loganberry Posted April 6, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2009 what are your dimensions i have room for any thing, i have someone drawing me up my box design once i find out which configuration would be best for me...the box will need to be around 10 cubes after displacement Quote My F-150 Build GET ON THE BANDWAGON what if they tried messing with the amps when the subs werent louder hahah jk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh G. Rection Posted April 6, 2009 Report Share Posted April 6, 2009 can anyone explain to me how subs on passenger and port on driver is generally louder, to be honest i thought it should be the opposite, meter is on passenger side so shouldnt the port be? im not doubting you guys thats how most people do it, but just wondering why i all comes down to quarter wave theory, and phasing. Quote Owner of BigAss Ports Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh G. Rection Posted April 6, 2009 Report Share Posted April 6, 2009 im wanting to do a wall, something easy yet practical, its basically going to be 1 big box, with trim panels around it to help make it airtight and look good, im having problems on deciding a sub/port config, im wanting numbers but im not wanting a burp machine...this is in a daily driver and will be ment to play loud all day and still put up a good numberwhats the best configuration i should do? its in a 2004 f150 ext cab both subs on top behind each headrest port on the bottom port drivers side, subs ontop of eachother passenger port passengers side, subs ontop of eachother driver both subs on bottom side by side, port top not sure! calling all wall guys haha!! im thinking 35hz tuning if you have pictures post them! with this install being in an extended cab truck, you need to be careful with your port area. if you start to get into massive port area, then your tuning will start to be more affected by the enclosure depth than the port length. Quote Owner of BigAss Ports Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kentb Posted April 6, 2009 Report Share Posted April 6, 2009 my suggestion would be to get it reconed to 18's and do a wall! IMO its not worth it to wall 2 15's specially in an ext cab where there are lots of room. Quote New System 2 10" Fi SSD, Sundown 1500d Build I build and design enclosures(cheap price), PM ME Kicker L7 Navigator(plexiglass, fiberglass, aeroport) Build BTL 18" Escalade(plexiglass, battery tray) Build http://www.kentbaudio.com Old System Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loganberry Posted April 6, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2009 my suggestion would be to get it reconed to 18's and do a wall! IMO its not worth it to wall 2 15's specially in an ext cab where there are lots of room. im not doing 18"s im doing 15"s, i have them for now and i like them, its not gonna be a floor to ceiling wall, i got 3 batteries and 2 amps going underneath it...its gonna be pretty much a big box, with trim panels so it looks like a wall Quote My F-150 Build GET ON THE BANDWAGON what if they tried messing with the amps when the subs werent louder hahah jk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loganberry Posted April 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2009 ok, got the design maped out but im stuck between 9 or 10 cubes, not sure which would be better for me, any suggestions? i have plenty of space for either and the port to follow it Quote My F-150 Build GET ON THE BANDWAGON what if they tried messing with the amps when the subs werent louder hahah jk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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