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My buddy just got his new system built and installed by a local shop. He has a fully loaded BTL 18 and an AQ2200 pushin it. When i sat in his car it didnt even seem that loud to me. Infact i thought that my system was noticably louder with less half the rms and a little less cone area. The box they built him is absolutely gigantic and he says that they told him it is a t-line. I found this hard to believe because i know how large t-lines can get for even an 8". But anyway they told him that he needed another battery so he said fine and then they told him that you have to have a matching battery upfront. I was kinda suspicious of this but what really got me was the fact they ran 4 gauge from the front battery to the rear battery (one run pos one run neg). They told him they didnt run 0 because he still has a factory alt. They also have no clue what the big 3 is at this shop. Then this is what really confused me, they ran 4 gauge to the amp from the back battery. It just seems weird to me that this system is not rattling my head like it seems it should. Whata you guys think?

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Well I dont think 4 gauge will cover the power a 2200 wants and the box may be to large, so it might as well be free air.

Mostly the power seems to be lacking.

i think i just gave myself a concussion i facepalmed so hard.

and for the 1's that dont like me.....

well, Im still here fuckers. Cant get rid of me that easy.

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First off i plan on doing the Big 3 to atleast give the batteries a chance to charge. And I know for a fact that the amp needs atleast 2 gauge going to it but ill probably just run 0 (pending it fits). The thing im most concerned with is the runs of 4 gauge from front to back.......i honestly dont think its enough to handle charging the rear battery. Would you guys suggest running another set of 4 gauge, switching out for 0 gauge, or possibly using both 4 gauge wires as positive and grounding to the frame? I was quite disappointed with the choice of wiring they chose. Ive seen what this exact setup of amp and sub can do and what is happening in my friends car is not impressive. Another thing, the amp comes with a knob that has a clip light on it. Even when the knob is all the way down, the light still illuminates when the sub hits.

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do the big three as you planed then run 1/0 to the battery in the back ground the battery in back to the frame and the battery up front to the same side of the frame as the battery in back if the amp doesnt have 1/0 inputs for power and ground just stick with the 4 guage

Teamflexissueslong.jpg

06 chrysler 300C Hemi

one mmatts dreadnaut 15 powered by a planet audio vx 2200d

fosgate p200 running planet audio 8" midbass drivers and super compression tweeters

stock battery and a stinger spv44

Irragi 300 amp alternator

big 3 1/0

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/55075-system-in-my-300c/page__view__findpost__p__763656__fromsearch__1

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dude that AQ does have 1/0 gauge inputs.Your running to small of wire for that amp and maybe its wired wrong too the subwoofer is.is it 2 ohms or 1 ohm? pics would help cause that BTL may not too too good in a Tline too i think certain subs with there FS has to match it or sumthing im not too good with t lines.They didnt run 0 gauge casue there retarted im sorry but DAMN all they did was just make your friend just pay for shit he may have not needed.

That's why they don't deliver.

Yer ass better go sit along the side of the road and wait.

You can't expect them to travel up some dirt road in a hick / back woods town. Thats how horror movies start :D

I explain things very simply and use analogies in terms of Pickles, and grape drink, pool noodles and jackhammers...if you can't put 2 and 2 together there man, There simply is not much more I can do.

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I made sure my buddy ordered a dual 2 and i assume they wired it to 1 ohm. If they wired it to 4 they should not be allowed to work on cars again. They charged him 1300 bucks for the box, 2 batteries, the wiring, and the labor. I figured i couldve done it for less than 600 but im at college now and dont have the time.

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I made sure my buddy ordered a dual 2 and i assume they wired it to 1 ohm. If they wired it to 4 they should not be allowed to work on cars again. They charged him 1300 bucks for the box, 2 batteries, the wiring, and the labor. I figured i couldve done it for less than 600 but im at college now and dont have the time.

this is why you dont get shit installed at shops. 1, 90% of them rip you off beyond belief (theres good guys out there), and 2, if they cant make an 18" BTL loud, they have to go out of business.

my 2 cents

-Kranny

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Hmm internet install warriors are half the reason the industry is going down the toilet.

The other half the reason is dodgy shops out to make a quick buck. But many shops can't afford good installers because the guys who used to come in and pay the big bucks for real custom work are all turning into internet DIY guys... and the internet DIY guys are doing it themselves because the installers in the shops are declining in quality! It's a vicious cycle :(

Why don't some of you go and help out your local decent shop by working some hours on the side for them at a discount rate... if a few people did that we might start to see a bit of growth in the industry and I'm sure the shop will look after you too ;)

goodgrammarbc7.gif

10.x volts fo' life!

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