RCA Cables
* Upgraded Electrical With 1/0 KnuKonceptz Kolossus Fleks Kable and 1/0 Sky High Car Audio Cable
* Five Exide Orbital ORB34M Marine 12 Volt Batteries
* PowerMaster XS D3100 12 Volt Battery

My 2008 Chrysler 300 Limited - SuperCharged 3.5L V6 - UBL

My Old 2005 Ford Taurus - CarDomain - Vehicle Was Sold

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i got a set of ks 6&1/2 componits in the front and a set of ks 6&1/2 coax in the back ran off a memphis pr 150.2 and its loud as hell and no probs, but do u play bass threw ur mids? i dont i use midbass (mtx6000 8's) but anyways its prolly how u got the amp tuned cause those comps should take more power than that amp puts out rms@4ohm prolly is around 60@4ohm, ied get another amp but make it 2 channel so when u wire ur comps and rear speakers it will drop to a 2ohm load and run more power, cause ur only runnin that amp at 4ohm each channel and hardly gettin any power from it will make a diff thats why i went with a 2ch for my mids n highs, i think my amp is turned up 1/4 the way and its loud as hell and still clean soundin, but its more efficent to run a 2ch amp @ 2ohm than a 4ch at 4ohm each channel so ur basicly not gettin teh full wattage that amp will do, this is the amp i got for mine http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseac...Product_ID=2431 and its got more than plenty watts than i need and its still a clean signal to, i unno but that might be it and a second battery will help to but thats my .02

here's a link to my system 99 toyota tacoma , 2 mtx 8000 1504's in a sealed downfire , 1000w memphis amp

here's a link to my other system my 90 geo prizm test car

heres a thread i got of new songs u can dl that are legal = Some Good Bangage/you Can Dl These Free And Legit

redblob.gifbouncing%20blob.gif2yooj7m.pngmodel14.gif

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i got a set of ks 6&1/2 componits in the front and a set of ks 6&1/2 coax in the back ran off a memphis pr 150.2 and its loud as hell and no probs, but do u play bass threw ur mids? i dont i use midbass (mtx6000 8's) but anyways its prolly how u got the amp tuned cause those comps should take more power than that amp puts out rms@4ohm prolly is around 60@4ohm, ied get another amp but make it 2 channel so when u wire ur comps and rear speakers it will drop to a 2ohm load and run more power, cause ur only runnin that amp at 4ohm each channel and hardly gettin any power from it will make a diff thats why i went with a 2ch for my mids n highs, i think my amp is turned up 1/4 the way and its loud as hell and still clean soundin, but its more efficent to run a 2ch amp @ 2ohm than a 4ch at 4ohm each channel so ur basicly not gettin teh full wattage that amp will do, this is the amp i got for mine http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseac...Product_ID=2431 and its got more than plenty watts than i need and its still a clean signal to, i unno but that might be it and a second battery will help to but thats my .02

Yeah that's what I never got either... I've blows 2 sets now and the amp is no where near powerful enough to power the speakers in the first place. I dont have the gains on the amp turned up more than 1/4 either... there basically set around 1/8 to 1/4 to tell you the truth. Hmmm idk... bass wise... the CSII on the head unit is set on low... but I usally change it to low or off depending on what type of songs I'm listening to. Volume wise I usally play the system around 55 of 80... and the EQ is currently setup for rap. IDK I think it has to be my amp... that think is ancient... its the 03 or 04 version not sure.. Anyways I decided to try out the 2 sets RF P162S 6.5" Components for fronts/rears powered by a RF T400-4 and see how they fair. I got a deal on everything for $345 all brand new and comes with 3 year warranty.

* Eclipse CD3200 with PAC SWI-CAN2 and SW-ECL2 Steering Wheel Controls Interface
* Pioneer D-Series Mids and Highs ( Fronts: TS-D1702C; Rears; TS-D1702R and Dash; TS-D1002R )
* Rockford Fosgate PBR300X4 ( Mids and Highs Amp )
* DC 3.5k with Dual Inputs; Custom Plexiglass Backing ( Sub Amp )
* Rockford Fosgate Balanced Line Driver

* One FULLY LOADED ~ 10" DC m2 XL
* Custom Built Carpeted Ported Box Tuned to 32hz. Single Chamber With Volume of 1.44618³ ft ; 1.13216³ ft After Displacement
* Custom Built Carpeted Trunk Wall with Added Fans for Amplifier Cooling
* MechMan 240a High Output Alternator

* KnuKonceptz Krystal Kable RCA Cables
* Upgraded Electrical With 1/0 KnuKonceptz Kolossus Fleks Kable and 1/0 Sky High Car Audio Cable
* Five Exide Orbital ORB34M Marine 12 Volt Batteries
* PowerMaster XS D3100 12 Volt Battery

My 2008 Chrysler 300 Limited - SuperCharged 3.5L V6 - UBL

My Old 2005 Ford Taurus - CarDomain - Vehicle Was Sold

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what did the body shop do to the car did they have to remove the door panels ?around here if your car goes into a body shop with a system it doesnt come out with one. :rofl::rofl:

Ermm about $2600 worth in body work. The Body shop is like 10 seconds from my house, I can walk out my front door and see the shop from my door step lol... Wanna see some pics?

* Eclipse CD3200 with PAC SWI-CAN2 and SW-ECL2 Steering Wheel Controls Interface
* Pioneer D-Series Mids and Highs ( Fronts: TS-D1702C; Rears; TS-D1702R and Dash; TS-D1002R )
* Rockford Fosgate PBR300X4 ( Mids and Highs Amp )
* DC 3.5k with Dual Inputs; Custom Plexiglass Backing ( Sub Amp )
* Rockford Fosgate Balanced Line Driver

* One FULLY LOADED ~ 10" DC m2 XL
* Custom Built Carpeted Ported Box Tuned to 32hz. Single Chamber With Volume of 1.44618³ ft ; 1.13216³ ft After Displacement
* Custom Built Carpeted Trunk Wall with Added Fans for Amplifier Cooling
* MechMan 240a High Output Alternator

* KnuKonceptz Krystal Kable RCA Cables
* Upgraded Electrical With 1/0 KnuKonceptz Kolossus Fleks Kable and 1/0 Sky High Car Audio Cable
* Five Exide Orbital ORB34M Marine 12 Volt Batteries
* PowerMaster XS D3100 12 Volt Battery

My 2008 Chrysler 300 Limited - SuperCharged 3.5L V6 - UBL

My Old 2005 Ford Taurus - CarDomain - Vehicle Was Sold

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maybe dust got in them... scratchy coil

Yeah that might be it as well... like I said the inside of car looked like a powdered donut... lol anyways I made a thread in the rides section if u care...

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...showtopic=32301

* Eclipse CD3200 with PAC SWI-CAN2 and SW-ECL2 Steering Wheel Controls Interface
* Pioneer D-Series Mids and Highs ( Fronts: TS-D1702C; Rears; TS-D1702R and Dash; TS-D1002R )
* Rockford Fosgate PBR300X4 ( Mids and Highs Amp )
* DC 3.5k with Dual Inputs; Custom Plexiglass Backing ( Sub Amp )
* Rockford Fosgate Balanced Line Driver

* One FULLY LOADED ~ 10" DC m2 XL
* Custom Built Carpeted Ported Box Tuned to 32hz. Single Chamber With Volume of 1.44618³ ft ; 1.13216³ ft After Displacement
* Custom Built Carpeted Trunk Wall with Added Fans for Amplifier Cooling
* MechMan 240a High Output Alternator

* KnuKonceptz Krystal Kable RCA Cables
* Upgraded Electrical With 1/0 KnuKonceptz Kolossus Fleks Kable and 1/0 Sky High Car Audio Cable
* Five Exide Orbital ORB34M Marine 12 Volt Batteries
* PowerMaster XS D3100 12 Volt Battery

My 2008 Chrysler 300 Limited - SuperCharged 3.5L V6 - UBL

My Old 2005 Ford Taurus - CarDomain - Vehicle Was Sold

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