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So What Kind Of Amp Should I Get?


BassAddict32

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okay, so does anyone agree with anyone else? i've had like 30 different amps that i could use here but does anyone agree with anyone else so i can figure this out? lol. because i have 2 ideas. 1. get 2 1000w monoblock amps and strap them to 1 ohm or 2. get 1 big amp around 3000 and strap them to 2 ohms.

1994 Ford F150 reg cab

2 HFX 12's

Audiopipe APSM-1300

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okay, so does anyone agree with anyone else? i've had like 30 different amps that i could use here but does anyone agree with anyone else so i can figure this out? lol. because i have 2 ideas. 1. get 2 1000w monoblock amps and strap them to 1 ohm or 2. get 1 big amp around 3000 and strap them to 2 ohms.

More than likely if you buy a 3000W monoblock, you'll only be getting 1500 out of it because your final load will be 2-ohms and your subs will only be getting ~375W a piece. It's not the best idea.

I vote the two 1000W amps. You'll be giving the subs sufficient power since each pair will be a 1-ohm load and you'll have less impedance rise which ideally will yield more power.

If you really have to have only one amp, like I said before, get a 4000W monoblock. The final load will drop the amp's power to 2000 @ 2 ohms which would be perfect for the subs.

Need an install? Hit me up.
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Got car audio questions? Check here first!
Everything you need to know. =]

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/83029-everything-you-need-to-know/

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you wont kill them,just dont turn the amp all the way up.i had it on 2 memphis mojos,they were 750rms and 1500 max,i had it putting about 2250 per sub,daily for over 2 years and the subs never failed or skiped a beat,i beat the shit out of them too.HAving alot of clean rms power is alot differerent than having alot of distorted crap coming out of an amp

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More than likely if you buy a 3000W monoblock, you'll only be getting 1500 out of it because your final load will be 2-ohms and your subs will only be getting ~375W a piece. It's not the best idea.

I vote the two 1000W amps. You'll be giving the subs sufficient power since each pair will be a 1-ohm load and you'll have less impedance rise which ideally will yield more power.

If you really have to have only one amp, like I said before, get a 4000W monoblock. The final load will drop the amp's power to 2000 @ 2 ohms which would be perfect for the subs.

or should i get the 4000 crossfire like the guy a few above me said? if it puts out 4000 at 2 ohms, then wouldn't i be getting 1000 to each? or should i still go with the 2 amps?

1994 Ford F150 reg cab

2 HFX 12's

Audiopipe APSM-1300

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More than likely if you buy a 3000W monoblock, you'll only be getting 1500 out of it because your final load will be 2-ohms and your subs will only be getting ~375W a piece. It's not the best idea.

I vote the two 1000W amps. You'll be giving the subs sufficient power since each pair will be a 1-ohm load and you'll have less impedance rise which ideally will yield more power.

If you really have to have only one amp, like I said before, get a 4000W monoblock. The final load will drop the amp's power to 2000 @ 2 ohms which would be perfect for the subs.

Not every amp is 1-ohm stable, you do know?

Whomever mentioned the Kicker ZX2500 was smart, that amp does rated power at 2-ohms, which is perfect for his application. :) You're looking for an amp that does between 2000-3000 RMS at 2-ohms.

You COULD run two 1000 watt strapable mono blocks at 1-ohm, but that just seems like more of a bother than it's worth. I used to to run two SAE-1000D's strapped and I'm much happier now running a single 3000D, even though I'm putting out less overall power.

2001 Chevy Blazer

(2) SAZ-3000Ds

(2) custom 18" Madmax subs in a second row wall

Rockford 600-4

Pioneer PRS components

Pioneer P800PRS deck

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or should i get the 4000 crossfire like the guy a few above me said? if it puts out 4000 at 2 ohms, then wouldn't i be getting 1000 to each? or should i still go with the 2 amps?

only if you tuned the amp to put out that much power. tuning lower will let the amp run cooler since it wont be pushed so hard. but then you'd have a ton of power left on hand which is good for upgrades...but atm might be heavier on your pocket (not sure on pricing exactly). i'd do the kicker, or strap amps. either or...whichever is cheaper. you'll get close to the same outcome basically either way

 

 

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so kicker seems to be a good brand for amps. which type of kicker amp should i go for? pricing isn't that big. i just want a good amp to use. and i want to hopefully push the subs to max power. or close to it atleast. around 700W or so is good for me.

1994 Ford F150 reg cab

2 HFX 12's

Audiopipe APSM-1300

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Not every amp is 1-ohm stable, you do know?

Whomever mentioned the Kicker ZX2500 was smart, that amp does rated power at 2-ohms, which is perfect for his application. :) You're looking for an amp that does between 2000-3000 RMS at 2-ohms.

You COULD run two 1000 watt strapable mono blocks at 1-ohm, but that just seems like more of a bother than it's worth. I used to to run two SAE-1000D's strapped and I'm much happier now running a single 3000D, even though I'm putting out less overall power.

Notice I said monoblock.

And like I said again, less box rise with two amps. Maybe more of a hassle, but more worth the effort, and usually less expensive. And they don't have to be strapped.

Need an install? Hit me up.
[email protected]


Got car audio questions? Check here first!
Everything you need to know. =]

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/83029-everything-you-need-to-know/

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