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Torres' Box Tuning Calculator - Updated 8/18


Torres

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Common Port Walls, should that always be set as 1 or only if there is a bend in the slot port? How about when the port don't have a bend, but just about goes to the other side. Set it as 0?

Baffle Thickness, When i go from .75 to 1" the volume don't change, Why is this? Baffle is not included in the Gross volume?

Net volume, Is this the volume i should be looking at for recommended Subwoofer Cubic Feet?

zZZzzz.....Snooze!

click the help button. there's links that describe what 1, 2, and 3 common port walls looks like, regardless of bending. 0 common walls would be a port like in meades setup. common port walls refers to how many walls of the box are used as walls of the port when looking onto the port head on

the reason why baffle thickness doesn't change anything is because the baffle is already taken into consideration as a side of the box, which is set to the wood thickness. any *extra* baffles would take out displacement from gross volume, and would also change depending on thickness.

baffle thickness doesnt change because its not inside the box. i bet your tuning frequency changes slightly. if the port bends you now have two common port walls. and yes on the net

almost. 2 common port walls looks like this:

middleportbox.jpg

So My 16" by 16" by 21" box don't include the Baffle Thickness at all? It would make more sense if it did like one of the older versions of Box Tuning Calculator. But it's all good, I'll just factor in the Thickness of the Baffle so it will come up to the size that it should be, So is that the right way?

you box includes a baffle, but it is taken as a side of the box, regardless of what side you put it on. extra baffles is where it comes into play. which is why i also have the sub up checkbox there because certain setups will have more or less displacement taken out depending on which face the baffle is on. if you have no extra baffles (just a normal 6 sided box) then disregard baffle thickness and tune accordingly

 

 

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you arent counting a L shaped port as two common walls? Even if its using a side of the box and the back wall of the box as a port wall? just want to clarify.

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nope. the common wall box is a deciding factor on how i have it set up to figure port displacement, as certain ports will have different displacements than others given the same surface area, due to more or less wood being used to make that specific port.

if you notice, put in 4 or higher as common walls in the calc. you get a message that takes up all the boxes. you could theoretically have a port that curls around the whole box utilizing all 4 sides to some extent, but 4 common walls (the way i have it set up) is impossible as that'd be a whole side of a box. basically making it a 5 sided box missing one whole side.

look at this port

slotportbox.jpg

this is a port that uses 3 sides. if it bends, it still uses 3 sides of the box as part of the port, not 6. i guess easiest way to say would be if you were standing inside the port at any point, count the walls of the box that act as walls of the port, and that would be what you put in that box. so, in that box above, if you were standing inside the third bend, you would still count 3 sides of the box that acted as part of the port.

i know i probably didn't need to get that in depth with you lol, but i've seen some others with the same mindset about that so i figured i'd explain a little. whenever i finish adding metric in this calc, i'll update my help window with a little more info methinks.

 

 

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ahhh ok. its unique port walls then.

THERE IS NO BUILD LOG!

1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab

Alpine CDA-9887

4 Team Fi 15s

2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0

2 Ampere Audio 150.4

3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets

Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound!

8 XS Power d3400

6 XS power d680

Second Skin

Stinger

Tsunami Wiring

Sky High

A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger.

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

ok idk if someone already posted something about this cuz im too lazy to read this whole thread. but when i try to print from the calculator nothing happens. was there something i was suppose to do before trying to print? im running windows 7 64bit just in case if u needed to know. help!

does the print window come up when you try to print? or does clicking it just result in nothingness?

i dont know how easy or hard this would be to do, but it would be very handy. down where you have desired box volume, it would be very handy, and would speed up the calculation process to have a desired tuning. basicly it could work, you put in all your box demensions and then a desired tuning, and it would pop up with different options for port height, width, and depth, you would select one and it would fill in the corrosponding values in the program. i dunno if you have thought of that, or are working on it, or if you dont like the idea. just thought i would throw that in. it would save lots of time.

the idea of that is nice, and maybe possible to do but the way the program is now is it all centers around one formula. everything entered in points back to the tuning formula. doing a desired frequency would be tricky for lots of reasons. the output to show the dimensions (which could literally be endless) would be too much to show. it'd be better to have surface area output with a port length output. but then when you get into slot ports you have end correction which lowers tuning and depending on port dimensions, tuning may be affected a little or a lot. so then port area and length is not quite as effective. best thing i could imagine would be to have dimensions entered as far as surface area, then enter a desired tuning and check port length that way. but then i'd have to totally dissect the formula and see how to reassess it to make it work. that is more of a possibility, but for now i'm working on updating a few things to upload then i can go from there. so not a totally bogus idea, just needs to be refined to fit :)

 

 

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  • 5 months later...

if the port becomes an L port, the dimensions are taken out because in order to make those cuts fit into a box, it'd need to be much bigger. so until i can figure a way to do such a thing, it will have to remain as N/A

physical port length is the length of the physical part of the port (the wood) while effective port length is the length of the port that the box will see (measured down the middle) which is what you enter in port length.

the .75" in the front is accounted for as port length, which will take your physical port down to 23.25. the 90º turn in the port accounts for 3", which then turns the physical port length down to 20.25". so while the wood should measure out to be 20.25", measure down the middle of the port and you will get 24"

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

I need help designing a port for the enclosure i already have built. The enclosure is for 3 Type R 10" woofers and i would like to be around 35hz somewhere. Im a little bit confused on the port section of the program. I cant seem to get the frequency below 45hz. I would like to have a single port across the bottom of the box if possible. All subs are driven from 1 amp so no need for chambers although i have not ruled it out completely.

box.jpg

The front face of the box is still open because im going to fiberglass it.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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sounds like probably too much port area and/or not enough port length. try starting a topic in the enclosure section with box specs and whatnot, probably get more responses there. i'd like this thread to remain about comments/suggestions/criticism about the calculator please.

 

 

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