Car Keeps Dieing With System Hooked Up

[hotshot27]

Is it the Same amp as before when you started having this problem maybe some thing with amp when out

And dose it do it with the deck off but amp hooked up

(here comes the flaming)

Factory radio with LOC. and yes it does it with the radio off.

Exact same amp and wiring as before. the only difference is i am using less current.

if i can get a hold of my friends amp for a few hours, he has a 600 rms that would simulate mine pretty well, i will try it as well.

I checked for drain and i was getting about 3-5 milliamps drain, prolly from my alarm.

i will also use some scrap wire and use it to make sure the wiring doesnt have a short.

[tacomabanga1986]

i kno ppl dont like em but run atleast a 1f cap, i had a ma audio hk400w amp runnin 2 audiobahn 12's in my geo n with a amp of 30amp fuseing and a 75amp alt my car still shut off, i hooked up my cap n problem solved, big three doesnt relly help current flow to the amp just to front battery, kinda why other ppl run 2nd batterys n what knot, somethin has to give sufficent power to sub amp somewere, n a cap can hold up to around 1000w, i ran my 1f cap in my system befor i got my other battery n i got little to hardly any light dimming but i was runnin @ 1ohm on a 1ohm stable amp

but seriously caps do work for smaller systems of around 1000w or less, its just like runnin a lil battery n is worth the money, this has solved my problem many times, and i still have one in my geo, but its old n ima get a spl one off here shortly, caps aint bullshit like other ppl say they are, they do work, just not for around a 12kw ground pounder, and big three does help to, i done it on my geo n went from 13.0v to 14.6v at idle, and unless ur runnin stock stereo run ur remote wire off ur headunit instead of car acc wire, helps alot to

and on ur car wantin to cut off, the idle might be to low, i gotta addjust the idle speed on my geo here shortly cause it wants to cut off but i press the gas just the little bit n it runs fine

[tacomabanga1986]

and what guage wire u runnin? for that 900w amp ied atleast run 4guage, i wouldn't try to run more than 400w on 8guage unless its a mids n highs amp, trust me over kill works out to be more efficent in the long run than underkill

[hotshot27]

and what guage wire u runnin? for that 900w amp ied atleast run 4guage, i wouldn't try to run more than 400w on 8guage unless its a mids n highs amp, trust me over kill works out to be more efficent in the long run than underkill

I acually had a 1.5 farad cap on it before, the dieing did become more frequent after i took the cap out of the system. But i didnt think the cap was helping that much(atleast with the light dimming). I am running 4ga, about 18-20 feet of it. ground is about 3 ft long.

I'm gonna go swith the remote wire to the power antenna (my car doesnt have one, but the wiring is there)

and my wiring tested good, used some short 4 ga and it did the same thing.

[Guest KyleCannon]

To see if it's your alt... how about removing the pos wire from the alt and unplugging the plug on the alt... then start your car and see if it starts with no problems.... you wont be charging your batteries but this will let you know if it's your alt thats making your car get all sluggy.

[newls1]

To see if it's your alt... how about removing the pos wire from the alt and unplugging the plug on the alt... then start your car and see if it starts with no problems.... you wont be charging your batteries but this will let you know if it's your alt thats making your car get all sluggy.

an alt will not stop a car from starting....period. So even if he un-plugs the alt, and removes the B+ cable from it, all that is doing is running the car on batt power only. Never remove the B+ cable while the car is running as you run the risk of either burning up the alt, or the ECM. everyone is going to have an opinion as to what HE/SHE thinks may be the issue. Spend the 75-100$ (What techs charge per hour of labor) and have a QUALITY TECH go over what your issue is with a fine tooth comb, and you will have it fixed in no time. Are you in the GA area, if so hit me up, I will help you for free. **EDIT** What I noticed with my 2000 camaro was that if my charging voltage (Running) dropped below 11.9v, the fuel pump kicks off, and the car WILL DIE OUT OF COURSE. It does this to prevent a LEAN condition which can cause several issues as we all know. Perhaps your ECM/PCM/ powertrain module is programmed something similar to this. Makes sense if you think about it.

Edited May 23, 2009 by newls1

[devsmazduh]

To see if it's your alt... how about removing the pos wire from the alt and unplugging the plug on the alt... then start your car and see if it starts with no problems.... you wont be charging your batteries but this will let you know if it's your alt thats making your car get all sluggy.

NEVER DISCONNECT THE ALTERNATOR WHILE THE VEHICLE IS RUNNING!!

like newls1 said. you can send a voltage spike throughout the system and ruin your alternator or ECM. when i was in driving school, they tried to tell me thats how you do it...dont listen to driving school teachers...lol

[newls1]

he isnt telling the guy to remove the B+ while the car is running bro, he was telling him to do it from a OFF position. I was just going more in detail......

[hotshot27]

an alt will not stop a car from starting....period. So even if he un-plugs the alt, and removes the B+ cable from it, all that is doing is running the car on batt power only. Never remove the B+ cable while the car is running as you run the risk of either burning up the alt, or the ECM. everyone is going to have an opinion as to what HE/SHE thinks may be the issue. Spend the 75-100$ (What techs charge per hour of labor) and have a QUALITY TECH go over what your issue is with a fine tooth comb, and you will have it fixed in no time. Are you in the GA area, if so hit me up, I will help you for free. **EDIT** What I noticed with my 2000 camaro was that if my charging voltage (Running) dropped below 11.9v, the fuel pump kicks off, and the car WILL DIE OUT OF COURSE. It does this to prevent a LEAN condition which can cause several issues as we all know. Perhaps your ECM/PCM/ powertrain module is programmed something similar to this. Makes sense if you think about it.

I have had a Ford service dealership take a look at it ($80 an hour for an hour and a half) his conclusion was that the alternator wasnt big enough and it was bogging it down. but he also said he can't be certain because the alt was testing fine for 80+ amps of current draw.

The local mechanic i took it to said it had to be something electrical but he couldnt pinpoint it. he didnt charge me since he couldnt find a problem.

My alternator was "rebuilt" by a local shop. besides replacing the core, what else on the alt could be bad?

EDIT: not in GA, stuck in Oklahoma. Thanks though

Edited May 23, 2009 by hotshot27

[devsmazduh]

he isnt telling the guy to remove the B+ while the car is running bro, he was telling him to do it from a OFF position. I was just going more in detail......

ohhh my bad...