May be a stupid Question But.........

[Crump]

dont know how to use a soldering iron?

I do, im soldering the ring terminals, dont feel like helping then dont post please, just trying to find the answer.

[skittlesRgood]

I do, im soldering the ring terminals, dont feel like helping then dont post please, just trying to find the answer.

lol i am helping. just use the soldering iron to connect 2 wires into 1. run that one wire out of the box and into your amp. now you dont have to be worried about burning carpet. i thought it was good advice.

[Brianrj90]

I would try to buy some copper or aluminum bolts if you can find them. Copper is about 60 times more conductive than stainless steel if I did the math right.

[audiofanaticz]

I would try to buy some copper or aluminum bolts if you can find them. Copper is about 60 times more conductive than stainless steel if I did the math right.

The little bit is not going to matter at all, you can literately take your dmm directly to the speaker coil and test the ohms, then wire it up thru the bolts and wire, and see no change in ohms.

There is not that much current going thru the bolts, I mean there is, but there is no heat so you dont have to worry about the carpet catching on fire.

Stainless steel is the correct bolts/nuts/washers to use because it does not corrode like regular bolts or even copper (tho copper is a better conductor it does corrode and it costs a lot more) Not to mention finding said things may get kinda hard locally unless you order from the internet.

Again on your impedance rise question, no this shouldnt effect it one bit as long as everything is tight and secure. Its no different really then using a speaker cup with push terminals or banana style plugs. You will be fine. Most your impedance rise will be box rise, and maybe if you run to small of a gauge of speaker wire and have it really long (longer then needed! Like 20feet of 16 gauge wire to hook the subs up when you only need 2feet). But be sure to at least use a quality 12 or 10 gauge speaker wire.

Hope that answers everything for you!

Edit: stay away from aluminum bolts just as I said above they will corrode!!

Edited October 26, 2009 by Bangin Caddy

[Crump]

The little bit is not going to matter at all, you can literately take your dmm directly to the speaker coil and test the ohms, then wire it up thru the bolts and wire, and see no change in ohms.

There is not that much current going thru the bolts, I mean there is, but there is no heat so you dont have to worry about the carpet catching on fire.

Stainless steel is the correct bolts/nuts/washers to use because it does not corrode like regular bolts or even copper (tho copper is a better conductor it does corrode and it costs a lot more) Not to mention finding said things may get kinda hard locally unless you order from the internet.

Again on your impedance rise question, no this shouldnt effect it one bit as long as everything is tight and secure. Its no different really then using a speaker cup with push terminals or banana style plugs. You will be fine. Most your impedance rise will be box rise, and maybe if you run to small of a gauge of speaker wire and have it really long (longer then needed! Like 20feet of 16 gauge wire to hook the subs up when you only need 2feet). But be sure to at least use a quality 12 or 10 gauge speaker wire.

Hope that answers everything for you!

Edit: stay away from aluminum bolts just as I said above they will corrode!!

Thank you very much answered all my ?'s, Ill be using 8 gauge for speaker wire, The subs are AQ HD's, and I have never wired a sub with direct connects. Any Tips on connecting the 2 wires together or some 8 gauge coupler type deal?

[skittlesRgood]

id say to solder them but i dont want you to yell at me again.

[Crump]

id say to solder them but i dont want you to yell at me again.

Sry, bro I didnt mean to come off as a dick.

I was thinking of these, but for 8 gauge

http://www.darvex.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Scr...;Category_Code=

[audiofanaticz]

id say to solder them but i dont want you to yell at me again.

Lol

Sry, bro I didnt mean to come off as a dick.

I was thinking of these, but for 8 gauge

http://www.darvex.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Scr...;Category_Code=

You could use those, however I am against soldering or crimping the direct connects. I run DDs and have the same setup. I use to solder/crimp them, but now I just use a large wire nut (something you would use in house electrical, I twist them on tight, and then tape the hell out the wires. A copper wire on copper wire twisted tight and then locked in place with a wire nut is a great connection, solder wont help reduce anything but keep the wires secure.

Reasoning behind this is because if you cut, strip, solder/crimp. Then you change designs or rewire for a lower impedance or any other reason, your going to cut, strip, solder/crimp again, and over and over. You will tend to lose wire over time, and your direct connects will get shorter and shorter...

The terminals you linked in darvex will work too, but make sure you tape them up really good afterwords with electrical tape otherwise if they bump into each other they will cause a short.

[Crump]

You talking about this?

http://www.inspect-ny.com/electric/Twist_o...tors029-DFs.jpg

[audiofanaticz]

You talking about this?

http://www.inspect-ny.com/electric/Twist_o...tors029-DFs.jpg

yup

just make sure you get big enough ones. you can get them at a hardware store pretty cheap and then youll be sure to get the right size.