i keep hearing this alot but i dunno wut i should do with my setup

[tacomabanga1986]

ima be runnin a memphis pr1000d and a 600watt sony 4ch with a stinger 1f cap, will my stock alt run them both with 0guage off the batt or do i gotta do a upgrade to the alt, i dont kno the amp of my stock alt thats why im askin cause ive heard alot of ppl sayin that caps suck n its better to get an extra battery but i dont kno if my stock could charge it to, im runnin a mtx500d now @4ohm pushin my 2 5500 1544's n at some music peaks the headlights dim, i dotn kno if its cause i got aftermarket headlights or what, would it be better to run without a cap than with it?

[silversolox12]

personally if its just ur headlights and stuff i would get a cap, it should stop the dimming but wont do a whole lot for your system.

[AI James]

personally if its just ur headlights and stuff i would get a cap, it should stop the dimming but wont do a whole lot for your system.

most likely it wont do a damn thing for your dimming.  get an extra battery for the time being your stock alternator will be fine charging both if your only bumping with the car on

[dmanson]

have you done the big 3? if not then i'm quite sure it'll help.

[LSN2meBoom916]

People usually say a cap is "no good" or "not worth it" because it is more "storage" (of electrical charge/power) THAT REQUIRES CHARGING by your alt. That said, in SOME cases it can help.

With LOWER power setups (1000w rms or less), the draw from the cap on big bass note or bass heavy track will not be sufficient to "kill" the cap completely so the alt, even a stock alt, will be able to recharge it QUICKLY/sufficiently and the cap will serve it's intended purpose of a "buffer" for ur amp between the battery and help with keepin lights from dimming. When the bass slams, it eats some (usually lots) of juice, and the cap can DISCHARGE and RECHARGE faster than a normal battery so in that regard it helps to keep the overall system voltage more constant/consisitent.

IMO, caps w/ a digital voltage readout are MORE benificial than any other might be (barring HUGE caps like a 15F-40F or battcap) because more often than not, the REAL downfall of electrical setups is Lack of AWARENESS of system voltage i.e. INSUFFICIENT SUPPORT (not enough cca's and/or ability to recharge) which causes major voltage drops. Voltage drops make amps work harder, overheat, put BAD/Clipped signal into subs and basically wreak havoc on ur system. If you have a digital readout and can WATCH your voltage DIVEBOMB under 9volts, if you have ANY common sense you will lower the volume or gain and let it recover b4 you roast something. Without KNOWING your real time voltage, it's a lot easier to just pound your setup into an early grave.

That has just been my exp. I'm sure some folks will try to shoot holes in that theory and they are welcome to it I will not pretend to know everything about electrical/charging setups nor overlook the fact that EVERY SETUP is unique and will have different results w/ the same/similar products, This is just what I have encountered as an CA "installer". Adding a digital Real time Volt meter ha shad the most impact on the life span/longevity of electrical systems in setups I have built.

In my own vehicle I have a PG Tantrum 1200.1 (1521rms @ 2ohm birthsheet) and a 600.4 for the mids. With the stock alt, Stinger SP1000, and a 1F cap I have minimal/barely noticable dimming in cold weather and none in the summer time.

Next upgrade will be a 200A Iraggi unit and at least 1 deepcycle when I swtich to 4 amps, but for now it's pretty solid.

Hope that helps clear up some of the "cap or no cap" controversey.

~2cents.

[Guest MegaloManiac]

caps may  stop the dimming. but the fact of the matter is u dont have the power for the demand simple. even with the cap(s) u still have a electrical problem although u wont see it since ur lights arent dimmin.                       

[LSN2meBoom916]

Correction-If your lights are dimming, you have a problem. if they aren't, you should be ok. If the electrical can keep ur lights from dimming in all weather, that would indicate YOU HAVE SUFFICIENT reserve and charging in your electrical system. So no worries.

If you have enough electrical reinforcement, your lights wont dim.period.

If you have a low power setup, a 1F cap will prolly be ok and help. From my exp around 1000 true rms watts if the max. Anything over that And you guys (megalo&james) are right caps are not gonna help and will prolly HINDER, as the stock alt will die trying to keep everything charged and supply power tot he system.

If you have a 20,000watt setup, 80F aint gonna save you from the electron monsters.

THAT's why most folks hate on caps I think. They ASSUME it's a high power setup automatically. The distinction should be made: Low power, caps ok, high power setups, you're better off with something that holds more power like BATTERIES AND you should have the means to keep them sufficiently CHARGED like one or more High output alts.

And a Digital Voltage display is always good.

[Coolwazabi]

what about battcaps ? :^

[Guest MegaloManiac]

I dont need correcting. I was refferring if u dont see dimming while having a cap  that u still have a problem.        

[LSN2meBoom916]

I dont need correcting. I was refferring if u dont see dimming while having a cap  that u still have a problem.        

OK. then IAM confused.

What would be the problem if your lights were not dimming?

If they are not dimming, then the electrical is keeping up w/ the demand of the system and your lights. Right?

So how is that a problem?

Or are you trying to say that in any case, regardless of lights/system/etc working PERFECTLY, the mere presence of a cap = "problems"???

If so I don't follow.