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Another Tahoe Build 18KW (RF) - 4 18"(FI BTL)


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From owning one of this current hungry t40001bd amps.. id get atleast 2 d3100 per amp.. otherwise like u said.. you can only play it soo long and then your battery is gunna fall on its face.. Very nice build and craftsmanship so far tho :good:

Thanks. I here yea on the bats. I know I WILL have to add more, but it will have to wait until 1st of the year. I will monitor very closely the Vs and As and make sure the amps are running OK.

Believe me, I repaired audio equipment for many years and OHMS law applies; When V goes down and R stays the same, I goes up. When I goes up, more heat.

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oh man. its getting sexier. im follow the rest for sure (and taking notes) :ph34r:

edit: questions. its seems like your buss bars are screwed to a piece of mdf here(or some other type of wood).

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are the screws that are holding down the bars touching the frame of the car? and is that like rubber to separate the bars from the wood?

Team Bass-Hz

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Looks great bro, definitely gonna be keeping an eye on the finished product... Any worries about the vibrations from mounting the amps above the box, like u have planned?? Would hate to see issues with the subs firing only a couple inches below and the flexing on the back part of the roof.

1998 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer... New setup, old ride... QX56 is staying stock til I get loud... It's only getting walled off if I don't meet my goal @ SBN.

Pioneer AVIC-N2

(12) 12" RE SXs old model.... (3) AB VFL 500.1 @ 1ohm each

Dual 300amp Ohio Gen alts.... (10) Northstar NSB-125s

26ft3 @ 33hz w/ a ton of port area

156.5 @ 40hz @ dash, Db Drag style / 153.2 Bassrace

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oh man. its getting sexier. im follow the rest for sure (and taking notes) :ph34r:

edit: questions. its seems like your buss bars are screwed to a piece of mdf here(or some other type of wood).

Posted Image

are the screws that are holding down the bars touching the frame of the car? and is that like rubber to separate the bars from the wood?

The MDF is mounted to the inside part of the vehicle. The red barrels are isolation sections. This allows the bars to stick out about 2 1/2 inches from the panel. Also allows you to get a wrench behind to secure the stainless steel bolts. Also, allows for additional cables to be mounted on the back side, which is where the additional battery cables will go.

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Looks great bro, definitely gonna be keeping an eye on the finished product... Any worries about the vibrations from mounting the amps above the box, like u have planned?? Would hate to see issues with the subs firing only a couple inches below and the flexing on the back part of the roof.

This was a risky move, yes. All of the T4Ks are mounted using T bolts, nuts, washer, and liquid bolt seal. I also had to drill 1 additional hole in the ones mounted upside down. This gives me a total of 5 mounting spots. I am perodically checking the bolts to see if they are loosening.

So far so good. I can nail the volume and the back doesn't move. The rest of the vehicle, well, http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/public/style_emoticons/default/hairtrick.gif

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yeah I was gonna say the roof rack looks dangerous! Would never be something I do lol my shit would fall straight through my subwoofer.... I can see it now "ahhhhhh fuck my sub has been violated!!!"

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this is a NICE looking build! definitley looking good. and very nice craftsmanship all around. i have thought about doing my amps similar to yours, but decided to keep my windows. i wanna see some vids of this in action

 

 

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