Dale Posted May 19, 2009 Report Posted May 19, 2009 project looks really promising...can't wait for vids
buddlydudly8989 Posted May 19, 2009 Author Report Posted May 19, 2009 thanks guys for all the advice.....i am def going to do another round of edead on everything in the hatch....including the hatch sides n possible the roof....ill see how much balls i have to do that.... ANY ADVICE ON HOW TO TAKE ONE OUT?? i know take all the pannels off n screws but i just wanna know how not to get creases in it and is it easy to make a crease in one??
buddlydudly8989 Posted May 20, 2009 Author Report Posted May 20, 2009 ok guys i really need some help from someone that know what they are doing.........ok some of you say more reinforcement... others have not said anything..... so what should i do... should i put 45s in the rest of the corneers n call it a day or should i do that n add a dowel rod going from side to side..???? I REALLY WOULD LIKE TO GET SOME HELP!!!! thanks...
bobonit Posted May 20, 2009 Report Posted May 20, 2009 I have 1" oak dowels between all sides of the box (top, bottom, front, back, left and right), connected together and reinforced with fiberglass. 97 Maxima SE Bunch of shit going in, check out the build Build Log
Pioneer~Saturn Posted May 20, 2009 Report Posted May 20, 2009 If you still havent gotten the enclosure more supported...head somewhere with woodworking supplies such as WoodCraft etc. and look for some Titebond Instant-Bond...it makes it nice and easy to put some dowels etc. in for support...just put the glue on the support and then spray some activator on the inside of the box where it'll go and press it down for a couple seconds and it'll be bonded there pretty much the strength of a wood glue joint...then you can resin+fiberglass over everything and it should be pretty darn solid Looks great, nice work Team Tupperware <First dual-alternator 'real' Saturn (pre-2002) on the planet>(3) 15" Fi SP4's fed by (2) M3a's strapped @ .66712.75 cubes net @ 25Hz with 200 sq inches of port area (lowz...?)Stock alt position (custom bracket) 225 amp Mechman Roof = steel and fiberglass (u mad?)(2) XS Power D3100's, (2) rhino batts, No battery upfront (for now, smh)4 power+ 4 ground runs of 1/0-gauge to rear"If its been done before...you're doing it wrong" : ) "stfu about scores and float $hit..."
Joeskey Posted May 20, 2009 Report Posted May 20, 2009 Im still tuned into this thread, i want to see more progress so hurry it up lol "never drive faster then your guardian angel flies... good think my guardian angel drives a twin turbo ed beast" "its time has come for those who are different to stand united"
andreg3000 Posted May 21, 2009 Report Posted May 21, 2009 As far as deadening the roof, I did it myself and didn't make any creases, nor had I ever done it before on any car. Step by step is gonna take too long to explain, but basically get access to the rear of the headliner by removing any necessary plastic panels. Then gently pull down and see what is holding it up. On the 2003 I had a metal bar about 12" from the rear held in by a bolt, easy to remove along with some plastic push pins, just take your time and be gentle. Then I dropped the headliner onto the rear seat headrests and then had access to enough roof. I only concentrated on the roof over the trunk and rear seats, basically the major areas of flex (above the speakers). So the headliner was still on at the driver/passenger seats then wedged off as you go towards the rear. It was a tight fit to get my arm in between the headliner and roof toward the front of the truck, but cut your deadener into manageable pieces then makeshift a tool to help lay it smooth. You or others may want to do the entire roof, which is ok, but in my circumstance I didn't feel that it was necessary. On the other hand you have way more hardware then I do. Therefore it might just be better to do first things first, beat it hard and see what it sounds like. Like I said, its really not that bad, just be gently and take your time. It will definitely be worth it in the end. PM me if you need additional help.
buddlydudly8989 Posted May 21, 2009 Author Report Posted May 21, 2009 As far as deadening the roof, I did it myself and didn't make any creases, nor had I ever done it before on any car. Step by step is gonna take too long to explain, but basically get access to the rear of the headliner by removing any necessary plastic panels. Then gently pull down and see what is holding it up. On the 2003 I had a metal bar about 12" from the rear held in by a bolt, easy to remove along with some plastic push pins, just take your time and be gentle. Then I dropped the headliner onto the rear seat headrests and then had access to enough roof. I only concentrated on the roof over the trunk and rear seats, basically the major areas of flex (above the speakers). So the headliner was still on at the driver/passenger seats then wedged off as you go towards the rear. It was a tight fit to get my arm in between the headliner and roof toward the front of the truck, but cut your deadener into manageable pieces then makeshift a tool to help lay it smooth. You or others may want to do the entire roof, which is ok, but in my circumstance I didn't feel that it was necessary. On the other hand you have way more hardware then I do. Therefore it might just be better to do first things first, beat it hard and see what it sounds like. Like I said, its really not that bad, just be gently and take your time. It will definitely be worth it in the end. PM me if you need additional help. ok thanks man.. i am def going to be doing this soon.... hopefully by the end off the weekend ill have it done plus most of the wire ran and my batt box made.
buddlydudly8989 Posted May 21, 2009 Author Report Posted May 21, 2009 yo got a little work done lol..... this was buggin me sooo bad so i finally got it done... ok got this [/img] then ya gotta do all this wire chit...lol.. [/img] then you get to watch jarhead...lol... im so glad i did this.. [/img] more jarhead.. [/img]
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.