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Dual 12" Re Subs


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Sould I face my subs and port to the rear or since my rear seats fold down face the subs and port to the front and seal them off from the trunk. I am looking to to build a box that is between 3.25^3 to 4.0^3 tuned to 35-38 htz. let me know what will be the best for spl. I am running two RE audio 12: se series and an XT200D.....

PPI dbl din
DC Level 3
1.77cubes net tuned to 33htz.
DC audio 2.0k
CT Pro Audio 8" in front, 6.5 in rear






dc_audio.jpg

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Sould I face my subs and port to the rear or since my rear seats fold down face the subs and port to the front and seal them off from the trunk. I am looking to to build a box that is between 3.25^3 to 4.0^3 tuned to 35-38 htz. let me know what will be the best for spl. I am running two RE audio 12: se series and an XT200D.....

Don't make any kind of permanent setup just yet, but hook it all up and try every application to find the optimal SPL. Every car is different, and it's all about trial and error. Once you find the best sound, make it look pretty.

In most applications though, facing forward would be better.

Need an install? Hit me up.
[email protected]


Got car audio questions? Check here first!
Everything you need to know. =]

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/83029-everything-you-need-to-know/

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Try facing forward sealed from the trunk.

But I agree with NEO 100%.. I'am on my 4th box with the you same subs as you, and still trying new things....

I do suggest a bigger amp I liked at least A XT4000d on the SE's..

Also 4.3 cubes before port area and 16 sqare inches of port area per cubic foot of box. I think that sounds good with the 12" se's.

I don't see alot of love on this site for the se's. I have given mine hell and am very impressed especially for the money..

Edited by CR Boom

2007 Great Wall So Cool

4-12' RE audio MX's

Stetsom 7k2D

6-Batts

3-Mechman 250 amp Rhino's

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Well with a wife and kids in the picture I really dont have the time or money to build 3 or 4 boxes. I already have a problem getting the 2^3 ft box in the trunk. The new box is going to be built in the car and i figured out how i am going to connect it all. i am going test fit all the peices inside the car, take it out build it with a few temp screw and then set it up to be put togther with minifix (kd) fittings. http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=2334&cs=1 and a bunch of glue. I will scerw it together in as many places as possible. I plan on glassing the inside before I put the back on though. and am trying to get it to where the vent is not bent so I can then glass the back to the box. I have a lot of plans and hope to do about 145+ I will be off starting today till jan 5 2009 so i have plenty of time........ i hope to get some progress pics up in the next two weeks..

also forgot to tell you what kind of car i have. its a 2000 chrysler sebring coupe....

Edited by SOUNDFX

PPI dbl din
DC Level 3
1.77cubes net tuned to 33htz.
DC audio 2.0k
CT Pro Audio 8" in front, 6.5 in rear






dc_audio.jpg

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Well I pulled the old amp and box out last night and plan on starting the build for the new stuff today. I was wondering what would happen if I put a spray in bedliner inside the box. Will it affect the sound or what?????

PPI dbl din
DC Level 3
1.77cubes net tuned to 33htz.
DC audio 2.0k
CT Pro Audio 8" in front, 6.5 in rear






dc_audio.jpg

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You might even wanna try the subs facing foward and the port on the side of the box towards the drivers side of the vehicle. That seems to work very well in alot of trunk cars and gets very loud that way. Other than that I would say for still getting loud and sounding great subs and port back work very well for that.

2013 VW Jetta GLI 2.0 Turbo

1 Sundown Audio SCV2000

1 Sundown Audio X15 V2

1 XS Power D3100

Audio Control LC6i

Stock Deck

146.4 sealed on the dash at 37hz

2001 Focus ZX3: RETIRED

Team Sundown Audio, Team XS Power, 2 time NSPL Car 3601-Up Champion, 2 time NSPL Car Hardcore Champion
Highest NSPL Scores to date:
154.3db on the dash sealed at 46hz, 156.2db in the kick at 46hz
155.2db unofficial on dash at 43hz

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You might even wanna try the subs facing foward and the port on the side of the box towards the drivers side of the vehicle. That seems to work very well in alot of trunk cars and gets very loud that way. Other than that I would say for still getting loud and sounding great subs and port back work very well for that.

A lot of people in here are facing the subs and ports to the front like in steves honda pluss I like the look and it make my trunk usable...

PPI dbl din
DC Level 3
1.77cubes net tuned to 33htz.
DC audio 2.0k
CT Pro Audio 8" in front, 6.5 in rear






dc_audio.jpg

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Well with a wife and kids in the picture I really dont have the time or money to build 3 or 4 boxes. I already have a problem getting the 2^3 ft box in the trunk. The new box is going to be built in the car and i figured out how i am going to connect it all. i am going test fit all the peices inside the car, take it out build it with a few temp screw and then set it up to be put togther with minifix (kd) fittings. http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=2334&cs=1 and a bunch of glue. I will scerw it together in as many places as possible. I plan on glassing the inside before I put the back on though. and am trying to get it to where the vent is not bent so I can then glass the back to the box. I have a lot of plans and hope to do about 145+ I will be off starting today till jan 5 2009 so i have plenty of time........ i hope to get some progress pics up in the next two weeks..

also forgot to tell you what kind of car i have. its a 2000 chrysler sebring coupe....

Bad idea. Test fit it, then take it all out and glue it piece by piece with good glue. Only put one or two screws in here and there to hold pieces together while glue dries. Tons of screws will weaken the joints and glue is way stronger anyways.

A lot of people in here are facing the subs and ports to the front like in steves honda pluss I like the look and it make my trunk usable...

While facing back almost always sounds good, facing forward will raise your SPL.

Remember, SPL is not the same as volume and your sound could turn out like complete shit if it's not done right. Not sure of your experience, but most people who do walls are considerably seasoned or experimenting. I'd just hate to see you go through all that work and be disappointed.

Need an install? Hit me up.
[email protected]


Got car audio questions? Check here first!
Everything you need to know. =]

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/83029-everything-you-need-to-know/

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Bad idea. Test fit it, then take it all out and glue it piece by piece with good glue. Only put one or two screws in here and there to hold pieces together while glue dries. Tons of screws will weaken the joints and glue is way stronger anyways.

While facing back almost always sounds good, facing forward will raise your SPL.

Remember, SPL is not the same as volume and your sound could turn out like complete shit if it's not done right. Not sure of your experience, but most people who do walls are considerably seasoned or experimenting. I'd just hate to see you go through all that work and be disappointed.

I found out las night that if i remove the rear seat completely that I can get the box out. so if it sounds bad it only takes about 1 or 2 hours to flip it around...

now for the build pics....

PPI dbl din
DC Level 3
1.77cubes net tuned to 33htz.
DC audio 2.0k
CT Pro Audio 8" in front, 6.5 in rear






dc_audio.jpg

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Here they are after about 2 week of talking. subs and amp will be in on monday damn holidays... but i have been off work since the 24 of december...

scrubbaloshocker.jpg

my boy scrubbalo!!!!

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lookm ma no amp on the floor!!!!!

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look a drunk setting on the camera!!!!!!

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tdh.jpg

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Edited by SOUNDFX

PPI dbl din
DC Level 3
1.77cubes net tuned to 33htz.
DC audio 2.0k
CT Pro Audio 8" in front, 6.5 in rear






dc_audio.jpg

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