merk_master Posted October 21, 2009 Report Share Posted October 21, 2009 (edited) It is a 39 by 16.5 by 17.5 box how does it need braced? also how should it be put together? with screws in the side or what? Edited October 21, 2009 by merk_master Quote hopeful noob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skittlesRgood Posted October 22, 2009 Report Share Posted October 22, 2009 that box really isnt big enough to worry about bracing. its not like the xplods are going to flex a box much. if you do want to brace, a 1.5-2" dowel in the middle of the 39" piece would do you just fine. screws are only for clamping pieces together while the glue drys. yes you leave them in after but you dont need very many as long as you have clamps. Quote If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood. Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/ Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
merk_master Posted October 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2009 Ok i was reading an article that said that i prolly wouldn't need bracing but i was just making sure from you pros. also do i need to predrill the holes when doing the screwing into the board on top? also what is the benifit of using resin in a box? Quote hopeful noob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bunker Posted October 22, 2009 Report Share Posted October 22, 2009 If any of my boxes are over 1cu I brace ever 1ft. Quote J&T DESIGNS M5 4 Audioque 15's copper coils dropping Audiopipe, and picking up DB DRIVE OKUR Powermasters XS POWER Dropping MaxxSonics Pioneer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sanitarium Posted October 22, 2009 Report Share Posted October 22, 2009 you only have to predrill if you're screwing into the edge of a board where it's prone to splitting the wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
merk_master Posted October 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2009 here is my box the side measurements take into consideration the mdf size Quote hopeful noob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Decaf Posted October 23, 2009 Report Share Posted October 23, 2009 im glad u figured out sketchup bro nice design, lolz give the subs as much space between each other as possible i would put the bracing (1"+ dowel rods) front to back right where the lower and upper speaker meet on both sides top to bottom right next to the rods going front to back... screw these together then so side to side with 1 dowel... and screw the dowel to the two vertical dowels going from top to bottom this way the bracing acts like 1 unit instead of 6 bracing points Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skittlesRgood Posted October 23, 2009 Report Share Posted October 23, 2009 Ok i was reading an article that said that i prolly wouldn't need bracing but i was just making sure from you pros.also do i need to predrill the holes when doing the screwing into the board on top? also what is the benifit of using resin in a box? yes, predrill every screw hole. now that i see your design, yes i would brace that. or just do a double baffle. Quote If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood. Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/ Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marlo Stanfield Posted October 23, 2009 Report Share Posted October 23, 2009 W/ those subs and that sized enclosure you won't need any significant bracing. Just predrill, double baffle, and a small dowel right above the port would be more than sufficient. With the face having all 4 woofers + the port being the main reason why a lil bracing would help you out. Quote 1998 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer... New setup, old ride... QX56 is staying stock til I get loud... It's only getting walled off if I don't meet my goal @ SBN. Pioneer AVIC-N2 (12) 12" RE SXs old model.... (3) AB VFL 500.1 @ 1ohm each Dual 300amp Ohio Gen alts.... (10) Northstar NSB-125s 26ft3 @ 33hz w/ a ton of port area 156.5 @ 40hz @ dash, Db Drag style / 153.2 Bassrace Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Decaf Posted October 23, 2009 Report Share Posted October 23, 2009 just because the sub being used is sony doesnt mean u can skimp on adding a few dowel rods, come on brace it proper, dont listen to the others anything over 2cuft i brace the way i suggested, dowel rods are like $1.25 a piece, LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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