dirtboi22 Posted November 11, 2009 Report Share Posted November 11, 2009 hey guys i was just wondering how hard it is to do a blow through, and if you would recommend that i do it or if i should have a shop do it? I mean ive built lots of boxes before and many installs. but im not sure on this... if you dont think i should do it how much roughly would it cost to do a blow through box that is 8 cubes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98crewcab Posted November 11, 2009 Report Share Posted November 11, 2009 hey guys i was just wondering how hard it is to do a blow through, and if you would recommend that i do it or if i should have a shop do it? I mean ive built lots of boxes before and many installs. but im not sure on this... if you dont think i should do it how much roughly would it cost to do a blow through box that is 8 cubes? cake walk. http://www.trucknvans.com/CRL-Slider-to-Sl...-p/ed5381rl.htm above is where you can get the boot to seal it. measure 10 times, then cut. commit to it, once you do it, you will have a hole in your truck for good. but I absolutely love the room I kept in my cab considering I have 4 12's slammin back there. If you have some common sence, a few tools, and arent scared, I say git er done. You can do it!!!! lol I cut my hole in the cab half an inch bigger all around to make up for movement being that I bolted the box to the bed and frame. this gives the flexibility you will need. keep lots of silicone handy. the more you use, the smaller chance in leaks. drop a bead in the seal channels before you snug up to the sheet metal. and be liberal with it around the outside of the seal as well. if you are not using a tono? cover, fiberglass your box to water proof it, then seal the hell out of it everywhere it meets up to the sheet metal in the bed. you want to keep it from going in between and going through the seal to your cab.........cant think of anything else. any questions, feel free to ask. Quote 06 2500hd, 6.0L, 4l80e, 4wd, (muah work truck) 7" BDS HC lift kit (5) 37x13.5R18 Toyo Open Country M/Ts (5) 18x10 Moto Metal MO962 tablet in lieu of deck blue tooth interconnect to soundstream eq (for volume control and bass control) 4 Alpine type r 10's 6 cubes net, 80sqin's port, tuned to 33hz 2 brutus brx5000.5's 2 pairs 3" polk audio for a pillars 4 pairs polk audio 6.5 comps 1 pair 8" polk audio for mids 2 xspower d3400 batteries.....learning alot from meade and his circle of some of the baddest installers ive seen- thanks guys, for not being so cocky and posting the way it should be done!P.S. Thanks Steve....for the demo!!!! loud as fauk! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtboi22 Posted November 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2009 cake walk. http://www.trucknvans.com/CRL-Slider-to-Sl...-p/ed5381rl.htm above is where you can get the boot to seal it. measure 10 times, then cut. commit to it, once you do it, you will have a hole in your truck for good. but I absolutely love the room I kept in my cab considering I have 4 12's slammin back there. If you have some common sence, a few tools, and arent scared, I say git er done. You can do it!!!! lol I cut my hole in the cab half an inch bigger all around to make up for movement being that I bolted the box to the bed and frame. this gives the flexibility you will need. keep lots of silicone handy. the more you use, the smaller chance in leaks. drop a bead in the seal channels before you snug up to the sheet metal. and be liberal with it around the outside of the seal as well. if you are not using a tono? cover, fiberglass your box to water proof it, then seal the hell out of it everywhere it meets up to the sheet metal in the bed. you want to keep it from going in between and going through the seal to your cab.........cant think of anything else. any questions, feel free to ask. man thanks that was nice to hear! I appreciate your input alot. Its a single cab s-10 so its porbly what i will go with, unless i can put 2 bucket seats and have room to put a 6-8 cube box in between.. which i doubt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sanitarium Posted November 12, 2009 Report Share Posted November 12, 2009 man thanks that was nice to hear! I appreciate your input alot.Its a single cab s-10 so its porbly what i will go with, unless i can put 2 bucket seats and have room to put a 6-8 cube box in between.. which i doubt. I had a 2.5 cube box sitting around that fit between the buckets in my silverado nicely.. but even at 2.5 cubes it was a pain to reach the stereo and i had to jack my arm way up to put my elbow on it. Just do the blow-through, you'll be happy you did and will get a lot of bwildered looks from people who don't know anything about such things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtboi22 Posted November 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2009 I had a 2.5 cube box sitting around that fit between the buckets in my silverado nicely.. but even at 2.5 cubes it was a pain to reach the stereo and i had to jack my arm way up to put my elbow on it.Just do the blow-through, you'll be happy you did and will get a lot of bwildered looks from people who don't know anything about such things. lol yea I think ill go with the blow through... but im goin to do a lil more research on it and i have to get the funding together... just curious though how much would an audio shop charge to do such a thing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ugpbmx Posted November 12, 2009 Report Share Posted November 12, 2009 in my town i was quoted 1600, witch was way to much IMO. so i did it myself. Quote MY TRUCK BUILD - 1976 F-100 Ranger. Fully built 482 big block, 4 DC lvl4 15's in a blowthrough, plenty of custom fabrication. MY HATCH BUILD - 1993 Honda Civic DX Hatchback . Clean daily driver, dropped, subtle customization. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jack Posted November 12, 2009 Report Share Posted November 12, 2009 in my town i was quoted 1600, witch was way to much IMO. so i did it myself.that price is more than adequate if you think about the time invested and materials. dont forget the shops liability for any leak after. 50 to 75 per hour labor etc etc etc. but that is why if you are confident then DIY if not pay some one for their skills. Quote http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...showtopic=29213 "sleeper build" (1) DC AUDIO Level4XL 10 (2) PowermasterD2700 batteries ALL FOR SALE TEAM DC AUDIO TEAM DIRTFLOORPOOR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ugpbmx Posted November 12, 2009 Report Share Posted November 12, 2009 yea that does make sense, but this was just to cut the hole and put the boot in and thats it. i would understand if it was to cut everything, make the box, and get it all together but idk. I would say do it yourself if you think your quoted to much. Quote MY TRUCK BUILD - 1976 F-100 Ranger. Fully built 482 big block, 4 DC lvl4 15's in a blowthrough, plenty of custom fabrication. MY HATCH BUILD - 1993 Honda Civic DX Hatchback . Clean daily driver, dropped, subtle customization. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtboi22 Posted November 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2009 dang 1600!!! i just called our local audio shop and he said he would do it for 700-800. for everything... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rogers Posted November 16, 2009 Report Share Posted November 16, 2009 yeah my local shop wants $600 just for the labor of cutting the hole and putting the boot in... i would still have to pay for the boot Quote http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/79921-rogers-700-dream-car-update-page-17-a-wall/?p=2335774 93 Saturn SC2My system4 SA-15's Walled 2 Cerwin-Vega S2000's 3 Kinetik Hc2000's Dual 200amp alts. you guys done with the peepee touching contest or do I need to end it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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