Jump to content

bunch of small batteries?


Recommended Posts

Honestly dont see these helping too much, even if you use 12..

Maybe if you have some puny 1000 watt amp, you notice something..

Your method of connection the batteries will be kinda interesting, since you cant bolt a 0 gauge ring terminal to them.

The low 8.5 amp per hour rating is not to great either versus something like a hc2400, or a d3100 that is around 120ah.

Even tho they are kind of smaller after you throw 10-12 batteries in your ride, its going to take up a tad of room i think

If anything I see them maybe working half way decent for a 3 second burp.

Also dont forget that every battery you connect to your alt demands ruffly 10 amps for charging. So 12 of these batteries may require 120 amps of alternator power to charge alone (maybe a little less being a tiny battery).

Its worth a shot I guess, but I wouldnt expect nothing much to say the least, and a nice big d3100 would out perform and out last these.

Edit:

Picture of said batteries. Looks like they get connected via the same terminals you would use to connect some door speakers.

Posted Image

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Picture of said batteries. Looks like they get connected via the same terminals you would use to connect some door speakers.

Buss Bars :spiteful:

-Drew

detail.gifI am a United States Military Arts and Crafts Professional. Sand it off, Paint it on. detail.gif

uhoh_45 said:
dont be a pussy P give the jeep to drew
Link to comment
Share on other sites

if i get 10 of these in, ill have 85ah, plus the batcap 800, ill have 105ah. so now i have the capacity of a kinetik 2000.

you cant say each batt will draw 10 amps. i may be wrong but that sounds retarded to me. so if they are fully charged, somehow they still take 10amps? they cant draw more from my alt than my amps taking out of them.

connecting them is a concern but i think ill be ok... hope.

please remember the only 2 reasons im doing this. they are free and i have no job. i would LOVE to put another G31 in here but i dont have any money. if this is a total failure i can just throw them away, no big deal. at least itll give me something to do with all this free time.

If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood.

Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/

Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build

Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Buss Bars :spiteful:

-Drew

hheeeyyy.... i didnt think about that.... i could make that work. i have metal strips in the shop. more free stuff! it all works!

im thinking i can bend the tabs up, cut slits in the bus bar and solder them onto the terminals...

If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood.

Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/

Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build

Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

you cant say each batt will draw 10 amps. i may be wrong but that sounds retarded to me. so if they are fully charged, somehow they still take 10amps? they cant draw more from my alt than my amps taking out of them.

Well then Im retarded and so is this guy that is a Rockford Fosgate Engineer that goes by the name of SNAFU..

I also want to say that he is one of meades close friends too.. This guy aint too dumb in any manor..

I put his words in bold for you..

Holy Cow there's a bunch of mis-information in this thread about caps. Caps work - period. But how? Simple . . . capacitors do TWO things:

1. Store charge

2. Oppose changes in voltage

Now, both of those things sound mighty nice to me. To understand how a cap benefits a car audio system, one has to first understand that there are TWO separate voltage plateaus available in an automobile:

1. Running - With the alternator charging, voltages will typically be from 13.8 to 14.4 VDC

2. Not running - With the alternator IDLE, voltages will typically be from 12.0 to 12.6 VDC

I'll take the higher of the two any day. For UNREGULATED amps, this allows them to draw MORE current therby making more power. For REGULATED amps, this allows them to draw LESS current to make their rated power. Either way, it's a WIN for you. So, how do we ensure the higher of the two?

Again, simple. With the vehicle running, consider the DELTA between what the alternator can make and what the nominal voltage the batteries can provide is. For this example, lets assume 14.4 VDC - 12.6 VDC = 1.8 VDC. When we exceed the current output capability of the alternator, it's voltage output is compromised. In some cases, heavy demands of amplifiers can far exceed the current capability of the alternator, leaving us with only the reserve of current within the battery. But, car batteries weren't intended to power amplifiers . . . they were intended to start cars [battery = Load with vehicle running.] A really fresh car battery can do this for a while, but given that we're exceeding the output capability of the alternator, it's charge isn't getting replenished quickly enough - need about 13.0 VDC minimum to allow charge to flow back into the battery.

A properly sized capacitor will change the rules. With the vehicle running, it stores charge at the higher voltage plateau - 14.4 Volts. As the amplifiers demand current, it will flow from the place of least resistance . . . Ohm's Law tells us that happens to be the place with the highest voltage. That will be in order:

1. The capacitor (closest)

2. The alternator

3. The battery

Ideally, you've selected the correct size capacitor for your system's needs. And . . . that "30F" cap that sells for $59 in a blue velvet box with chrome and a big blue LED readout is just a glorified volt meter These devices have ZERO benefit. There is a reason why quality capacitors cost money, and ours are no exception. These are the facts:

1. A 1 Farad capacitor can store and release 72 Joules (watt*second) of energy at 12 Volts.

2. Said capacitor can charge and discharge hundreds of times faster than an automitive battery of any kind.

3. Capacitors present nearly no load to a properly set up charging system.

4. Automotive batteries require 7 to 10 amps of current EACH to allow charge to flow into them.

5. Capacitors work GREAT for every day street systems.

6. The benefits or capacitors are negated in SPL competitions.

For best results, I recommend locating capacitors within a foot of the amplifier - as in, no more than 12 inches of wire between the capacitor and the amplifier. The further away from the amp they are, the less of a benefit they offer.

I have used them my systems for a very long time . . . since about 1986.

Enjoy!

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well then Im retarded and so is this guy that is a Rockford Fosgate Engineer that goes by the name of SNAFU..

I also want to say that he is one of meades close friends too.. This guy aint too dumb in any manor..

I put his words in bold for you..

Enjoy!

lol sorry man, wasnt trying to offend you. but you actually answered this. it says "automotive" batteries. these are not automotive batts. could be a very differant story.

If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood.

Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/

Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build

Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1848 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
×
×
  • Create New...