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u dont need it...i kind of wish jacob gets rid of that and the bass boost totally....kuz i notice some folks use it and they wonder why there subs are frying...lol....

80

hmm get rid of the bass boost remote thingy and bass boost and add more capacitors on the board in its place...hmmm not a bad idea

...ive wanted both gone since day one ...but you can't ,i see ppl all the time freaking out about the remote gain knob<always asking does it have the BASS knob with it ...LOLZ> ...i havent and wont use them in my set ups ,but thats just me ... Edited by Team Nemesis-DJ
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...ive wanted both gone since day one ...but you can't ,i see ppl all the time freaking out about the remote gain knob<always asking does it have the BASS knob with it ...LOLZ> ...i havent and wont use them in my set ups ,but thats just me ...

please tell me you guys read my follow up... the remote helps a lot in bass race or if i want to go from max spl or turn it down for a little more SQ or when my parents are in the car so they dont bitch at me.

i agree about not needing the bass boost. i dont have a use for it either. but this isnt about "what you like/dont like about the amp".

If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood.

Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/

Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build

Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people.

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don't use it!

tests have been done and you get less output when it is plugged in.

on the 3000d you get about 500-700 watts less

Where did these results come from?

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thats crazy how much power you lose

Vehicle: 1995 Impala SSHead Unit: Pioneer AVH-P4400BHMids And Highs: (still deciding)Batteries: 1 Deka Group 34

Time to make a race car.My Build Log: Solo X 12"http://www.stevemead...don15zzz-build/My Build Log: DC lvl 4 xl 15"http://www.stevemead...don15zzz-build-My Wall Build Log: 4 Lanzar 15's/ 3k+ RMShttp://www.stevemead...t-by-techforce/My Feedback:http://www.stevemead...1

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or you can also get a gain knob that you could wire it from your RCA's..

something like this..i think its better.im have one been using it for the past 2 years and still works great..

http://www.subthump.com/images/pac/lc1.jpg

but this remote IS a gain knob. no need for the other remote.

thats crazy how much power you lose

oh my god... did everyone skip over my testing? i found out why they had that power loss.

Edited by skittlesRgood

If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood.

Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/

Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build

Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people.

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1) You don't lose power -- the knob drops some RCA voltage as it has a resistance. Therefore you must adjust the gain up slightly to compensate and power will again be identical.

2) The knob reduces gain from the position it is set at the amplifier -- that is it. It is a variable resistor and can only cut signal.

3) It is NOT A BASS BOOST KNOB.

4) We have been reducing the amount of bass boost on the amps... most now feature a 6 dB bass boost vs. the 18 dB they used to have. Occasionally a boost is useful with ridiculously low output voltage head units where even maxing out the gain won't get you any output.

- Jacob Fuller

- Owner, Sundown Audio

- Sundown Audio on FACEBOOK

- Please DO NOT PM ME -- use my email address -- [email protected]

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thanks jacob. that's exactly what my testing showed me.

If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood.

Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/

Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build

Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people.

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i also notices that if i turn the remote up to say, 8 clicks, i got 73v. but if i turn it DOWN to that same 8 click point i got 78v.

I discovered this years ago playing around on a test bench I had set up before getting into the industry. I made a little variable resistor board wired in line with the RCA cables -- it would reach a point where it was the loudest and then start decreasing again. I can only imagine due to a more ideal impedance match with the source unit.

- Jacob Fuller

- Owner, Sundown Audio

- Sundown Audio on FACEBOOK

- Please DO NOT PM ME -- use my email address -- [email protected]

Banner_468x60.jpg

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yeah. your getting the full amount of power without loosing nothing. like the bass knob that comes with the amp. as you stated.

just set your gains, wire this knob and you wont have any problems such as clipping..just use it when you want some bass or for spl comps etc..

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