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Car Keeps Dieing With System Hooked Up


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I have a 2001 Ford Taurus. About a year ago i started having problems with my car starting. it would turn over fine, but then i would have to rev the engine to keep it alive. The battery never died, but the engine would shudder and cut off. Long story short, it was diagnosed to be faulty electrical (by autozone and a local mechanic). Since then i have replaced the alternator and battery, as well as taking out my system (700w rms amp, drawing about 60 amps of current). car has worked fine for the past year. I recently wanted to add a little 8" sub to my stock system, but when i hooked everything up, i had the same problem. If i unplug the fuse in the engine bay, the problem stops. I have tried relocating the ground wire, with same results. I am truly stumped as to what could be causing this. Surely my brand new battery (700cca) and alternator (rated for 105 amps) can handle this small powered system.

Any ideas? i can prvide more info if needed, i just dont know what all is relevant to this.

Thanks for reading, i just really need help getting a little thump back in the trunk.

Current Setup:

Factory HU with LOC

mids/highs-Insignia components

Sub- E8 in bass tube

Amp- sae-1200d

Show Setup:

HU-Sony MEX-1HD (brings massive respect for sony)

fronts - Infinity Kappa perfect comps

rears- Infinity Kappa coax

mid/high amp - Autotek 5600

Subs - 2 RE SE 15's

Sub Amps - 2xSAE-1200D

Box - 5cubes sealed

Wire- Lots of Knu 1/0

SECOND SKIN

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does the amp turn off when the car is off?

yep, atleast all the lights go off on the amp. i just tested the remote wire and it gives 13 volts with ignition on, 0 with ignition off.

Current Setup:

Factory HU with LOC

mids/highs-Insignia components

Sub- E8 in bass tube

Amp- sae-1200d

Show Setup:

HU-Sony MEX-1HD (brings massive respect for sony)

fronts - Infinity Kappa perfect comps

rears- Infinity Kappa coax

mid/high amp - Autotek 5600

Subs - 2 RE SE 15's

Sub Amps - 2xSAE-1200D

Box - 5cubes sealed

Wire- Lots of Knu 1/0

SECOND SKIN

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hmm, idk, my lil brothers car has/had (we still have the car, but no1 uses it) the same problem. idk, i alway though all he had to do is upgrade the electrical (batt and alt) and it would stop. since you did this already, idk what to say.

you try doing the big 3 yet to help w/ current flow?

CURRENTLY UNDER RE-CONSTRUCTION

2008 Hyundai Sonata

Team T3 Audio

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Team SMD (Street Motivated Devastation)

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hmm, idk, my lil brothers car has/had (we still have the car, but no1 uses it) the same problem. idk, i alway though all he had to do is upgrade the electrical (batt and alt) and it would stop. since you did this already, idk what to say.

you try doing the big 3 yet to help w/ current flow?

I have not done big three yet. i'm only drawing about 30 amps of current with the most recent setup (according to a clamp meter) so i dont think current flow is the problem. plus I ran the old system for about 6 months before it started doing this, which makes me think something has gone out or has been damaged. I just dont want to keep replacing random parts if i can locate the real source. I will try big 3 tho, can't hurt.

Any other ideas? i have all day tomm to mess with it, just limited on cash to do large fixes.

Current Setup:

Factory HU with LOC

mids/highs-Insignia components

Sub- E8 in bass tube

Amp- sae-1200d

Show Setup:

HU-Sony MEX-1HD (brings massive respect for sony)

fronts - Infinity Kappa perfect comps

rears- Infinity Kappa coax

mid/high amp - Autotek 5600

Subs - 2 RE SE 15's

Sub Amps - 2xSAE-1200D

Box - 5cubes sealed

Wire- Lots of Knu 1/0

SECOND SKIN

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oh god...it could be anything..depending on how you have it wired. try doing what dude above me said, like check at the firewall where your power goes thru it. if you cant find it, get a DMM and disconnect the negative batt cable with the DMM on amerage. connect it in series to the neg. batter terminal, and youll see what your parasitic drain is. anything over 50mili-amps will drain your battery. now have someone watch the meter as you start pulling fuses. if it goes down once you pull a fuse, its something in that circuit. get a schemtic and see whats all included in the circuit. and find that fucker.

hope that helped you out a bit...drains are the worse..

Edited by devsmazduh

ill cut out yo eyelids and give ya nothin but sleeping pills...

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i will check in a few minutes for a short and for the drain on the battery. i dont think it is a drain though because it will restart fine after i disconnect the audio system. and the belt has an automatic tensioner, but i have no clue if those go bad or not.

i will mess with it some more today and post my findings later this afternoon.

thanks for the help thus far

Current Setup:

Factory HU with LOC

mids/highs-Insignia components

Sub- E8 in bass tube

Amp- sae-1200d

Show Setup:

HU-Sony MEX-1HD (brings massive respect for sony)

fronts - Infinity Kappa perfect comps

rears- Infinity Kappa coax

mid/high amp - Autotek 5600

Subs - 2 RE SE 15's

Sub Amps - 2xSAE-1200D

Box - 5cubes sealed

Wire- Lots of Knu 1/0

SECOND SKIN

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Is it the Same amp as before when you started having this problem maybe some thing with amp when out

And dose it do it with the deck off but amp hooked up

new system in the works

(3) DC lvl 4xls 15's (one of three are here)

(2) DD z1 (done)

old kenwood four ch

4 runs of 2/0 (done)

? 200 amp alt may two ??

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